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Back in the USSR for servings of Soviet-era nostalgia

By Anastasia Miari
New York Times·
10 mins to read

It's lunchtime in Moscow, and the line for Stolovaya 57 is out the door — a 20-person-long struggle for borscht, jellied pork, soft boiled vegetables and grated cabbage. Though it might be hard to imagine that people would wait any amount of time for a tray of food served by a stern-faced Russian woman in a dowdy canteen, this restaurant in Moscow's historic GUM department store is proving otherwise.

"Stolovaya" is Russian for "canteen" and the common term used for

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