Ask Lonely Planet: Rome around ancient relics

St Peter's Basilica and the surrounding square are big tourist magnets. Photo / Jim Eagles

We have four days in Rome, with two days booked for tours outside Rome. Is it best to organise an arranged tour of the city sights or can it be done easily ourselves? Walking is not a problem and we are staying near the Vatican.
Brent Byers

Rome has a long-held reputation for its traffic congestion and manic drivers - which might make you squirm at the thought of managing the city on foot. Ironically, Rome's historic city centre is also one of the great sightseeing highlights of the world to take a walking tour. Sure, there will be moments when this anarchic clash of ancient and modern may all seem a bit too much, but then you'll turn a corner and find a cafe in a quiet medieval courtyard, perfect for sipping a drink and enjoying la dolce vita.

With so much to see and do in Rome, and only two days to spend in the city, you'll need to be very selective with your itinerary. The Vatican Museums alone could easily take up a full day, so if the Vatican isn't an immovable must on your itinerary you could consider soaking up the splendour of St Peter's Square, followed by a visit to St Peter's Basilica instead.

Cross the lovely Pont Sant'Angelo bridge, flanked by statues of angels by the baroque sculptor Bernini, and wander through Rome's historic city centre. Stop off at a cafe at Piazza Navona, admire the classic symmetry of the Pantheon, drop into an art gallery or church, then throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain to make sure you return to Rome for a longer visit one day.

On your next day you might want to explore the remnants of ancient Rome at the Forum and Colosseum, followed by a visit to the Capitoline Museums, with plenty of stops for gelati, pasta, wine or a Campari along the way.

If an urban experience is more to your liking, you could spend an afternoon or evening wandering the medieval streets of Trastevere. Crammed with ochre facades, labyrinthine laneways and vintage trattorias, Trastevere's heart is the lovely Roman Square Piazza Santa Maria.

Trekking Morocco
My husband and I are travelling to Morocco in October for four weeks. We would like to do some trekking for three or four days in the High Atlas Mountains and we were hoping you could recommend some Morocco-based tour companies. Would we need camping gear? We will be travelling around the country using local transport. What is the best way to get to the Todra Gorge area from Fez, and to Erg Chebbi?
Daniela Giani

The highest mountain range in North Africa, the High Atlas runs diagonally across Morocco, covering a distance of almost 1000km. The Toubkal region contains the highest peaks and is the most frequently visited area of the High Atlas. It's only two hours from Marrakech and is easily accessed by public transport.

Numerous foreign and Moroccan operators offer trekking tours in the High Atlas Mountains. A few companies worth looking at are Atlas Sahara Trek, Nature Trekking Maroc and Sahara Expedition . Tour companies will supply sleeping bags, but you may want to travel with a lightweight sleeping bag liner. Alternatively, you could shop around for a tour when you get to Morocco, or ask your hotel for a recommendation. This way, you get to choose your guide and probably get a better price.

Getting around Morocco is easy. A network of buses operates, with private companies competing for business alongside the main national carrier, Compagnie de Transports au Maroc (CTM). Morocco's train network, the Office National des Chemins de Fer (ONCF), runs buses through Supratours. It's best to book ahead for CTM and Supratours buses when you arrive. ONCF and Supratours will get you from Fez to Tinerhir, a few kilometres from the Todra Gorge, as a full-day trip, followed by a local grand taxi. Erg Chebbi is Morocco's only Saharan erg - an impressive, drifting chain of sand dunes that can reach 160m. Without your own transport you'll need to travel from Fez to Rissani, then take a taxi or minibus from Rissani to Merzouga.

Due to the ongoing threat of terrorism, there is some risk to your security. The New Zealand Government strongly encourages travellers to record their details at kiwisoverseas.govt.nz. Read MFAT's travel advisory for Morocco at safetravel.govt.nz