For over half a millennium, the empire stretched from Budapest to Baghdad with Istanbul as its glittering capital.
And if you develop a penchant for palaces, the ornate, over-the-top Dolmabahce Saraya sits on the banks of the Bosphorus like a giant, melting wedding cake. With more than 4000 shops, the Grand Bazaar is the ultimate place to pick up gifts, and the Spice Bazaar is nearby.
At night, walk over the Galata Bridge from historical Sultanahmet to Beyoglu, the new city, to clap eyes on contemporary Turkey. Survey the rooftops from the Galata Tower and wander up stiklal Caddesi, or catch an antique tram, past shops selling everything from Turkish delight to Western brands.
With 16 million people, Istanbul is a hectic city and the best way to escape is to jump on a ferry. Take a cruise up the Bosphorus - catch an DO ferry (http://tinyurl.com/25eaa6j) as they travel the whole way to the Black Sea. The locals' favourite day out is the Princes Islands, one hour away in the Sea of Marmara.
The largest island, Buyukada ("big island"), is well set up for cycling and horse and cart rides. However, it gets busy at weekends and I much prefer Heybeliada.
With its tumbledown wooden villas, the island gives a taste of the picturesque Ottoman towns found in rural Turkey and it feels miles away from Istanbul's mosques and palaces.
Phnom Penh to Angkor Wat
I am planning to travel to Cambodia at the end of the year staying mainly in Phnom Penh. Is it possible to buy/organise entrance to Angkor Wat from there? Are there buses or other public transport I can use to travel from Phnom Penh to Angkor Wat and back again? How long should I allow to see the temple properly? And, what sort of costs would I be looking at for all this?
- L Carter
Tamara Sheward, presenter of the Cambodia episode of Lonely Planet Television's Roads Less Travelled series, writes:
Weather-wise, you've picked the perfect time to go. Cambodia's brutal humidity has been all but banished by November's cooling breezes and you won't get bogged down by wet season monsoons. It's also the busiest time of the year, so booking ahead is highly recommended.
Alas, buying entry passes to Angkor Wat is one thing you won't be able to do in advance. Non-transferable tickets are only available from the official sales booth on the outskirts of Angkor. Beware of any guesthouse or guide that tells you otherwise: security is strict at the park and you'll be fined if they catch you with a dodgy pass.
Whether you're typically a sightseer or not, you'll want at least three days to explore the sprawling splendour of Angkor. A three-day pass ($54) is valid for use within a week. Hiring a local guide ($27-$34) for at least one day is a great way to get a handle on what can be an overwhelming array of otherwise cryptic ruins.
Getting to Siem Reap, gateway town to the temple complex, from Phnom Penh has never been easier. A surplus of bus companies ply the well-paved National Route No6 several times a day, with fares for the 5-6 hour trip ranging from $6.80 (standard bus) to $20 (lux-bus).
Tickets can be bought from most guesthouses or well-marked ticket booths in the capital and Siem Reap.
A more adventurous option is to catch a boat between the two, although this will bump up your costs and travel time (six hours, plus inevitable delays/breakdowns). Since you'll be visiting during the dry season, check in advance if boats are running.
Siem Reap, a 10-20 minute tuk tuk ride from the main temple entrance (there is no accommodation within Angkor), is bursting with everything from pricey resorts to budget guesthouses. Check out angkorhotels.org and see the Thorn Tree for travellers' takes on local digs.
