In the heart of the city are two historic pubs, The Guildford Arms and The Cafe Royal. They are both worth a look, but The Cafe Royal is a better bet when spending your Scottish pounds. This Edinburgh gem was moved to its present location in 1863.
I wandered in a day after its 150th birthday. To celebrate they had a tasty anniversary ale from Glasgow brewery Kelburn. Stained glass, detailed pillars and gilded cornices complement walls garnished with huge 130-year-old paintings to create an opulent Victorian era establishment. They're known for their cask ales, single malts and fresh oysters.
Upstairs is The Voodoo Rooms, a classy cocktail bar with leather booths and late-night music.
Whiski
119 High Street
This tidy little award-winning bar on the Royal Mile specialises in the Scottish liquid gold. Their menu reads like a phone book, with 300 Scotch blends and single malts sitting on an impressively large shelf that overshadows the smartly dressed and knowledgeable barmen.
A ladder is used to access your chosen drop, which might be located four shelves up and several bottles deep. Mine was a 12-year-old Speyside single malt. Try the barman's favourite - an 18-year-old Glendronach.
The Dome
14 George Street
In New Town you can find lively bars such as Bon Viviant and 99 Hanover, but if you prefer something quieter and classier go to The Dome. This decadent 18th-century structure was built for the College of Physicians but went well over budget and was later sold to the Royal Bank of Scotland.
Several facelifts, and a century later, it is a restaurant, cafe, bar and conference venue. This breathtaking piece of architecture is a must-see.
Bond No9
84 Commercial St, Leith
In the port district of Leith lives Bond No9. This large lounge bar with outdoor seating and couch-laden conservatory prides itself on its extensive drinks menu of homemade creations.
Since opening in 2008, only one drink has been constantly on the list - the Absente Absinthe Red Fairy. It's a tasty concoction, but too many could bring the little hand-painted green fairies on the wall to life. Perfect for a night out or just a drink in the sun. Try their haggis bon bons.
Dragonfly
52 West Port
In the shadows of Edinburgh Castle, at the bottom of the hill beyond the Old Town, you'll find the darker edges of the city - this is where things can get a bit medieval late at night.
Within the rough however, lies a pretty and inviting cocktail bar with an Asian theme. Fabric flowers and geisha paintings compete for wall space with fake Roman busts.
There's little pretension in Scotland and even less here. With talented bartenders and good music, Dragonfly beckons.
Bramble
16a Queen Street
A Brief History of the Dead was the title that greeted me on approaching the bar. With just 12 pages of whiskies, wines and cocktails, it wasn't a captivating read, but it was an innovative way to present a drinks menu.
Soft-porn pictures, red velvet chairs, string curtains and private sofa rooms could have you thinking you've wandered into the wrong type of bar, but a closer look confirms a style consistent with entertaining - this is a great place for a date. There are no street signs pointing to Bramble, which is underground.
Bramble is unassuming, but this busy little maze of a bar, with smart service, 70s decor and soul and hip-hop music proves the old adage: You can't judge a book by its cover.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Emirates flies daily from Auckland to Dubai and on to Scotland.
