Beachcombing around Auckland

By MARIOS GAVALAS

It's the ultimate place to relax. You can have fun there with others or you can find your own special spot out of the way. Nowhere compares to a beach for the feelings of serenity, calm and joy evoked by the meeting of land and sea.

The warmth of a summer's morning accompanied by the soothing licks of inviting ocean waves is an image of dream-like quality, guaranteed to calm the nerves.

A wild, raw and windswept beach produces a sense of wonder and awe, unshackles the burdens of life and uplifts the spirit. The sand seems to absorb the stresses, leaving you refreshed for the next day.

Around Auckland we have a sumptuous combination of beaches. The black-sand beaches of the west coast have long been a source of inspiration. Film-makers, artists and beach-goers recognise the unrefined majesty of the wild coast, flanked by the densely forested Waitakere Ranges.

The intimate, serene and cosy east coast beaches of the Waitemata Harbour and Hauraki Gulf counterpoint the west coast admirably. Tiny indentations in the sandstone cliffs and the shelter of the Gulf islands provide ideal locations for rest and recreation.

If the beaches in the Auckland region aren't enough, the nearby Coromandel Peninsula offers more temptation. Its eastern shore is brimming with golden sands, hemmed by forest-covered headlands and ringed with pohutukawa.

The powerful waves of the west coast make swimming extremely dangerous - swim only in patrolled areas and always between the flags.

The east coast is generally safer for bathing and most beaches offer sheltered waters suitable for enjoyment by young families. These are beaches to roll out your towel, smother on the suncream and eat a picnic lunch. Take beach games and a book.



But with so many beaches to choose from, it can be difficult to decide where to visit. Here are a few to get you started this summer.

Anchor Bay

The pristine, north-facing beaches around Anchor Bay are deeply scalloped and separated by rocky outcrops.

Tawharanui Regional Park lies behind the beaches and has toilets, parking, picnic tables, barbecues and camping grounds. You should take a picnic and drinking water. An information centre details activities concerning the park's natural history which are geared towards children's learning.

The park has a network of walking tracks that follow rocky coastlines to high lookouts. For water lovers, kayaking around the rocky protrusion at Tokatu Point is a must.

North of Anchor Bay is a protected marine area and has abundant fish and marine life. The rocks at the bay's eastern end offer snorkellers and divers a varied and colourful marinescape. Taking any life or objects from the sea is strictly prohibited.

The beaches are gently shelving and safe for swimming in calm conditions.

Muriwai Beach

Muriwai Regional Park occupies the land bordering the black sands and has large parking areas, picnic tables, toilets, barbecues, a children's play area, takeaway shop, campground and small shop.

The Takapa Refuge on Otakamiro Point allows close encounters with the gannet colony, where you can watch the gannets establish partnerships and nest. .

Muriwai is one of New Zealand's most dangerous swimming beaches and is patrolled by a surf life saving club.

Nearby Maori Bay and Muriwai Beach are popular with surfers. Fishing is dangerous as rogue waves can catch the unwary.

The beach is a sand highway and designated road, stretching 50km to a salt-laden haze near Kaipara South Head. For 4WDs, access is at Okiritoto stream. Turn right into Coast Rd and follow it 1 1/2km past the golf course. There is also a large parking area under pine trees for horse floats. Land yachting along the firm sand is popular.

Piha

Memorable walks abound at Piha. Climb Lion Rock (30 minutes return) for unparalleled views of the black sands. At the southern end, the Tasman Lookout track (30 minutes return) leads to the Gap, a break in the rocks by Taitomo Island, and a spectacular display of foaming water.

At the northern end, the steep Laird Thompson track links the Rose track. It takes 45 minutes to reach the relative seclusion of White's Beach.

Piha is internationally recognised as one of the top surfing places in the country and is especially popular with teenagers.

The beach is notorious for rips and holes and is dangerous for swimming. Piha Surf Life Saving Club patrols the southern end and the United Surf Club patrols the northern end. A shop and a takeaway bar are near the Piha Club buildings.

Piha lagoon is a short walk from the beach in front of the campground and is suitable for children to paddle or row inflatables.

Parking can be a problem during long weekends, despite the designated areas at the southern and northern ends, by the Surf Life Saving Clubs and on Marine Parade North.

Toilets are by the reserves, club buildings and at locations behind the beach.

Karekare

Karekare is a beach for getting back to basics. Imposing cliffs are shrouded in a robe of green, and a broad plateau of fine sand sweeps to the rolling surf. A wall of sea spray is blown incessantly onshore by the Tasman's breath.

Take a walk around Karekare Point at the southern end of the beach to the vast expanse of swampland stretching to Whatipu.

Children can ride bikes and trikes at mid-to-low tide on the firm and level sand. Take a kite or ball games as the open area is vast.

There is a surf life saving club but few other facilities. You should take a picnic and drinks as there are no shops nearby.

From the carpark and toilets, the beach is a five-minute walk beside the Karekare stream, which is usually ankle-deep. Another pleasant (10-minute) accessway is by crossing the bridge over the stream near the carpark and following the Pohutukawa Glade Walk where there are also toilets.

Karekare is popular for horse riding and in late summer the Karekare Races are held.

Kauritutahi Beach

Weaving indentations skirt the eastern side of Awhitu Peninsula, forming shallow and sheltered swimming areas such as Kauritutahi Beach.

The cosy area of white sand is divided by lines of shells, congregated into small ridges by the lapping of Manukau Harbour waves over the tidal mud flats.

The beach is best enjoyed at its southern end, where there is shade from a large pohutukawa tree. The old jetty still sits proud. Picnic tables and a toilet are just below the Brook Homestead. This elegant 100-year-old cottage is perched firmly on solid brick piles in a garden of mature trees. Children can safely run free in the cool grounds.

The beach is a five-minute walk from the carpark at Awhitu Regional Park, which is 33km north of Waiuku, along Awhitu Rd. It has toilets, picnic tables, barbecues and a campground. Take something to eat and drink as there are no nearby shops.

Whangamata

Whangamata has been a popular surfing beach since the 1960s and is the hang-out for party-minded teenagers during the long summer holidays. Entertainment is provided during the peak season around the surf life saving club, off Lowe St, with beach pageants and bands.

During the New Year celebrations there is often police activity pulling up those with high spirits.

Boogie-boarding, bodysurfing and windsurfing are common in Whangamata's consistent surf.

The golden beach runs for 3km in the shape of a dog-leg, with Hauturu Island lying just offshore at the kink. The causeway is usually lined with fishermen.

A grass domain with picnic tables runs behind the beach along Esplanade Drive. Toilets are near the surf life saving club.

The beach is popular with families. Even if the weather is not conducive to enjoying the beach, the town offers plenty of alternative wet-weather activities, places to buy food and drink and a wide choice of accommodation.

Hahei

The ivory sands of Hahei often radiate brilliantly under clear skies and complement the turquoise-blue water. Offshore, the forest-covered islands are liberally scattered. With your kayak, you can explore the caves, blowholes, headlands and jagged cliffs.

The surf is generally safe and the waves break evenly. The Wigmore stream at the southern end is suitable for children to splash in and the wide beach allows plenty of games, such as petanque or playing with a frisbee.

Climb the wooden steps at the southern end of the beach to the Te Pare Historic Reserve Walk. This 30-minute return track reaches the headland and allows spectacular views of the waves crashing into the offshore islands and reefs. Take your binoculars.

While in the area, the two-hour return walk to Cathedral Cove is a must. The nearby Te-Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve is a paradise for divers and snorkellers.

The town has accommodation and a motor camp. Shops, cafes and a takeaway bar are a five-minute walk from the carpark at the end of Hahei Beach Rd, where there are also toilets.

Port Jackson

Curving gently around the Coromandel's northernmost bay, the beach at Port Jackson is a fitting finale to a drive along the peninsula's west coast.

From north of Colville, the unsealed road skirts the coastline, passing under 150-year-old pohutukawa, whose gnarled branches reach lazily for the pebbles on the rocky foreshore. Rusting farm sheds, dilapidated cottages and the occasional gate across the road are the only signs of civilisation.

Port Jackson is a gently shelving beach with a wide strip of firm, flat sand exposed at low tide. It offers safe swimming and is a family beach, suited to beach games. A DoC campground with piped water, showers and toilets runs its length. The nearest shop is at Colville, 30km away, so arrive prepared. As the area is a farm park, dogs are not allowed.

Fish are abundant near the rocky headlands either side of the beach.

Tawhitokino Beach

Tawhitokino Beach is reached by a 45-minute, one-way track from the carpark at Waiti Bay. Cross the colourful headland to the south (three hours either side of low tide) and pass through Tuturau Bay.

Tawhitokino Beach is a 1 1/2km sweep of fine sand framed by coastal forest, which merges with its shaded rear margins. The sand is wide enough for beach games and the water is generally safe for swimming.

The forest behind the beach provides a habitat for many birds. The abundant rock pools on the walk harbour lively microcosms of marine life. Any of the rocky headlands along the way are suitable for fishing.

To access Tawhitokino Beach from Kawakawa Bay, follow Kawakawa Bay Coast Rd for 4.3km to the carpark at Waiti Bay Toilets and picnic tables are nearby. Take food and water, as the nearest shop is in Kawakawa Bay. There is a beach area close to the carpark, suitable for launching a kayak or setting up a windsurfer.

Takapuna Beach

Takapuna Beach has long been a playground for Aucklanders. Bathing in the warm, sheltered, shallow waters started around 1890, but public opinion then was against women entering the water. Men were expected to wear two-piece costumes which covered flesh from the neck to the knees.

Swimming between the hours of 8am and 6pm was frowned on, and bathing during the hours of church on Sunday morning was positively sinful. Costumes and towels had to be approved by a council inspector, who was responsible for ensuring all conduct on the beach was "proper".

Today, Takapuna is a city beach with a wide area of firm, golden sand exposed at low tide. It is popular with morning joggers, and families fossick for shells sprinkled on the sand's surface. Pohutukawa on the shoreline frame Rangitoto's gentle profile.

Sea kayakers use the beach for launching and take advantage of the shelter provided by Rangitoto. Windsurfing is popular.

At most tides you can skirt around the narrow southern headland to St Leonards Beach. This beach is a world away from Takapuna Beach and receives fewer visitors than its busier neighbour. Rickety wooden stairs climb to mansions on the high ground behind.

The beaches are gently shelving and suitable for swimming. The main access to the beach is from Gould Reserve off the Strand, where there are toilets, picnic tables and parking areas. Takapuna centre is nearby with shops and cafes.

* Don't forget your hats, sunnies and the all-important sunscreen for you and the children. While you are visiting the beaches, they are in your care.

* Contact Surf Life Saving New Zealand, ph (09) 303 4303, email northern@lifesaving.org.nz, for information on when beaches are patrolled.