Backpackers of the Beyond

The turquoise water of the Z-bend in the Murchison Gorges. Picture / Lara Markstein.

Isn't this fantastic? All we need is a lilo and a martini and we would be in heaven," Jimbo, our American friend, exclaimed as he saw the clear waters of the Murchison gorges.

No, I was tempted to reply, then we would be in Vegas. This was the real deal: the Australian Outback.

I am sure I had stellar reasons for choosing Western Australia as my first foray into backpacking independently. Obviously the crocodile maulings and Murdoch trials were not amongst them, so it must have been the expanse of rich red desert that called out to be explored. Within easy reach, safe, speaking English, what more could I want to ease me into the travelling experience?

Well, let's start with cash. Our budget of $13.50 a day was slightly hopeful. Fortunately, we had brought our tent, and with sites costing around $20 a night for two people, we saved considerably. Admittedly the camp kitchen's lights went out at 10pm, often in the middle of competitive international card games, and the refrigerators were not entirely reliable. But we could depend upon our fellow travellers. Not only did they pull out torches to complete competitions, they shared food and drink generously. Of course, that might have been because they were determined to defeat such brilliant card players, and we looked like half-starved refugees.

The find of the trip was The Black Cockatoo, an eco lodge run by an ageing hippy in the nowhere town of Nannup. Deep within the Southern Karri and Marri forests beside the meandering Blackwood River, Nannup is a bushwalkers' dream, where mountain bikers will find tracks galore and water-babies great canoeing. Better still, the nightly charge is only $11.

We spent three relaxing days in what our travelling companion Teresa called a place of spirituality. Perhaps it was the personal affirmation pyramid, the incense or the 5am musical sonata from more than 50 bird species which made her feel emotionally revitalised. Personally, the joy of a bath, fresh herbs and a wooden roof over my head sent me into spasms of joy. At least that's my excuse for my attempt at exercise on the yoga deck beneath Tibetan prayer flags.

Transport was another issue. Greyhound buses follow the main highway, and they cost an arm, a leg, and your love of travelling.

Enter Easyriders. Originally disdaining tour buses, the jump-on-and-off option offered by Easyriders allowed us to explore regions slightly off the beaten track. We had the added bonus of devoted tour guides. Moreover, Easyriders tour guides are a mad race of their own. Driving on the road is optional, screeching to a halt to hold and take photos of thorny devils a must.

Amidst driver Bart's never-ending quizzes he gifted us some most beautiful experiences. Instead of staying in the mining cultural capital, Tom Price, for New Year, we went bush. Sleeping in swags beside acacia trees silhouetted against sunset skies, we wiped away the cinders of 2005 with cries of Happy New Year that were enveloped by the darkness.

Even Tom Price had its uses, as launching point into the magnificent Karijini National Park. The burnished bronze pancake rocks descend into a gorge, the base of which is more than 3.5 billion years old. You can walk to the Fortescue waterfall and a pool of turquoise water. With eucalyptus and red gum trees overhanging these striking watering holes, it is no wonder the Aborigines believe the world began in Dreamtime in the Karijini.

For the best swimming spots, one has to head to the coast, particularly Coral Bay. Lazing at the beach, snorkelling with reef sharks, rays and turtles not 10 metres from shore on the Ningaloo Reef, make the stop essential. With a population of less than 120, most of whom live in the local camp grounds, Coral Bay might not be the epicentre of civilisation but it is heart-warming to be able to say good morning to the supermarket owner at the showers in the morning.

Margaret River, usually described as a sleepy, bohemian wine lovers' fantasy, is, by comparison, a hub of activity. Wine, cheese, chocolate, fudge, cola, lollies - state your sin and Margaret River will cater for it.

Because of the distances involved, transport is necessary. If you do not have a car, consider one of the many tours available. Although we were not able to afford to eat for a week afterwards, the $65 Bushtucker Wine Tour was bliss. Boutique wineries opened their doors and our minds with stunning concoctions. We were able to over-indulge in the 40-plus different wines presented throughout the day, since transport was provided. A feast of smoked kangaroo, crocodile, emu and witchetty grub paste could also be savoured or, in our case, gorged on. The delicious food, the stunning tastings, the free bottle of wine we won, all had us dreaming of our time in the place locals call Margs.

Six weeks was hardly long enough to do justice to the diversity of Western Australia. University called, the purse strings tightened, and all too soon we found ourselves flying home.

For novice backpackers, Western Australia cannot be missed. Nowhere else can you ride camels to peach sunsets scored through with violet clouds. Nowhere else will you always be treated as a long-lost child, because after all, this is Australia, and New Zealanders are almost kin.

DO

* Take a tent and camp - you cut accommodation costs by half.

* Get to campsites before 6pm to avoid uncomfortable nights

* Rent a car or take a hop-on/hop-off tour bus.

* Take a pack of cards - a great way to pass the time and a great way to meet people.

* Consider flying long distances - Australia is vast.

DON'T

* Use the Greyhounds unless you have to - they are expensive.

* Waste your money on tourist gimmicks.

* Buy food from roadhouses - stock up at the nearest town beforehand, preferably at the cheapest supermarket around.

* Expect to pay your way by working at harvesting - it is not reliable and not fun.

* Leave without a supply of books and music - Western Australia is about the beauty of the scenery but you'll need something for the long bus ride.

* Lara Markstein was the College Herald's journalist of the year in 2005.