An exquisite wilderness in Australia

In a fortnight we meet one man. Hard to believe, considering we are surrounded by such striking scenery. Sailing the turquoise seas along the Kimberley Coast aboard True North, we watch sharks, dugongs, turtles, dolphins and humpback whales.

We picnic at deserted beaches, marvel at tides revealing huge reefs and islands formed from rocks looking like jumbled piles of children's building blocks.

Cruising along vast rivers lined with mangroves or towering walls of colourful rocks, we compete with crocodiles to catch barramundi and admire sandstone rocks decorated with art.

We wallow in waterfalls decorated with water lilies as flocks of red-tailed black cockatoos and pairs of elegant brahminy kites fly below lone sea eagles soaring in the thermals.



The magnificent Kimberley Coast in the far northwest of Australia, would be teeming with tourists if it didn't stretch between Broome, 2200km north of Perth and Wyndham, more than 800km west of Darwin. Most of the coast is only accessible by boat, light plane or helicopter.

Everything is dictated by the tides. As big as 11m, the Kimberley tides are the second-largest in the world after Nova Scotia and create natural wonders, such as Montgomery Reef and the Horizontal Waterfalls.

Montgomery Reef in the midst of the Timor Sea is a spectacle you can't see until the tide rushes out and the expansive reef emerges.

Almost as spectacular are the Horizontal Waterfalls in the middle of Talbot Bay, where two masses of water meet. As the tides turn, they form two water levels in the middle of the sea.



There are about 3000 islands off the Kimberley Coast and 800 in the Buccaneer Archipelago.

Many are rocky outcrops formed from an array of slabs of sandstone. Some look like sculptures, some are so precariously balanced you think they may tumble at any minute.

The coast is an ancient sandstone plateau with rugged escarpments and broad alluvial plains dating back 2000 million years. This rocky terrain with its numerous caves and overhangs is ideal for rock art, particularly Wandjina and Bradshaw rock art. Typically, the Wandjina are large paintings of mouthless faces. The much older Bradshaw works are small, elegant figures.



Some suggest the Wandjina were painted by visitors from outer space. Others attribute the work to shipwrecked sailors from Indonesia or Borneo.

The finely painted Bradshaw figures invariably feature elongated headdresses, armlets and tassels, and dainty skirts. Painted in red hues, they are often depicted in groups holding boomerangs and spears.

Some Aborigines think they are the work of a small bird, which struck its beak on a rock until it bled and then used the blood to paint with either its beak, feathers or tail.

We are lucky to see the excellent Wandjina site on the deserted beach of Bigge Island in the Bonaparte Archipelago. In catacombs, there is a perfect example of a Wandjina face, a rainbow serpent snaking across the ceiling, and a sailing ship, which may illustrate Abel Tasman sailing these seas in 1644.

Today, there is no sign of human habitation on this beach, just some lizard tracks, green turtle diggings and slide marks from the two resident large saltwater crocodiles.

We need binoculars to see the crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks of the enormous Prince Regent River. The Prince Regent Basin includes so many inlets and islands we can't find the river but as we steam inland, it is defined by high, jumbled King Leopold sandstone cliffs and their peach and copper-toned reflections shimmering in the water.

The colours of the sandstone cliffs rising from the Hunter River are even more vibrant. Horizontal layers of orange, burnt sienna, grey, mauve, cream and salmon pink, contrast with charcoal vertical lines. Spindly gums poke through the rockface entwined with the roots of mangroves.

But the piece de resistance is the King George Gorge. The 12km journey up the gorge has us on the edge of our seats and we are aghast at the twin waterfalls pounding down from the plateau 80m above.Then the captain drives the boat up to the waterfall and we shriek with excitement standing under this thrilling, memorable Kimberley massage.

Anchoring alongside the King's Cascade in a small inlet off the Prince Regent River is a different experience. It flows over horizontal layers of rocks. Ferns and moss cascade over the edge, like an exquisite hanging garden.

Although we can't swim in saltwater, we find many beautiful freshwater swimming holes. Towards the end of the Sale River, we clamber along a babbling brook shaded by an ancient rainforest with rock figs and paperbark trees harbouring nests of green ants and webs of golden orb spiders.

Even more enjoyable are picnics beside waterfalls filling rock holes bordered with pandanus palms and painted with patches of water lilies. In shelters decorated with Bradshaw art we feast on oysters, mud crabs, mangrove jack and barramundi.

The fishing along the Kimberley Coast is so good even novices are successful. We catch mangrove jack, fingermark bream and salmon. The lure of the elusive, lustrous barramundi casts a spell over many anglers.

Our fishing guide catches a barra so big it won't fit in the Esky, but even more exciting is the Queenslander who hooked the crocodile at the bottom of its lower jaw.

The best aspect of fishing is the chance to sit and savour the spectacular surroundings. This solitude is perfect to muse over my one nagging question - should I let the cat out of the bag and tell everyone about this exquisite wilderness?

Getting there:

Fly to Melbourne or Sydney to make a connecting flight to Broome or Darwin.

When to go:

Wet season December to May. April is best to see the waterfalls. August has the most pleasant climate. Kimberley Coast cruising Boats steaming the Kimberley Coast depart and arrive from either Broome or Wyndham in Western Australia. It may be worthwhile buying an "Air Pass". Ask your travel agent for details when booking.

Seeing the coast:

The cruise featured starts from A$7500 ($8500) a person for 13 nights plus flights.

True North has a strong focus on wining, dining and fancy dress parties rather than expert guiding. Maximum of 28 passengers.

Coral Princess. Upmarket with informative lectures, slide/film presentations. Maximum 48 passengers. Prices from A$5290 ($6000) for a 10-night cruise.

www.coralprincess.com.au

Kimberley Quest. Flexible itineraries from 4 to 14 days. Maximum 16 passengers. Prices from A$7005 ($7940) a person for a 14-day cruise.

www.pearlseacruises.com

Don't fancy cruising? Consider staying on land at remote Faraway Bay and the Kimberley Coastal Camp, campsites open just for the dry season. They are accessible only by sea or air, and pamper guests.

www.farawaybay.com.au

www.kimberleycoastalcamp.com.au

Less luxurious but very beautiful is remote Kooljaman, Cape Leveque, with cabins, beach shelters, safari tents and campsites.

www.kooljaman.com.au

www.northstarcharters.com.au

www.westernaustralia.net

* Jennifer Grimwade was hosted by North Star Charters.