An art-warming haven near Nelson

By SUE FARLEY

When the early settlers arrived at Bronte Landing they had already endured a long sea voyage to New Zealand and a steamer ride across Tasman Bay to the Mapua Estuary. Then, if the tide was in, they would berth at a jetty and cross the stones and sand lining the estuary on foot. If not, it was a long wait until the tide returned so the boat could get in.

For me, an easy 20-minute drive from Nelson was all it took, but the beauty of the setting was just as striking as it was to the settlers.

Bronte Lodge sits on the end of a promontory that juts out into the Mapua Estuary, making it an ideal landing point from day one.

Surrounded by rolling hills now covered in apple orchards and vineyards, art and craft galleries of an international standard, and overlooking the water from sunrise to sunset, it is a highly desirable getaway.

The lodge itself isn't really a lodge in the true sense of the word, the accommodation being in beachfront suites that are self-contained if required. A family breakfast is served in the main house if you're feeling sociable or taken in your suite - you choose. Being a popular honeymoon spot, chances are a private breakfast will go down well.

But food aside, my interest was in the local art that Margaret Fraser, our host, has used in the suites. Commissioned works by some of Nelson's best artists and craftspeople add a whole new dimension to the decor. Each suite has large, bold works by Sally Burton, depicting the views out the windows in 100 hues - layers of mountains, clouds and sea coming to life on the walls.

Out the big bi-fold windows a diverse mix of estuarine and wading birds come and go throughout the year. Migratory birds including bar-tailed godwits, curlews and a resident colony of royal spoonbills attract birdwatchers from around the world. Their noisy chatter of the birds in summer is a great alarm clock.

Each suite has a private deck and bedrooms opening to the water, and the layout varies in each of the four Min Hall-designed suites to catch the best of the watery view and allow some privacy. On a big tide the water laps the front lawn.

Although Bronte Lodge is in the middle of Nelson's wine, art and adventure tourism areas, it provides a haven that is hard to leave. Who wants to hit the highway and battle with traffic and road rules when the tide is ambling gently in across the sand flats just in time to get the kayak out?

Water in the estuary means the channel is full and guests can take the dinghy across to Mapua and try out one of the good restaurants that now fill the old wharf and coolstore area.

At this time of year there's the heated pool in the garden to try. Or several hectares of garden to stroll through including beds of roses and cottage flowers - cosmos, dahlias and Michaelmas daisies.

Bronte Lodge is like the house everyone wants their father to own, presuming he has plenty of money. For me it felt just like home, only better.

* Sue Farley paid to stay at Bronte Lodge