KEY POINTS:
The face of Kakadu has many expressions, depending on the time of year you visit.
To avoid the heat, the accepted wisdom is to visit during the dry season when the National Park has regular tour guides and talk sessions, an abundance of walks and perhaps most importantly, less bugs.
But the tail end of the wet, when the flood plains swell with summer rain, offers delights no other time of the year can match.
The beauty of the landscape is breathtaking and the history of Australia's 20,000 square kilometres of ancient wonderland simply staggering.
Together they produce an experience bordering on the religious.
One of the few World Heritage Areas listed for both its cultural and natural significance, three days in Kakadu was barley enough to satisfy a first-timer and I left reluctantly with the promise of another visit.
But for those short on time, a late April trip, offers a cultural crash course and a visual feast.
No trip to Kakadu is complete without a cruise on the Yellow Water Billabong, located on a tributary of the South Alligator River. The canopied boats operate all year, and on a dewy morning I watched the sun crawl over the wetlands, shedding light on the largest river system in the park.
While it's easier spotting the locals with less water about, the boat was still treated to snatched glimpses of Magpie Geese, Jabirus, Sea Eagles, Whistling Ducks and a six metre saltie.
About a third of Australia's bird species are represented in Kakadu with at least 60 found in the wetlands and our guide and skipper knew just where to spot them.
About a 30-minute drive from the cruise, a climb to the top of the Nourlangie Rock Art Site provides spectacular views of craggy escapement.
The winding 1.5km track takes visitors through the walls of the rock shelters that have served to protect Aboriginal people for thousands of years from the heat, scorching sun and rain.
They also acted as a canvas and chart the relationship of the people to their land, which is elaborated on by information panels dotting the path.
The nearby Anbangbang Billabong was closed as a result of the summer deluge but a hike up the nearby escarpment provides magnificent views of both the watering hole and Nourlangie Rock.
To give real shape and meaning to your trip, and an understanding of a culture dating back thousands of years, visit the Warradjan Cultural Centre.
The detailed explanations of the Kakadu experience - from bush tucker to local dreaming - are part of hands-on display that allows outsiders to better appreciate local traditions.
On the last day of the adventure, I decided to indulge in a bird's eye view of Kakadu and take to the sky.
About a 10-minute drive from Jabiru, Kakadu Air offers an hour trip that includes the Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls.
Catching them at full flow as they channel the wet season downpours, is a sight to behold, as is the towering sandstone Arnhem Land Escarpment.
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Need to know
Yellow Water Cruises: Phone (0061 8) 8979 0145. For 1.5 hour cruise the cost is NZ$51 for adults $28 for children (up to 14 years); for two hours, NZ$62 and $33. Go to www.yellowwatercruises.com
Kakadu Air: For bookings call 1800-089-113. Go to www.kakaduair.com.au
- AAP
