A celebration of nature at Phillip Island, south of Melbourne, has Paul Rush observing a nocturnal parade with night-vision binoculars.
KEY POINTS:
Victoria's most impressive, best attended and longest running evening show is a spectacular mass parade on a lonely beach on Phillip Island.
It is staged every night without fail, in pitch darkness.
It employs a cast of thousands of veteran actors, watched intently by a spellbound audience measured in the hundreds.
I have come to Summerland Beach on Phillip Island, a two-hour drive south of Melbourne, to meet the plucky little fairy penguins, the smallest of their species. I have heard of their courage in facing huge predators in the ocean and merciless birds of prey on land and of their selfless dedication to their offspring.
Sunset on Summerland Beach is a special time. The air is still, the water calm and silence reigns. We are hunkered down in a sandy gully on a secluded part of the beach, cradling our "Desert Storm" style night-vision binoculars, an innovation on the personalised Ultimate Penguin Tour.
I soon spot gentle ripples on the silky-smooth sea. Shapeless forms emerge from the water and gather into "rafts" or small groups, for added security against possible attacks by swamp hawks, sea eagles, foxes and dogs.
Our night binoculars reveal a surreal green world in which the dark forms on the beach are instantly recognisable. The nearest group balance precariously on their webbed feet and lean forward almost to the horizontal to maintain balance, then march in unison like well-drilled soldiers plodding over the hard-packed sand. Their walk reminds me of Charlie Chaplin's ungainly gait - ultra short legs carrying "happy feet" in a comical procession.
The first penguin raft comes within 5 metres of our "hide" and goes into a huddle for an urgent team discussion. A full moon has just risen directly behind us, silhouetting our heads. We must appear as ghostly apparitions to our cautious aquatic friends.
The group edge forward, bending over to lower their profile, bunched closely together, eyes fixed on the intruders. As they draw level, we can almost read their minds "the worst part is almost over guys, let's make a run for it".
A dozen ridiculously short webbed feet, clearly designed for directional control at sea, are suddenly galvanised into a frantic staccato of movement, throwing up a slip-stream of sand as they gallop up the gully. Later groups display the whole gambit of human-like reactions from nervousness to boldness and even nonchalance. Some even pause to preen their feathers and gaze curiously at our huddled group.
The night-vision binoculars reveal their studied look of determination to succeed as they resolve to reach their burrows and reunite with their families. If the fishing has been poor it may have been several days or even weeks since their last contact.
After an hour we retrace our steps up the formed path through the dunes. Everywhere we see the little forms standing outside their burrows in pairs, all extremely voluble and animated.
Our guide Tony Morris explains their conduct. "It's like they're getting to know their partners again after a long absence at sea and it often results in much intimacy accompanied by even more noise." These are passionate and sometimes promiscuous little fellows.
Surprisingly, while little penguins have the most complex vocalisation of all their species on land, all they do at sea is quack like a duck.
At the Penguin Tour Base, Morris shows us a taxidermy model of the little penguin to demonstrate the colour differentiation. Their dark blue back has evolved to deceive sea birds looking down on a dark sea. The white tuxedo-like underbelly equally confuses sharks peering up towards the sunlight.
In summer, penguins breed and raise two chicks. At four months the chicks are forcefully removed from the nest to fend for themselves. In autumn they stay at sea to feed, almost doubling their body weight before returning to shore, and the 17-day "annual moult".
In winter they continue their endless quest for food, staying at sea for weeks. It's a never-ending battle for survival. Some live to be 26 years old but the majority doesn't make it past seven years on Phillip Island because of predators.
Observing these lovable little fishermen coming home from the sea is a truly memorable wildlife experience. Long may they hold a beachhead in our hearts.
If you go
Victoria's greatest wildlife attraction draws half a million visitors to Phillip Island each year. There are four ways to experience the nightly show within the Phillip Island Park.
* The Penguin Parade - watching the little penguins waddle up Summerland Beach from large stands.
* Penguins Plus - a closer viewing platform and boardwalk limited to 150 people. Rangers provide interpretation.
* Penguin Sky Box - an elevated viewing tower complete with ranger intrepretation for five people 16 years and over.
* Ultimate Penguin Tour - a personalised experience for up to 15 people on a secluded beach complete with a ranger commentary, night-vision technology and headphones.
Photography and video are banned as the penguins' eyes are sensitive to flashes of light.
Accommodation
Phillip Island has a complete range to suit all budgets.
Links
www.penguins.org.au
www.phillipisland.com.au
www.visitphillipisland.com.au
www.holmwoodguesthouse.com.au
*Paul Rush travelled to Phillip Island courtesy of Australian Tourist Commission.
