An artist's hideaway in the heart of Nelson

By SUE FARLEY

At the end of the entry hall at 39 Russell Sunflowers 2000 takes pride of place . Its fabulous colours -- rich purple, deep carmine, yellow and amethyst -- glow under soft spotlights as the evening darkens.

This was our hostess Jane Evans' first painting for the millennium, so for her it's rather special; since arriving I have also admired the other artwork on the walls, in the kitchen and the bathrooms, and dotted around the lounge. This place bubbles with creative energy, making me want to curl up on the sofa and start reading straight away.

But first there's dinner, so it's time to head to the long outdoor table under the vine-covered pergola and light the candles before opening a bottle of wine and toasting our extreme good fortune to be staying in such civilised surroundings.

In 1906, 39 Russell was built as a fisherman's cottage, on a steep hillside overlooking Port Nelson. Back then, before the reclamation was done, the port was much smaller, and closer to home at the bottom of the street.

Evans, a well-known Nelson artist, has lived on this hill for the past 18 years and she jumped at the opportunity to buy the cottage next to her own home and studio when it came up for sale. Now refurbished in a rich, visual style of custom metal and woodwork and sumptuous colours, and adorned with her own and other top Nelson artists' works, it has become a place where people come to visit and don't want to leave.

There are many places to stay around the Nelson region. Some are by the beach and others near the mountains, but there are few quality, private places to stay right in the city. Evans loves the closeness of Russell St to the centre of town. A Saturday-morning trip to the market, she says, is a must for fresh fruit and flowers and local art and crafts.

It's only a short drive out to any number of good wineries and restaurants, or an easy walk to Nelson's waterfront restaurant strip along Wakefield Quay.

But, as Evans says, many guests just like to stay in. Before guests arrive the cupboards are stocked with fresh salad veges, local cheeses and pastas, good Nelson wines and a huge bowl of fruit. The pantry is full of supplies and the kitchen is equipped for a dinner party for 10 if needed. The laden bookshelves and CD rack lessen the need to go out even further, and a long soak in the slipper-shaped bath in the master en suite must be the deciding factor.

The cottage is set up to sleep four with one double and one twin bedroom, and two bathrooms. Artworks include intriguing pottery by Christine Boswijck and Katie Gold. Ornate steel work by Glenn van der Leay and Mark Healey creates a unique turn on interior joinery, and the brightly coloured kitchen crockery is by Mapua ceramicist Mike Perry. Evans has gone to great lengths to share her artist's joy of life and colour with her guests. Every sense is quietly satisfied as the day meanders past.

A real treat for guests is the opportunity to visit Evans' studio as part of their stay. Evans is one of New Zealand's most successful living artists and she has a waiting list a lifetime long of people wanting her work. Visiting her studio and seeing the trays and tubes of acrylics and the stacks of waiting canvas, the comfy cane chairs by the fireside and walls lined with sketches and prints leaves a lasting impression of creative wonder.

Returning to the cottage to absorb the vivid imagery of this talented artist's work over a glass of chilled white wine is about all my mind can handle after that.

Where

39 Russell is just 2km from Nelson city centre, heading around towards Tahunanui. Easy taxi ride from the airport and there is off-street parking by the cottage.

Cost

$400 a night for two, $40 a night for each extra, with a minimum stay of three nights.

Eating

A full kitchen is supplied with fresh fruit, veges, pasta, cheeses, bread and cereals. A chef is available for entertaining catering if required. Meals can be taken in the garden or eaten in the dining area, and there are several excellent restaurants within walking distance.

Things to do

Nelson is well known for its art and crafts. South St and the Suter Gallery are musts, the Saturday-morning market in the city and a wine trail are also mandatory.

Day trips include Nelson Lakes, Abel Tasman and Kahurangi national parks, Mapua for lunch, a boat trip on the harbour, and a walk along Tahunanui beach or up the Maitai Valley.

Nelson restaurants are improving, and there are spaces available on yachts racing on Wednesday nights.