Discover the nightlife in Japan's Fukuoka City. Photo / Emily McAuliffe
Discover the nightlife in Japan's Fukuoka City. Photo / Emily McAuliffe
Everyone should explore Fukuoka after dark, writes Emily McAuliffe
Fukuoka, Japan’s sixth-largest city, located on the island of Kyushu, is a lively but often overlooked city in the land of the rising sun. While great for sightseeing during the day, the city has a special buzz after dark, with its youthful vibe and bright neon lights reminiscent of a scaled-back Tokyo.
Go on a sunset cruise
The best way to watch the city transition from day to night is from the water, and a number of companies offer cruises around Hakata Bay and along the Naka River.
The best way to watch the city transition from day to night is from the water. Photo / Emily McAuliffe
Get a feel for Fukuoka’s role as an important trading hub as you cruise past the port, then chug out to the bay to see an orange sunset behind the city. From the water you can see the lights flick on to illuminate Hakata Port Tower, framed by the silhouette of palm trees, the glitz of the Canal City shopping and entertainment precinct, and rows of yatai stalls setting up for their nightly trade (see next point).
There’s a chance the commentary will be in Japanese, but a cruise is worth it for the visuals, particularly given a 45-minute cruise will only set you back around 1500 yen ($17). The guide on our cruise, which departed from the jetty beneath the pretty Fukuhaku Deai Bridge, performed a set of Japanese songs between commentary, and we were able to purchase drinks to take on board. river-cruise.jp
Eat yatai-style
Fukuoka is famous for its “yatai” – small food stands that pop up every night from around 6pm until midnight (though some don’t shut up shop until 2am). The tiny spaces generally seat between 8 to 15 people, crammed elbow to elbow around a small kitchen, and serve simple and tasty Japanese street food. You can yatai-hop and try a dish or two at different stalls, or enjoy a full feed at just one (but note, these are not places for lingering – there’ll often be a line to get in, so once you’ve finished eating, it’s polite to move on).
Small food stands called Yatai pop up every night. Photo / Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association
Dishes vary between stalls, and many will have a speciality, whether it be crispy gyoza, Hakata’s famous tonkotsu ramen, or charred yakitori (meat skewers). There are about 100 stalls in Fukuoka city, with a row of yatai found along the bank of the Hakata river near Canal City, as well as along the streets of Tenjin (the other side of the river). Others are randomly scattered around the CBD. Take a punt on any and don’t forget to bring cash – most won’t accept cards.
A row of yatai are found along the bank of the Hakata river near Canal City.
Photo / Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism Association
Go bar hopping
Relative to the total population, there are a high proportion of young people living in Fukuoka, drawn to the city’s universities from other parts of Kyushu. It’s unsurprising then that Fukuoka has an active nightlife.
There are many bars in both Hakata and Tenjin (i.e. both sides of the river), where you can try sake, beer, Japanese whisky, and shochu – a spirit native to the island of Kyushu, typically made with sweet potato, barley or rice.
Good areas to check out are Daimyo and Nakasu (which is actually an island hugged by a split in the river). In the latter neighbourhood, you’ll find Ningyou Syouji – a narrow lantern-lit alleyway packed with tiny, unassuming bars.
Nakasu is also where you’ll find Fukuoka’s red-light district. It might not be your jam, but don’t rule out the idea of taking a stroll through the streets as the night wears on. This area is full of buzz and character and, despite its grit, it feels relatively safe, because, this is Japan after all. Here you’ll also find gaming arcades and karaoke spots.
Don’t rule out the idea of taking a stroll through the streets at night. Photo / Emily McAuliffe
Zip up Fukuoka Tower
At 234m, Fukuoka Tower is the city’s tallest building and was built in 1989 to coincide with the Asia Pacific Exhibition, Yokatopia. At night, you can watch the city sparkle below from a 123m-high observation deck, which looks out over the bay and sprawling city. There’s a dining area and bar on the floor below the observation area, and, if you’re happy to pay a small price to express your affections, you can buy a coloured heart-shaped padlock, mark it with a message, and affix it to the railing. It’s Fukuoka’s version of Paris’ ‘Love Lock’ bridge.
The tower is located by the beach in Momochi (the western side of the city), and is most easily reached by taxi or a bus from Tenjin. The observation deck is open until 10pm.
At 234 metres, Fukuoka Tower is the city’s tallest building. Photo / Fukuoka City
Like many Japanese cities, Fukuoka has more to it than what you can see at street level. Tenjin’s underground shopping mall (Tenjin Chikagai) is the largest of its kind in Kyushu, stretching for almost 600m. Beneath the bustling streets you’ll find fashion, food, cosmetics and souvenir shops in a paved European-style mall. Stores are open until 8pm and the mall connects to the subway station.
Stay in style
When it’s time to tuck in for the night, Fukuoka has stylish and familiar hotels like the Hilton and Grand Hyatt (plus, the Ritz Carlton is due to open this year) and a selection of mid-range and budget accommodation options in the city centre. There are also a number of traditional ryokans to choose from, which can add to your cultural experience. These Japanese inns typically have tatami-mat floors, futon beds and low tables with cushion seats. Try the upscale Hotel Cultia in Dazaifu, which is outside the city centre near the Tenmangu Shrine (cultia-dazaifu.com), or the Tsurezure An in Hakata (tsurezure-an.jp).
Stay at the upscale Hotel Cultia in Dazaifu.
Photo / Hotel Cultia
