Sapa is the number one destination to visit now, before tourism explodes. Photo / Getty Images
Sapa is the number one destination to visit now, before tourism explodes. Photo / Getty Images
In the northern mountains of Vietnam, close enough to China to hear the Guzhengs, you’ll find the village of Sapa. As rich in natural beauty as it is in traditional culture, Sapa is a dream destination for travellers seeking adventure and authenticity.
I first visited Sapa in 2009. It was the first stop on our honeymoon and we unwisely made the trip direct from the ceremony. We were horribly hungover and terribly in love. I’ll never forget opening the shutters of our little bedroom window for the first time and looking over a local farmer’s market bustling with the Hmong people, their villages dotting the distant fields. The mist rising up a valley walled by rice paddies and split by a snaking river that shimmers into endless beauty.
Sapa is still an incredible experience with so much to offer, but it’s changing quickly. The population has increased by close to 40 per cent in the years between visits, mostly in service of growing tourism. It has also become a beloved weekend getaway for Hanoian revellers. The new part of town now consists of six-storey karaoke bars, lit up like Vegas and twice as loud.
Yet, the sleepy mountain town of Sapa and its amazing people are still there. You can still connect with their culture and fall in love with their world. But go now: Sapa is a destination you must visit before tourism explodes. Here are four great reasons why.
4 Must-do activities in Sapa
Fansipan Mountain
At 3143 metres, Fansipan is the tallest mountain in Indochina. However, it’s not just the natural marvel peering down at you from above the clouds. It’s home to a true wonder of the modern world.
A short trip from Sapa by car or mountain train takes you to Sun World, a curious little amusement park that tells the legend of Fansipan. That’s just a distraction, though. The main focus is its cable car, a Guinness World Record holder for the highest vertical climb (1410m). The view down the valley is stunning and the rise into the clouds, breathtaking. But that’s just the start.
At the top, you’ll exit on to an incredible structure perched on the roof of the world. Massive statues, pagodas and temples loom out of the mist as you climb hundreds of steep, slippery steps until you’re perched at the very peak itself. It’s impossible to put the scale into words, but if the weather plays ball, it’s an experience akin to the Pyramids of Giza or The Great Wall of China.
It’s incredibly expensive and sudden changes in weather can play havoc, but don’t let that put you off. Even if you’re not able-bodied, at an additional cost you can get a secondary lift to help you up towards the peak.
My recommendation is to give yourself at least three days in Sapa, and to stay flexible as long as possible so you can match your Fansipan expedition to the best weather.
The cable car to Fansipan Mountain is a Guinness World Record holder for the highest vertical climb (1,410 metres). Photo / Getty Images
Lao Chai Village Hike
There are numerous hikes around Sapa, but I can personally vouch for the Sapa to Lao Chai trail. Starting up in the mist, you’ll wind your way through farms, traditional homes, rice paddies, water buffalo, bamboo forests and more to the village some 12km below. Be prepared to take a terabyte of photos as you encounter postcard vistas at every turn.
A key part of the experience is the women of Lao Chai, who hike up early in the morning, then attach themselves to tourists heading back down.
They’re beautiful people who are happy to engage with you. They point out key details you’ll otherwise miss and explain their way of life patiently, language barrier be damned. They made our kids little gifts and helped my wife navigate tricky parts of the track. The expectation is that once you reach the village, you’ll buy something from them and you absolutely should. It’s handcrafted and comes directly from the source.
Once you reach the village, there are a couple of fantastic restaurants that’ll put on a huge spread of delicious local food. You can then explore Lao Chai, before walking on to more villages and a ride back up the hill. (Although a homestay is a wonderful option, too.)
My tip is to find a local guide rather than doing a company tour. As a small group with a local and the Hmong women by your side, you’ll find the less-crowded routes and see more of the local culture.
Eating with the Hmong people is sure to attract plenty of attention. Photo / Chris Stead
Cat Cat Waterfall
Nowhere is the pending explosion of tourism more evident than in the walk to Cat Cat waterfall. In 2009, we walked down little stairs through Cat Cat village, marvelling at the intricate bamboo irrigation and peeking into the daily lives of the Hmong. Now the trail starts with a ticket booth and the first half of the descent is densely packed with shops.
Yet Cat Cat remains a must-see. There’s a punishing, unsigned and not particularly safe 30-minute walk you can take from central Sapa down to the start of the village trail but alternatively, you can use a Grab (the Vietnamese Uber).
The markets are full of exotic sights, smells and meats, with flower gardens, incredible structures and stunning views scattered throughout. At the bottom, you’ll marvel at the watermills and the waterfall from which the village gets its name, then explore inside traditional homes. There’s no end of Insta-worthy shots to be had, and local restaurants overlooking the river.
We were lucky enough to be at Cat Cat while school kids put on a performance of song and dance. The kids loved climbing the tree house and balancing across the water and rocks, too. After a few hours, we caught a Grab all the way back up to the main town.
Cat Cat may have been impacted significantly by tourism, but it's still beautiful. Photo / Chris Stead
The Centre Square
If you can, look for accommodation on the southwestern side of Sapa. Here is where you’ll get the glorious views down the valley, but it’s also away from the party side of town. Instead, it’s dominated by a large square shadowed by a big, old church.
In the mornings, the mist creates an otherworldly atmosphere and watching it slowly lift over a coffee, as the valley beyond reveals itself, is a thrill.
The party end of town may show the hand of tourism but it's still spectacular. Photo / Chris Stead
But at night this area starts to truly bustle with activity. Local village folk line the streets selling food and wares. Kids play on the big steps. People get married in the church. Sports are contested in the park. And there’s a host of places to eat and take in the many lights.
Then if you’ve not had your fill, you can walk up to the lake, where the lights reflect off the still surface, delighting your camera.
Top 5 tips for Sapa, Vietnam
Expect fluctuating temperatures. It can be hot in the middle of the day, cold at night, and start raining at any given moment.
We almost stepped on a snake on two occasions during our hikes, so jandals won’t cut it.
Avoid weekends, which is when revellers from Hanoi come up to party.
A two-night stay in Sapa can be four full days of fun, as the overnight train arrives very early and leaves very late.
The street food is perfectly safe to eat and delicious, too.
How to get to Sapa, Vietnam
Sapa isn’t an easy place to get to, which is buffering it from the over-tourism seen in places like Ha Long Bay. The most common and affordable approach is to fly into Hanoi and then catch an overnight train through to Lao Cai. You arrive very early in the morning, so a pre-organised transfer from Lao Cai to Sapa (around 45 minutes) is wise.
The train itself is safe and warm, with multiple tiers of “luxury” on offer. We went the average four-berth option and it’s more than comfortable enough. The toilets and washbasin are fine albeit basic, and some food and water are provided. Just be wary that the train can get noisy running over the tracks, so earplugs are recommended.
The hike down to Lao Chai is tricky in spots, but you'll stop frequenty just to gaze at the view. Photo / Chris Stead
Alternatively, you can drive or catch a bus, with the winding road taking between four and six hours. This is obviously a lot quicker, but you spend your day in the car. Plus, overnight trains are a really cool experience for the kids.
Checklist
SAPA, VIETNAM
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Hanoi with Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Airlines with one stopover, then travel to Sapa via train, car or bus.
