KEY POINTS:
Pity the Balinese - they have done little to deserve their fate. It's hard to imagine a more peaceful people, or such a naturally blessed island as theirs, yet they have suffered sorely in the wake of the bombings of October 2005.
The Balinese smile through these tough times, taking comfort from their mix of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs, a living religion you see signs of at every turn on this island of the gods.
Bali desperately wants our tourist dollars, but what are New Zealanders to do when our Government advises against travelling there? Everyone must make their own decision but I willingly returned to Bali this year, telling myself that no travel is completely without risk.
Is visiting Bali really any less safe than holidaying in Fiji (now into coup d'etat number four), visiting London (Paddington Station was bombed in the same year as Bali), or heading to New York City (still officially at a ``high risk' of terrorist attack)? I saw little evidence to suggest it is.
The trick is to take commonsense precautions to minimise your risk. Book your Bali holiday with a reputable group such as Club Med, which offers secure accommodation, avoid tourist traps like Kuta, be vigilant on public transport, be respectful of local customs.
CLUB MED: Just 20 minutes' drive from the airport, Club Med is at Nusa Dua, a secure resort area which was once the exclusive preserve of the well-heeled. These days, they're offering such affordable, all-inclusive deals that Nusa Dua is well within reach of most tourists. You could happily enjoy a week of luxury living without leaving the splendid Balinese architecture and gardens of the resort but it is also easy to get into the beautiful hinterland and explore. Club Med packages include all your meals from the resort's gourmet buffet, all your drinks at a full open bar and most activities on-site.
ACTIVITIES: In Bali, you have to hit the water and with the Java Sea lapping on to the long beach at Nusa Dua, you're in the right spot. Club Med packages include boat trips to go snorkelling in the tropical water, windsurfing lessons and kayaking, or you could just opt for a swim at the beach or pool. On land, there's the famous flying trapeze, archery, tennis, yoga, golf, beach volleyball, fitness classes and the Club Med Spa. Or some days you can't beat relaxing outside your bungalow with a good book and soaking up the scent of Bali. Kids can be left in the tender care of Petit Club Med!
EXPLORE: Get into the hinterland to see village festivals and the island's steep valleys of cultivated rice terraces. These shimmering, green valleys are a famous feature of the island, inspiring writers and artists alike. Ubud is the cultural heart of Bali, and a visit to its art and craft markets and temples is highly recommended.
While you're there, enjoy a delicately spiced Balinese meal at the Lotus Flower Garden Cafe looking across a peaceful pond to the Royal Palace. Or be bold and visit the monkey forest - just remember to take your sunglasses off first.
RIDE AN ELEPHANT: North of Ubud, at Taro, is the Elephant Safari Park, home to 27 magnificent Sumatran elephants. There is a short "show" of sorts but the elephants in this conservation park are not trained to do circus tricks. The real reason to visit is to see how these refugees of rampant deforestation are being cared for and to ride an elephant. We had 30 magical minutes on the back of Ola, a 25-year-old female, walking through plantations surrounding the 2.5ha park.
THE MARKETS: There are craft, clothing and jewellery markets within 10 minutes walk of Club Med. Spending a few Indonesian rupiah (NZ$1 equals 6800 rupiah) at the markets is a great way to inject money directly to Balinese families. Most of the stallholders, selling everything from earrings to T-shirts, are mums. Haggle fairly, don't try to rip them off, and take time to chat.
- Detours, HoS