Helen Jackson finds her happy place among an exuberant island people.
As we fly through tiny villages and traverse picture-perfect rice paddies, the exhilaration of the wind, the heat and postcard scenery is enough to make me whoop with delight.
We are cycling a 25km trip towards Ubud in Bali, but thoughts of lunch are quickly dashed as I'm doing a lot more braking than pedalling.
The well maintained cycle route is almost totally downhill, on a country road that winds down to Ubud. The villages we pass have a sense of structure and design that reflects the artistry of the Balinese people. The warm breeze holds occasional bursts of cooking aromas and the occasional waft of pungent jackfruit.
Bebek Bengil, where we settle for lunch, is a delight for anyone who loves well-seasoned crispy fried duck - who doesn't? It's known also as the "Dirty Duck Diner". I assume the dirty could only come from the state of my hands post pulling half a duck apart to get every morsel of flesh from the bones, but it turns out the name comes from a flock of muddy ducks that sheltered at the newly built restaurant during the monsoon.
Bebek Bengil is set as separate open-sided rooms divided by gardens, similar in layout to a Balinese house. Once, Ubud was a quiet arts and craft village beside a river, offering cool inland relief from the beaches of Seminyak and Kuta.
These days, although still focused on craft as opposed to industry, Ubud reflects the popularity of Bali as a destination. Its narrow streets are filled with shoppers buying well-crafted local arts and jewellery and cheap, phallic-shaped bottle openers.
It is from Ubud that you can visit the Sacred Monkey Forest for an up close experience with long-tailed macaques. The forest also has a Hindu temple that is open to tourists. Adrenaline junkies may choose instead to perch on a raft and paddle the white waters of the river nearby.
We opt to retreat to Nusa Dua and the calm, spacious Club Med, where a spa awaits, but first we have to negotiate a patch of heavy traffic involving much tooting and cars driving six abreast on a three-lane road.
Needless to say, our arrival back at the spa is a welcome relief. The cool ginger drink and fragrant cloth on offer at the spa immediately wipe away more than just grime. I then indulge in an hour of complete and absolute bliss.
I lie back and savour each peaceful moment as the masseuse works her magic. It's hard to imagine that outside children are squealing with delight as they douse each other in water fights, fling themselves on to the trapeze at Kids' Club activities that make these resorts a favourite for families.
My children, however, are back in New Zealand with their Dad so, for me, the recently opened child-free Zen area, with its own pool and refined restaurant is an oasis of calm where I can relax with books, cocktails, lunch at my own schedule and gaze out at the sparkling Indian Ocean.
Club Med Bali Spa. Photo / Supplied
The expansive view occasionally flashes with bursts of colour as parasailers skim by and closer to shore, those wanting to work with the breezes and currents practise paddleboarding and windsurfing under expert tuition, all part of the Club Med experience.
I've glanced at the tennis courts, golf course, archery and water sports but truly am happiest soaking up the tranquillity.
The Zen pool is devoid of chill, the seating placed strategically for maximum privacy and non-alcoholic drinks are readily available.
The Kintamani bar by the main pool is for those who want something stronger, be it caffeine or cocktails.
Here, you can pretty much order whatever you want, including a latte or a jar of dangerously good mojito, sweetened with palm sugar and packed with lime and mint. If you're of legal drinking age, a wristband indicates drinks are included in your holiday package.
Zen Pool at Club Med Spa Nusa Dua, Bali. Photo / Supplied
My only wish is that the daily yoga classes on the lawn would move out of sight. They are a taunting reminder of balance and moderation.
During the day, the Club Med theme song Happy randomly resonates around the resort, fitting for a place that has a prevailing mood of extraordinary happiness.
The Balinese are known for warmth and smiles but here, in the Club Med environs, everyone is happy regardless of nationality.
Much of that atmosphere surely stems from the GOs (Club Med staff) with their endless enthusiasm and effervescent personalities.
Multitalented young people, the GOs are always on hand to play with your kids by day and serve drinks and food.
At night they perform in shows designed to entertain that go late into the evening.
Beach parties are also a favourite activity here and we are treated to a fireworks display that could rival that of any international city.
When I leave a few days later the super-polite customs agent at Denpasar airport asks if I have fireworks in my bag. I think it best not to tell her I was very tempted.
Fact file
• Nusa Dua is a peninsula in southern Bali about 40km from Denpasar and a 30-40 minute drive from the popular tourist areas of Kuta and Seminyak. Travel time can vary greatly depending on the traffic - mid-afternoon is generally the busiest time.
• Home to many brand-name hotels, the Nusa Dua Kawasan Pariwisata, or Tourist District, offers a sense of safety through thorough security checks on each arriving vehicle.
• Taxis are easy to find and within 15 minutes of leaving your hotel on the peninsula you can be enjoying seafood on the beach at Jimbaran or shopping at Jenggala Ceramics. Balinese spas compete with pseudo-Ralph Lauren shops for popularity and a streetside pedicure can cost as little as $10 an hour.
• Although Club Med offers a number of eateries serving tasty local and international dishes, it's always exciting to dine at restaurants elsewhere and Nusa Dua has a great selection, including the award-winning Bumbu Bali Restaurant, which is only a short taxi ride - or a walk if you prefer - from Club Med.
• Bumbu Bali serves authentic Balinese food and the staff are extraordinarily friendly and helpful. Bumbu is the Indonesian word for spice or seasoning, which should not be confused with heat because although all the dishes are rich in flavour and texture, the chilli heat is often optional (aside from curries) and comes in the form of sambal (chilli) sauce served as a condiment. My advice is to choose the set menu at lunch or dinner so you can enjoy small bowls of a variety of dishes.
• Bali has some pretty hot restaurants, most of which are set in stunning environs. Mama San, Ku de Ta and Metis feature high on lengthy lists of recommendations that could easily take you a month to eat your way through.
• Although Balinese furniture is common in trendy design stores around the world, a drive along Sunset Rd has me mentally working out the logistics of hiring a shipping container to fill with the amazing pieces I see.
• Any gaps in the container could be filled with an assortment of homewares from the shops in Seminyak. Here, you will also find many western brands of resort-wear and popular Australian surf brands, the latter displaying prices that are generally close to those at home.
• Jenggala Ceramics has a factory outlet store for overruns and excess stock at Noth1 Sunset Rd and my zest for colourful plates ensures I looked more like a bag lady than a writer as I struggled through Denpasar airport on the way home. Despite my appearance, after only four days in Bali I am very happy and very relaxed!
Helen was hosted by Club Med Bali. To book online and for the latest Club Med deals, visit clubmed.co.nz
