Escape to The Boathouse on Satellite Island, Tasmania. Photo / Elise Hassey
It’s a heavenly combination of toasted marshmallows and seawater hot tubs at Tasmania’s private Satellite Island, writes Katie Lockhart.
“A mile to go,” said the island keeper as our boat bobbed up and down in the choppy channel waters. A combination of seaweed and saltwater hit my nostrils as the cliffs of Satellite Island came into view.
An island, off an island, off an island, this private hideaway is reachable via a five-minute boat ride from Bruny Island. Once used by French navigators to observe the constellations in the late 1700s, it was purchased in the 1960s as a creative retreat for a Norwegian immigrant named Ian Alstergren. Its rugged seaside remoteness reminded him of his childhood on the coast of Norway and was later passed down to his family, who turned it into one of Tasmania’s most unique stays.
Shaped like a whale sometimes seen off its shores, Satellite Island comprises 3.2km of blue gums, cliff tops trails and 250-million-year-old fossil-filled rocks.
Although just eight guests can book a stay on the private island, it has lots of year-round residents. Countless birds, from sooty oystercatchers to Pacific gulls, glide through its skies and nest in its trees. But, for ornithologists, the real draw is the island’s two massive white-breasted sea eagles.
There are also roughly 56 deer that roam the forest. “They’re basically here to cut the grass,” jokes island keeper Richard Roe. This Kiwi South Islander has been living on the island, taking care of its homes for more than 12 years.
The Boathouse’s rolling shutters were open as the boat glided alongside the deck, showing off its two nautical-inspired bedrooms. Lined with old cray pots, Adirondack chairs and multiple fire pits, the Boathouse is made for days spent diving into the icy waters and evenings spent roasting marshmallows.
During our stay, we weren’t brave enough to jump in, but we did spend the evening roasting marshmallows before settling into bed and falling asleep to the sound of the waves lapping up against the rocks.
Wooden steps lead up to the second lodging, the Summerhouse. Its black exterior pays homage to the owner’s Scandinavian roots, but its wraparound deck with barbecue is pure Australian. Inside are three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a large open-plan kitchen, living room and dining room straight out of a Beautiful Home magazine. Both homes are solar-powered and rely on rainwater.
A few minutes walk from the Summerhouse is a glamping tent with a full-sized bed flanked by animal skin rugs and chairs for watching the waves from its deck.
But my favourite spot on the island is its seawater hot tub. Handmade from Western red cedar, it’s secluded from the rest of the compound, down a stone path with uninterrupted views of the ocean and Bruny Island.
It’s all in the details
The warm yet sophisticated design is one of the most alluring aspects of each home. Soft pine and rattan rugs cover the floors, while antique nautical maps line the walls. Decor has been collected over the years, including a Scandinavian pine dresser, where kitchen ceramics are kept behind its original glass.
The antique dining room table is made from French cheese boards with campaign table legs, while the kitchen has clever details like nautical blue cabinets with rope handles. All the bathrooms are stocked with Grown Alchemist soaps and Diptyque candles.
Living off the land
During our stay, I ate the freshest eggs and oysters I’ve ever had. Just behind the Summerhouse is a matching chicken coop with daily eggs. A few feet away is a small garden with lettuce, rainbow chard and other veges for picking. And off the rocks surrounding the Boathouse are dozens and dozens of oysters you can shuck right on the deck.
While that may not be enough to sustain you, guests are told to bring anything else they’d like to eat with them from Tasmania or enlist a private chef. Roe and the team here keep a beautifully stocked pantry with oils, locally-made condiments, crackers, pasta, granola and a few sweets for guests to use.
Back on Bruny
For the rare moments when you do feel like stepping off the island, Roe is there to take you ashore for sightseeing or supplies at any time.
Bruny Island is a tourist hotspot for food lovers looking to try its famous Island cheese, oysters, honey and chocolate. And the country’s southernmost winery, Bruny Island Winery, makes a beautiful pinot noir and chardonnay.
The three Rs
Back on Satellite Island, your holiday is primed for relaxation. Walk any of the three marked and maintained trails that traverse the island. On a nice, calm day, pack a picnic for the top of the island or some local wine to watch the sun dip under the horizon from Sunset Bay.
During our morning cliff walk, we spotted quail and deer. We spent the rest of our time reading from slingback chairs on the porch, soaking in the seawater hot tub and lounging by the open fire as the wind rustled the blue gums.
Although it typically takes me a few days to unwind, I felt immediately more grounded on Satellite Island. And after our two-night minimum stay, I left feeling all of those cliche R words used to describe a getaway unlike any other.
CHECKLIST:
GETTING THERE: Drive 30 minutes from Hobart to catch the 15-minute ferry to Bruny Island. Rental cars from family-owned companies like Drive Car Hire Tasmania are the easiest way to get around. From the ferry, it’s a 30-minute drive to Alonnah, where you meet the private boat. drivecarhire.com.au