KEY POINTS:
Surfers Paradise, with its high-rises, neon lights and rolling waves is only half an hour's drive away, but this is a different world of lush forest, noisy birds, charming trails and pristine waterfalls.
Binna Burra Mountain Lodge is headquarters for more than 160km of walking tracks which lie on 35ha within World Heritage-listed Lamington National Park.
When the weather on the beach gets a bit cool - or even too hot - many tourists head inland to the lodge and its varied programme of walks followed by evenings in front of log fires, wining and dining, and fun and games in this sanctuary within a sanctuary.
Lamington park's 20,600ha are home to an amazing range of wildlife including koalas, pademelons (small kangaroos), possums, goannas, 600 colourful species of birds, plus a few scaries such as snakes and spiders.
Binna Burra, the lodge inside the park, takes its name from a phrase in the local Aboriginal language meaning "where the beeches grow", some of the beech trees here being around 2000 years old.
The lodge provides interpretive, escorted walks along tracks through rainforests led by expert guides such as the internationally experienced Barry Davies.
They vary in time from 30 minutes to eight hours and cost between $15 and $50, or you can go your own unescorted way without charge.
The tracks pass stately tall trees, many identified on signposts, wind over heathland and through rainforests with vines, palms, ferns, waterfalls and streams.
The longest is the Border Track linking Binna Burra with the Green Mountains to the west, site of another eco-resort, O'Reilly's. It's 21km one way, with bus transport provided for the way back.
Trampers hardy enough to make this journey are rewarded with spectacular views around the national park plus the Tweed Range and Mt Warning, across the New South Wales border.
Most of the other walks radiate from the Border Track, some specially for bird-watchers and cave enthusiasts.
One unique challenge is the Senses Trail. Designed for blind people it is also open to those prepared to blindfold themselves and find out what it's like to be sightless, walking with a sighted colleague reading to them from a brochure and identifying the flora and fauna en route.
The 500m-long trail was the first of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere. It has 13 stopping places with signs in braille. A rope guides walkers along the trail, and small rope tails hanging from it warn there's a step coming: one tail for a step down, two for a step up.
The idea is for the blind or blind-folded participants to use their other senses along the way, adding a whole new dimension to experiencing the rainforest.
The lodge has a choice of other activities, outdoors and indoors. For something a little more adventurous there's abseiling with expert supervision. Or you can zip along a 165m flying fox, rather more up-to-date than the horse-drawn version that used to carry guests' luggage up the hill to the lodge in the 1930s.
There's also a health spa if your muscles aren't used to all this exercise.
Evenings at the lodge begin at 5.30pm when guests carry their drinks from the bar for a get-together over a cheese platter in the upstairs library.
Here, activities manager Carolyn (Caz) Eaton introduces newcomers to the lodge's history and facilities.
After dinner in the Clifftop Dining Room, there may be eco-documentaries or movies in the library, or games in the logfire warmth of the main lounge.
Or, if you want to get back into the great outdoors, there may be a complimentary night walk spotlighting wildlife.
For children, the Echidna Club offers special activities every Saturday evening, on long weekends and during school holidays.
FURTHER INFORMATION
Binna Burra Mountain Lodge is 75km from Brisbane and 36km from Nerang on the Pacific Highway, on sealed roads all the way. Full details of accommodation, meals and activities are at www.binnaburralodge.com.au.
*James Shrimpton was a guest of Binna Burra Lodge.
- AAP