Bay of Islands break that soothes the soul

By GERALDINE MCMANUS

The distinctive morepork sound echoed across the valley and water. The large deck of Kanuka Loft is an ideal spot to enjoy the sounds and sights of nature, night and day. The nearby bush attracts a variety of birds.

Kanuka Loft is seven minutes' drive from Russell on the Te Wahapu peninsula in the Bay of Islands.

It offers the best of both worlds - a chance to unwind and recharge among the tranquillity of the kanuka bush, then when energy is restored there are walking and swimming options, followed by leisurely lunches in the Bay of Islands cafes and restaurants.

I chose to alternate between mild activities, walking and swimming, leaving time to watch the activity of others busy with their boats.

The loft consists of spacious self-contained holiday accommodation set on 1.6ha of bush land overlooking the water.

The Swedish-style interior has timber floors and ceiling, and crisp, clean, white walls. Blue-and-white striped and checked duvets add charm to bedrooms.

There is space for families or friends, with one double and a twin-bed room, plus more bedding if required with fold-down couch futons in the living area.

There is ample parking for anyone who wants to bring their own boat and trailer to explore the Bay of Islands.

I imagine Kanuka Loft as the perfect retreat to write a book or a thesis but it is also popular with families. The loft is more than just bed and bed breakfast accommodation; there is room to spread out and make it yours.

In the morning, I watched the activity of the bay begin. Steaming past was the dolphin boat followed by the extraordinary Excitor roaring across the bay. Then the graceful three-masted Tucker Thompson came into view.

All were setting out from Opua to collect passengers for the day's cruises. Later in the day they return. After sunset, the darkness of the evening was lit by the lights of Paihia reflected in the water.

The walk to the end of the Te Wahapu peninsula takes about an hour for the round trip. I walked to the end of the road and, at low tide, there was access over the shelly shore to an uninhabited, bush-covered island, just off the point. A track winds through the bush and along the ridge of the island. The views over the bay through the branches were delightful.

Also, at low tide it is possible to meander further around the shore edge of the peninsula, past baches and holiday homes accessible only by water.

There is a beach and small grassy reserve near the end of the peninsula suitable for swimming at high tide. Many people put their boats into the water from the beach and windsurfers set off.

With a towel and a book, I lay on the grassy bank beneath the pohutukawa and manuka surveying the scene, napping more than reading.

I caught a passenger ferry from the Russell wharf to Paihia, 10 minutes across the bay. From Paihia, it's an easy walk along the beach to the Waitangi Treaty grounds.

After a stroll back to Paihia, it was time for retail therapy. Both Russell and Paihia cater for the tourist with arts and crafts galleries.

Near Kanuka Loft is the Omata Estate Winery. From the loft's deck you can see the neat rows of vines. I sampled a large latte at the outdoor table, watching a helicopter land on the lawn beside the restaurant.

Guests were greeted with glasses of bubbly, adding a sophisticated edge to the laid-back holiday resort of the bay.

* Geraldine McManus was hosted by Kanuka Loft.

Getting there

Kanuka Loft, Te Wahapu Rd, RD 1, Russell. Email or phone (09) 403 7049

Accommodation

Self-contained with linen provided except for beach towels. Two-bedroom loft apartment with huge decks seven minutes' drive from Russell.

Tariff

$140 for double and $20 each extra person a night. Minimum stay two nights, maximum six guests

Wheelchair accessible

No

Smoking

Outside only.

What else to do

Cruise the Bay of Islands, explore Russell, swim at Long Bay or Whangaruru, visit Pompallier House, walk to Whangamumu Harbour.