Balmy days in Bali

By PAULA OLIVER

People react strangely when you say you're going to Bali for a holiday. "Oh ... you're brave," is a common response. As a first-time visitor I was struck by many things - none of them dangerous.

The first thing to hit me was the thick, steamy heat of Denpasar's Nguarah Rai international airport.

Bali's tropical climate means that temperatures vary only slightly between night and day, and even if you arrive late at night it's a warm, enveloping heat - a heat that makes you reach for the nearest sarong and pina colada.

Just as well there's plenty of both.

Something that cannot be missed is the new level of security.

The locals refer to last year's bombing of two popular nightspots in the renowned party, surfing and shopping town of Kuta as "Black October". Some in the tourism business prefer to call it "The Event".

Whatever you want to call it, it cannot be denied that the bombing has had a huge effect on Bali.

Some things haven't changed, such as the essence of the tiny island and its friendly people. The beaches are the same and so is the stunning scenery.

But I found the evidence of the bomb's impact on the streets of Kuta, where paths that usually teem with people at this time of year are almost spacious.

One shopkeeper told me I was the first customer of the day. It was almost 1pm.

Kuta is full of stores and stalls that sell recognised labels along with the fake versions. It's a colourful place that is full of energy.

Insistent hawkers make repetitive offers on the main street.

"Transport, transport?"

"Plait your hair, plait your hair?"

"Paint your nails?"

"Sarong, sarong?"

Several shopkeepers had switched off their store lights and air-conditioning when I visited because they couldn't pay the bills.

It didn't affect the shopping experience too much - if anything it meant that people who enjoyed bargaining could get even bigger discounts from desperate shopkeepers.

The Balinese masked their hardship well. They were genuinely delighted to see a shopper.

If I reached the point of convincing them I didn't need a 39th sarong, I was able to have a warm conversation with most.

Many were apologetic about the bombing and asked me when I thought tourists would start returning.

Upbeat stallholders sold T-shirts that screamed, "Terrorism won't stop me".

I did get involved in bargaining for holiday gifts, but I quickly realised that the currency was so weak that I was haggling over $3. I figured some of the shopkeepers needed it more than I did ...

Another thing that struck me, almost literally, during my journey around Bali was travelling by road, Balinese-style.

The island measures just 140km by 80km, and the Balinese find that the best way to get around it is aboard a motorscooter.

As many as four people can be squeezed on to a scooter at any given time (mum, dad, and two kids) and while most of them wear helmets, it still proves to be a dicey mode of transport.

Drivers of cars, vans and 4WD vehicles pay little attention to the buzzing scooters in their midst.

The result is a chaotic scene of near-misses as scooters suddenly find their paths cut off, or scooters whizz dramatically into the face of oncoming traffic.

While I'm sure people occasionally get hurt, I was fortunate to avoid seeing anyone suffer that fate. Still, that could have been because I covered my face from time to time.

I quickly decided against renting a vehicle.

A mini-revival has started by holiday makers drawn to Bali by discount deals. Hotels and resorts are still running well below capacity - meaning there is no shortage of accommodation and deals.

I stayed at a Club Med resort, at the beachside spot of Nusa Dua, about 30km from the thriving centre of Denpasar.

Nusa Dua is home to several high-class resorts, a golf course and a classy shopping centre.

Security around the area was noticeable. Any vehicle attempting to enter Club Med was checked by guards, and many taxis were not allowed past the gates.

Passengers were swiftly dropped at the entrance and the taxis directed away.

Even the entrance to Nusa Dua itself is monitored, with locals kept back at the elaborate gates that mark the start of the area.

On the other side of the gates keen locals have set up stalls selling the usual Bali wares, which means visitors don't have far to go if they want a typical Bali market experience.

Nusa Dua's Galleria shopping centre was quiet - I could enjoy wandering among the near-empty stores in the sun.

Most of the Bali that tourists see is on the southern part of the island. But there are gems to be seen further north, such as the market town of Ubud. The journey to Ubud takes you past villages and temples and through stunning terraced rice fields.

You can make the trip on an organised tour with a knowledgeable guide, but that method can be frustrating for keen photographers - the scenery is so picturesque that you'll want to stop the vehicle every mile for a picture.

The alternative is hiring a guide to drive you around for the day (don't pay at the beginning, I'm told). Then there's driving yourself - an option for brave souls only.

By the time I left Bali I had marvelled at the scenery and the warmth of the people.

I can't tell you it's safe to go to Bali.

But tourists are returning, and if they're anything like me then at no point will they feel uncomfortable or threatened. Instead they will feel very welcome.

A group of Australians I met told me they had gone to Bali because if they didn't "the terrorists have won". Yes, the Bali that many people knew before last October is still there.

* Paula Oliver was a guest of Club Med.

When to go

The locals will tell you that now is the best time - especially if you don't like crowds.

Essentially Bali has just two seasons, a wet season from September to February, and a dry season for the remaining six months. It sits around 30 degrees any time of year, and humidity is high. It is hottest in August and September, and it's never cold at night.

Getting there

Garuda Indonesia offer flights from Auckland to Denpasar via Brisbane. Be warned that security checks on hand luggage in Brisbane are extensive and slow, and it is best to carry as little as possible.

All-inclusive Club Med packages start from $1769 an adult, $979 for children (aged 4-11) for six nights.

Where to stay

Nusa Dua is full of top-class resorts and away from the crowded centres if you want to relax.

If you're after a faster pace, Kuta offers all levels of accommodation, and because of the fall in tourist numbers many operators are offering discounts.

There is no shortage of accommodation in other parts of the island.

Getting around

Brave travellers could try driving themselves, but other options include taxis and guides with their own cars. Most fares are open to bargaining, and if you're going very far then it's worth checking that your transport has air- conditioning. Day and half-day tours on mini-buses are plentiful, and pick up from resorts.

Things to see and do

Shopping - Bali's markets and stores are a shopper's heaven if you're after anything relating to clothing and textiles, wooden bowls, bags, furniture, art, ornaments and many other things. Bargaining is common but some stores are labelled fixed-price and you don't haggle there.

Relaxing - it's easy to pass a day lazing by the pool with a cool drink or sitting on the beach with a book.

Sports - surfing is good in Bali and many other watersports are available. Golf is common.

Advisory

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade's travel advisory for Indonesia suggests New Zealanders consider deferring non-essential travel.