A political mural in Belfast's Falls Rd district. Photo / 123RF
A political mural in Belfast's Falls Rd district. Photo / 123RF
Belfast has not forgotten its troubled history but the city's future is looking brighter, finds David Mercer.
There are clear signs of Belfast's troubled past as I drive along Falls Rd.
A house has no front windows - they were bricked-up to prevent glass being shattered. Nearby, a row of gardens on a terraced street is protected by a caged roof.
Street murals with strong political messages hint at the deep divisions that have long existed in Northern Ireland's capital.
But the scene of so much violence in recent decades has been transformed into a tourist hotspot.
I travel across the Irish Sea on a Stena Line ferry from Birkenhead port in Liverpool, to discover how Belfast, after years of conflict, is thriving.
Passengers wanting a peaceful night's sleep on the eight-hour overnight journey can book a cabin, and there's plenty of entertainment on offer. Some people bunk down for the night in the communal areas with their laptops and make use of the free wifi, while others enjoy a drink from the bar and watch a football match.
The ferry ride is an enjoyable way to reach Belfast and a chance to stretch your legs without being strapped to your seat.
As I arrive in the city, I am struck by the words painted on the wall of one of the oldest pubs, The Garrick: "A nation that keeps one eye on the past is wise, a nation that keeps two eyes on the past is blind."
It's a message Belfast seems keen to uphold, and a black taxi tour provides an insight into the history of the city's traditional Catholic and Protestant areas.
Driver Michael Rock says tourism in the city has been massively boosted since the Good Friday Agreement in 1998.
We stop at the Clonard Martyrs Memorial Garden, which lists the names of IRA members and civilians from the area killed during the Troubles - including a 4-year-old girl.
The taxi tour continues through the "peace gates" which still separate the traditionally Protestant and Catholic areas.
"The next generation will take this wall down," Michael says, as we enter Shankill Rd, where a number of homes fly Union flags.
Tourists can sign the wall on this side and the Dalai Lama is among the list of famous signatures.
The Titanic visitor attraction and a monument in Belfast. Photo / 123RF
After learning about Belfast's past conflicts, I visit the city's Titanic Quarter, which has undergone significant regeneration in recent years. I am staying at the Hilton Hotel, with views of the Harland and Wolff shipyard, where the Titanic was built more than a century ago.
Belfast is proud of its ship-building tradition. Its close ties to the Titanic are highlighted by a memorial at Belfast City Hall engraved with the names of those killed on the ill-fated vessel on April 15, 1912.
Built to mark the 100th anniversary of the ship's sinking, Titanic Belfast is an interactive tour, which reveals how the luxury liner was made and tells the stories of men and women on board.
Footage of the wreckage is shown on a gigantic cinema screen inside the building, while one section of the tour looks at how the ship's voyage has been portrayed by Hollywood.
An alternative way to learn more about Belfast's links to the Titanic is by taking a place on a Segway tour. Donning a crash helmet and fluorescent jacket, I am part of a group of seven riders who ride single file with a guide, around the area where the doomed ship was built.
The area is also home to Titanic Studios, where the hit television series Game of Thrones is shot. Fans of the show can take a tour of the various filming locations around Northern Ireland.
As evening draws in, I head to The Crown, which was built in the 1840s and has the authentic feel of a pub from another century.
After a couple of days in Belfast, I am keen to explore Northern Ireland and drive to the Giant's Causeway on the northern coast. According to legend, the thousands of interlocking basalt columns are the remains of a causeway built by a giant. In fact, they are the result of ancient volcanic eruption and remain a hugely impressive sight.
I stay at Galgorm Resort and Spa, a short drive from Belfast and set in 160 acres of lush parkland. There is a range of massages and spa treatments for those looking to relax, while the River Room restaurant offers a "Taste of Antrim" with five or seven course options on the menu.
My weekend break paints a very different picture of the city which dominated news headlines in the 90s. Belfast has pulled off a remarkable transformation.
