Back to the nature of Perth

When it gets too hot, many Perthites like to head off to the nearby island of Rottnest, 25 minutes away by fast ferry from Fremantle.

The island is a nature reserve and all the holiday homes are owned by the Rottnest Island Authority; there is also a campsite and a youth hostel. Demand is so great during school holidays that accommodation is allocated by lottery, at other times you can book up to a year ahead. If you can do some forward planning, it pays off, as four or more nights on the island are so much better than a day trip.

Perth is relaxing but Rotto is more so, largely because no private cars are allowed. Everyone gets around on bikes - bring your own or hire one on the island or through the ferry company - gleefully taking up the whole road, helmets dangling illegally from the handlebars. Surrounded by crystal waters and beautiful bays and beaches, this is the place for an old-fashioned family holiday: picnics, bike rides, fishing, swimming and snorkelling. There's even a cinema in a wooden hut.

Oh, and those furry little critters that can be seen all over the island are quokkas. They were mistaken for giant rats by a passing Dutch explorer who gave this delightful place its name: it means rat's nest.

Back on the mainland, for long day trips or overnighters the regions north and south of Perth are equally rewarding. Fifty kilometres up the coast is Yanchep National Park (entrance is $9 a car), with emus roaming the bush, kangaroo lolling in the shade and koalas dozing up trees in their own spacious enclosure.

Beyond Yanchep is Guilderton where the Moore River meets the sea, a sleepy yet popular place with families who come to camp and fish. We hired a double canoe for the day (a bargain at $A10), lazed on the dunes and drifted along the river where we spotted an ibis and a tremendous pelican unperturbed by our gawking.

If you have an extra day, push on to the famous limestone Pinnacles in Nambung National Park.

To the south of Perth and inland is the town of Dwellingup, with forest trails and bushwalking. Or if touring country towns and vineyards is more your style, then head east through the picturesque Avon Valley.