The view from Mt Donald McLean lookout in the Waitakeres.
Ask every Aucklander what he or she loves about the city, and you'll likely get a million answers. We hit the road to find the best of our city of contrasts.
Pukaki marae, of Te Akitai hapu of Te Waiohua is said to be the oldest marae in the Tamaki Makaurau region, traced back to the arrival of the Tainui waka. It was based around the Pukaki Lagoon near Mangere but early buildings were demolished when the airport planned expansion in the early 1960s and not replaced until 2004. Instead, head over to Otuataua Stonefields (Ihumatao Quarry Rd, Mangere) to see remnants of the city's last large-scale stoneworks and earthworks in the volcanic area, with archaeological remains of thriving communities from hundreds of years ago.
The city has just celebrated its 175th birthday, but we don't have many buildings that hint at the city much before the 1860s. On a walk around the city, Ponsonby and Parnell you can see gorgeous examples of Victorian and Edwardian buildings, still occupied, but if you want to look behind the doors, explore Kinder House in Parnell, one of the few early stone buildings built in the city commissioned by Bishop Selwyn in 1857. It is open for visits and for hire. 2 Ayr St, Parnell.
Highwic House is one of the three historic houses run by Heritage New Zealand. On a hectare of gardens on the edge of busy Newmarket, it was built in 1862 and extended in 1873. It stayed in the family of Alfred and Eliza Buckland (there were plenty of descendants, the Bucklands had 21 children) until 1978. 40 Gillies Ave (enter from Mortimer Pass).
Mt Albert's Albertson, built in 1863, has the look of the Raj about it and is famous for its high teas, Victorian balls, and heritage garden. 100 Mt Albert Road. The kauri Ewelme Cottage in Parnell was built by Reverend Vicesimus Lush and his wife Blanche in 1863-64 and still has well-preserved interiors and furnishings, original artworks, a charming garden and - reputedly - a friendly ghost or two. 14 Ayr St.
If you prefer your history curated for you, head to Auckland Museum, Voyager New Zealand Maritime Museum or the Museum of Transport and Technology, or Howick's Historical Village.
There are cranes all over Auckland, but brand, shiny new public building has had a bit of a hiatus for the past two or three years.
So head out to Titirangi to check out the Te Uru Waitakere Contemporary Gallery, which opened last November. The new gallery, designed by Mitchell & Stout architects, was added on to old Lopdell House, as part of a complex of galleries, theatre and community spaces. It has some challenging art (don't miss Black Rainbow, the work of leading artists, Ralph Hotere and Michael Parekowhai which runs until March 1). 420 Titirangi Rd.
We're still huge fans of the Auckland Art Gallery, still winning awards for its gorgeous blend of old and new, re-opened in 2011. It won World Architecture Festival's 2013 World Building of the Year, the rotating exhibition of old and new art is stimulating, the calendar of films, lectures and events always worth checking out.
Then head through Albert Park and up to the University of Auckland campus to check out some great new buildings, including the business school plus some cool examples of 70s, 80s and 90s architecture. Search "places of interest" at auckland.ac.nz.
Who needs the South Island, when right on the city doorstep we have more than 16,000 hectares of native forest and coastline in the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park? With a slew of beaches - Anawhata, Cornwallis, Huia, Karekare, Piha, Te Henga-Bethells and Whatipu - 250km of walking and tramping tracks, campgrounds and baches, the Waitakeres could keep you busy for a long time. Plan your trip from the Arataki Visitor Centre (300 Scenic Drive, Titirangi).
Build up to walking the 70 kilometres of the Hillary Trail, a self-guided four-day tramp through lush native forest and along the wild coast, including Muriwai's gannet colony and the famous Kitekite waterfalls. You can also make day walks, or stay more comfortabley at local lodges.
Closer to the city, check out the big beaches of Long Bay, or head north to more space on the golden sands of Tawharanui or Wenderholm.
Ponsonby is more than just groovy restaurants, designer shops and million-dollar houses. Tucked around the suburb are some of the city's tiniest parks, aptly known as pocket parks, that provided pretty respites for Victorians from their crowded worker cottages and tiny yards. The tiniest ones are on Pompallier Terrace/Redmond St corner, or off Renall, England and Elizabeth Streets in Freemans Bay, but there are also intriguing hidden parks off Vermont St (opposite Vermont Place), Brown St and Pratt St.
When you've had your fill of shopping and eating, daytime in Auckland is all about heading outdoors. March yourself and your children around Wynyard Quarter at the western end of the waterfront - the playgrounds, the eateries of North Wharf and the ASB building, the Seafood Market, and food trucks around Silo Park. Look for the hidden art, or bring bikes and pedal along the brand new promenade and board walks around Westhaven Marina.
Or from the city, head east past the red gates of the wharves and out along Tamaki Drive: bike, roller blade, hire kayaks or delve into the underground fish tanks of Kelly Tarlton's Sealife aquarium.
Or take the train or bus to the city, jump on a ferry and putter somewhere - 10 minutes to Devonport, 15 minutes to Birkenhead or further afield to Hobsonville Point, Pine Harbour or Half Moon Bay. Or make a day of it, with a 35-minute ride to Waiheke - lunch at the gorgeous Oyster Inn, a ramble around the wineries or hang at the beaches.
You can still get out on the harbour at night too. A summer treat is the guided sunset kayak tour to Rangitoto Island to watch the sun go down and the lights come up (the food is good too). This summer saw the launch of dinner or overnight cruises around the Waitemata Harbour and out to some of the closer islands.
Friday evenings for city workers have vastly improved since the launch of Silo Markets at the waterfront - great food trucks, brews and bean bags in front of the open air movie screen.
Foodies know the weekly schedule of the huge night markets around town. Nothing fancy - most are in mall carparks - but there is terrific food from practically every ethnic group in Auckland at ridiculously low prices. The bizarre shops around the fringes, entertainers, fortune tellers, just add to the sense of discovery. Tuesdays at Mt Wellington, Wednesdays at Botany Town Centre, Thursdays at Onehunga DressSmart, Fridays at Henderson and Papatoetoe, Saturdays in Pakuranga and Sundays in Glenfield.
At the posher end of the scale, it's hard to beat the glamour of dinner at the top of the Sky Tower. Choose from the revolving restaurant or slip into Peter Gordon's glamorous Sugar Club. The city has never looked better.
The five-star Grand Pacific Hotel in Suva offers the perfect blend of old and new.