Morning is the best time to see the famous stingrays at Hamelin Bay. Photo / Tourism Western Australia
Day 1
8am Ease into the weekend with coffee and a fresh-from-the-oven snack at Egberts. There's plenty of outdoor seating brightened by Margaret River sunshine, and good views of the open kitchen turning out morning baking. Options to tide you over before the day's next stop include a Scandi-style morning bun laced with cinnamon or a plump pain aux raisin. You'll need to ask for an "escargot" to secure one of Egberts' buttery, raisiny French treats.
9am Create your own gourmet hit list by checking out the website for Margaret River's Saturday morning farmers market (margaretriverfarmersmarket.com.au). Located just south of Margaret River township, the sprawling affair kicked off 20 years ago, and now draws growers and producers from all around the southwest. Fuel up further with a bacon and egg roll, or pack your esky with local cheese and olives.
11am Make the short 4km drive southwest to Eagles Heritage in time for their 11am Birds of Prey Encounter. Ivy the barn owl and Booey the boobook – an owl species named for their distinctive call – are the photogenic stars of interesting presentations at this wildlife centre focused on the care of injured, orphaned or displaced birds of prey. Shows conclude with a team of free-flying black kites. After the encounter, negotiate Eagle Heritage's shaded 1km forest walk to check out other avian residents.
1pm It's an easy 15-minute drive west to the mouth of the Margaret River, near the iconic surf breaks that launched surfing in the region in the 1960s. Nearby Prevelly has excellent Indian Ocean views – look out for migrating humpback whales from June to September – while the dual appeal of Gnarabup beach has a sheltered tidal pool perfect for swimming, and leisurely lunches at the White Elephant Cafe.
3pm Options for West Australian subterranean exploration are all located along Caves Road, the meandering byway of wineries, gourmet stops and craft breweries framing the western side of the Margaret River region. Most exciting is Giants Cave with steep ladders and rocky scrambles, while Lake Cave features 300 steps down to an underground lake and stalactites. See margaretriver.com for details of cave opening times.
5.30pm Ten different craft breweries nestle in Margaret River's world-renowned wine country. Located in a former milking shed down a rural side road, Beerfarm is definitely the region's most rustic brewery, but there's no savvy lacking in the beers. If you're driving, their Calm Ya Farm pale ale is a sessionable Aussie classic, while seasonal brews under their Native label could include beers made with quandong (an indigenous bush peach). BYO dog or say g'day to a few of the canine guests always warmly welcomed.
8.15pm Booking ahead for one of the two sessions at Miki's Open Kitchen – either 6pm or 8.15pm – is essential to enjoy one of Margaret River's best restaurants. Just 16 diners are catered to, sitting around the open kitchen, and enjoying a tempura-based menu harnessing the best of West Australian seafood and organic Margaret River produce.
Day 2
8am Retro furniture from your first student flat combines with good coffee and stonking breakfasts at Margaret River Bakery's raffish location at the northern end of town. Settle in with a truffle and salmon bagel or grab something to go from the counter food. Damn good steak and mushroom pies, too.
9.30am It's around 30 minutes drive south to Hamelin Bay, and morning is the best time to see the beach's famous stingrays mooching around in the shallows. Keep your distance to respect their space, and look forward to seeing some rays with wingspans of up to two metres.
10.30am It's a further 30 minutes south to Cape Leeuwin, the wild and windy spot where the Indian Ocean meets the Southern Ocean. Australia's most southwesterly point is also marked by the Cape Leeuwin lighthouse, reopening in late 2022 after a one-year restoration. Book ahead online for a guided tour exploring Australia's tallest mainland lighthouse.
1.30pm Returning north to Margaret River, there's no shortage of vineyard restaurants for a flash degustation lunch. Voyager Estate, Leeuwin Estate and Wills Domain are all venerable fine-dining options, but the region's best-value degustation is at Rustico at Hay Shed Hill. Five-course Spanish-influenced menus (A$75) combine well with Hay Shed Hill's award-winning cabernet franc and tempranillo wines.
4pm Even if you're exceedingly full after lunch, it's worth stopping at Temper Temper Fine Chocolate in Cowaramup. Flavours include grapefruit and fennel and honeycomb and dukkah, and there's an attached shop selling other edible local products that make ideal gifts for friends and family.
7.30pm Aka "The Tav", Margaret River's Settlers Tavern is a favourite watering hole for the region's winemakers. They're drawn by the area's best wine list, frosty local beers and classic pub meals like chicken parma and salt and pepper squid. Check out the band posters for past gigs from Aussie's finest, also including a signed poster from New Zealand's very own Shihad when they were performing as Pacifier.
Getting there and around
Air New Zealand has direct flights from Auckland to Perth. From Perth, the Margaret River region is an easy three to four-hour drive south.
Where to stay
Framed by grassy lawns and eucalyptus trees, Peppermint Brook Cottages' quiet and good value self-contained units are located an easy stroll to Margaret River town. Search for Peppermint Brook Cottages on booking.com