Alternative France must-dos to the Paris Olympics this summer. Photo / 123rf
More than 15 million visitors will descend on France this summer for the Olympics and Paralympics. To avoid the crowds and astronomical prices, here are eight idyllic places with more breathing space, writes Victoria Trott
AN IMPRESSION OF NORMANDY
This year is the 150th anniversary of the Impressionist art movement. The name was inspired by Claude Monet’s painting Impression, Sunrise, displayed at the first exhibition of this new art form in Paris in 1874. More than 150 events are taking place around Normandy, where Monet was brought up (Le Havre) and lived out his remaining years (Giverny). The epicentre of the action is the region’s capital, Rouen, where the Musee des Beaux Arts is hosting an exhibition devoted to Alfred Sisley and the tourist office is offering guided Impressionist art and food tours. Don’t miss Rouen Cathedral, whose facade was painted by Monet more than 30 times in different light.
Creuse, in the centre of France, is the country’s least-visited and second-least-populated departement. Its natural spaces, especially the Millevaches Regional Natural Park, a Dark Sky Reserve, with a 10km sq reservoir, Lac de Vassiviere, make it a magnet for lovers of outdoor activities. The town of Aubusson is internationally renowned for tapestry production – the Cite Internationale de la Tapisserie tells the story of the industry’s 600-year history and inclusion in Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Creuse also has a link to the Impressionists – Claude Monet spent three months painting the river at Fresselines in 1889 and the area now has a tourist trail known as the Vallee des Peintres.
A GLASS OF COGNAC, ANYONE?
In 1724 a wine producer in southwestern France named Rémy Martin started making cognac, a kind of brandy named after the village where he lived and worked. The brand now specialises in Cognac Fine Champagne and this year, the 300th anniversary of the company’s founding, is a good time to pay a visit to one of its estates for a tasting. Tours range from a €20/$36 hour-long guided visit of the historic chateau to a €1500/$2711 day-long Louis XIII Experience including a tour of the private Grollet Estate, a gourmet lunch and tastings of their top tipple, Louis XIII cognac.
THE 2024 WORLD BOOK CAPITAL
Better known as the official seat of the European Parliament, Strasbourg is the first French Unesco World Book Capital. The largest city in northeast France has a long association with printed words – Johannes Gutenberg is thought to have invented mobile type while living in Strasbourg in the 1430s and Relation, considered to be the first printed European newspaper, was launched in the city in 1605. More than 200 literature-related or inspired events will take place this year from opera to art exhibitions. Librairie du Monde Entier is the place to go for English-language books.
HEAD FOR THE HILLS
Or to the Alps, to be more precise. Some mountain resorts have as much to offer in summer as they do in winter and Chamonix is undoubtedly the pick of the crop. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks including Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe, this is the place for high-adrenaline, high-altitude activities. A more relaxed stay might involve a round of golf, a dip in the outdoor public pool or a spa treatment in a luxury hotel. The four-day Fete des Guides de Chamonix in mid-August celebrates the local mountain guides with concerts, films, markets and parties.
60 YEARS OF MODERN ART
About half an hour inland from Nice, the Fondation Maeght, France’s first independent art foundation, celebrates its 60th birthday this year. For Aime and Marguerite Maeght, publishers and art dealers, this mid-century white building at the entrance to the hilltop village of Saint Paul de Vence, was not designed to be a museum but a place of creation and exchange as well as a venue for events. To mark the anniversary, the galleries have been enlarged and an exhibition dedicated to the friendship between Henri Matisse, Pierre Bonnard with Aime Maeght will run from June 29 June to October 6. Take the opportunity to try some of the delicious local dishes served on the pine-shaded cafe terrace.
A 275km cycle path, running from the island of Mont Saint Michel in the middle of France’s north coast down to the city of Nantes was launched this year. La Regalante, split into nine stages and skirting the east side of Brittany, follows voies vertes (green routes, usually disused railway lines) and back roads. Highlights along the trail include the fairytale medieval castles in the historic towns of Fougeres, Vitre and Chateaubriant. Reasonably flat, the route runs through forests, crosses marshes, passes lakes and loosely follows the River Erdre south. After a hard day’s cycling, there’s never been a better excuse to tuck into a crepe – Brittany’s most famous gourmet speciality.
RAMBLE THROUGH THE VINES
There are several ways to follow the wine routes through Burgundy, but on foot through the vineyards is arguably the most appealing. The GR Pays des Grands Crus walking trail runs for around 60km south of Dijon and is split into four stages, with plenty of opportunities to experience charming accommodation, great food and châteaux en route. The Chateau du Clos de Vougeot, whose walled vineyard (a ‘clos’) was created by monks in the 12th century, has an hour-long guided tour and tasting for €30/$54. In the town of Beaune, famed for its November wine auction and superb Saturday morning market, the Maison des Climats showcases Burgundy’s unique Unesco-listed wine-growing culture.
FIND A LITTLE DROP OF NZ IN PARIS
Perhaps you find yourself in Paris anyway and crave a breather. Home-grown winemaker, Villa Maria has partnered with the NZ Olympic team as the official wine supplier. Visit NZ House in Paris - the NZ Team hub and hospitality venue for athletes, friends and fans staying in Paris, and treat yourself to an award-winning Villa Maria wine, and a taste of home. NZ House is free to visit and located at the Marriott Champs-Elysee; you’ll find the Villa Maria bar on the rooftop terrace. It’s the perfect place to relax and watch our athletes in action, open every day of the games from 11am. Better yet, the first 50 punters to arrive at 5pm each day will get a complimentary glass of wine. Don’t miss the Villa Maria 75 cocktail (a Kiwi take on the classic French 75) and raise a glass of Cuvee Brut when the team secure a bronze, silver or gold.
Checklist
FRANCE
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Paris with one stopover with Emirates, Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines and Air NZ.