All this, and a view

If you thought cruising was just for the rich elderly who wanted a regimented holiday, PHOEBE FALCONER has news for you.

It is almost as long as three rugby fields and towers above Miami wharf. The brand-new cruise ship Norwegian Star is my playground for the next two days. And what a playground.

If your idea of cruising involves dressing up for dinner, 6.30 pm sharp at the captain's table, with people you would normally cross the road to avoid, and having your shipboard life regimented, this is not the holiday for you.

Norwegian Cruise Lines has introduced a new concept in holidays afloat, called freestyle cruising, and the old rules no longer apply. The aim is to broaden the appeal of cruising, traditionally thought of as the refuge of the elderly rich.

The scale of the mission is daunting. The ship has 10 restaurants with 11 different menus and 14 (count 'em) bars and lounges. Then there are the recreational facilities - the gym, the pool, the spas ...

The approach to this impressive playground leaves something to be desired. The dismal embarkation tunnel leads into a circular atrium stretching eight decks high, containing the reception desk, flower beds with small fountains, a row of shops and a tinkling piano somewhere nearby.

Here, the decor is fresh and light, giving an impression of space.

My first step is to check in, collect a key (actually, a swipe card) for my ocean-view stateroom, and leave a credit card imprint as some small compensation. My luggage is whisked away to the lift and delivered to the allotted room, midships on Deck 10.

There are no bunks here - I am not even expected to put up with someone else's snoring. The standard stateroom has a double bed, and an en suite bathroom in gleaming white and stainless steel.

The bedroom opens out on to a small balcony recessed into the side of the ship, a very long way above the water. The balcony and the extraordinary number of mirrors increase the room's sense of size. A locked connecting door implies that several staterooms can be used together to form a suite for families.

As I rapidly unpack I discover that my camera is no longer travelling with me - it must have been removed from my luggage during one of the long, but reassuringly thorough, airport security checks. Oh well.

I set out to explore the ship, which takes some time, as there are nine decks devoted to amusement and entertainment.

Deck six, at water level, contains the Stardust Theatre, which seats more than 1000 people and resembles a European opera house.

I bypass Dazzles nightclub, reasoning that, by definition, it is too early in the day for such an environment, but feel compelled to visit Gatsby's Champagne Bar for a reviving glass.

Comfortable armchairs in an art deco ambience make it tempting to stay and chat with other passengers, a mix of young and old, singles and couples. But I resist, taking a quick peep into Le Bistro, the French restaurant, and continue on past the wine cellar, the SoHo Room and Aqua restaurant.

And so it goes on - deck after deck of restaurants, including Ginza, a Japanese restaurant that includes a sushi bar and teppanyaki, another specialising in Pacific Rim cuisine, and a tapas bar.

The choice of places to meet friends or just relax is equally daunting. The Havana Club offers hand-rolled cigars, the Red Lion Pub is traditional English and is equipped with a large TV screen for those unmissable sporting events, the Biergarten overlooks the pool and serves Bavarian snacks.

When all of this becomes too much, there is always the library, a card room, a reading room and the chapel.

Choosing an eating place for each meal becomes an exercise in itself. This is where freestyle cruising comes into its own - the choice is entirely mine, dictated only by how hungry I am and the style of food that appeals.

Most of the restaurants open at 5.30 pm, and take last orders at 10 pm; generally you don't need to book. I could have an intimate dinner for two or for 20 at any of the restaurants and never eat in the same place twice. The specialty restaurants charge a premium for meals, which is not included in the cost of the cruise.

I don't even have to go to a restaurant if I don't feel like it, because there are several casual cafes where I can eat without changing out of togs or shorts. And there is always cabin service.

The restaurant service is generally attentive and prompt. But one lunch confounded the first waiter, as our group grew from two to five and eventually to eight, necessitating three changes of table.

The waiter simply couldn't cope and withdrew in fury, requiring a more experienced person to take over and try to restrain our semi-hysterical group. The food, when it arrived, was excellent, although the blackened fish on beetroot puree was perhaps not a wise choice.

"Freestyle" is a word that also applies to the dress code. Resort casual is the term used, but that seems to cover a multitude of styles, from more formal dress - suits for the men and long skirts for the women - to slacks and shirts and sundresses. The only restriction is no shorts, jeans or T-shirts in the restaurants after 5.30 pm.

Should I wish to really frock up, I can do the traditional shipboard thing at least once during the cruise. More than once, actually. Some traditional shipboard pursuits have survived the style change, along with shuffleboard, cards and swimming.

There are endless ways to keep fit and keep at bay the weight gain inflicted by so much food. I could follow up sessions at the 12m lap pool, outdoor jogging and walking track and 24-hour fitness centre with a visit to the spa and beauty salon for a massage.

It's all very much in the style of one of the better hotels, particularly as there is no sense of the ship moving and no engine noise.

Evening entertainment includes a stand-up comic who worked for every laugh he got the evening we were there, and a show in the Stardust Theatre. The crowd of predominantly South Americans in the karaoke bar were bemused by the efforts of Australian and New Zealand journalists and the applause was polite, at best.

Should you wish to, you could improve your mind at life-enriching personal finance seminars, computer or cooking classes and lessons in Tahitian line dancing.

And if you've taken your children on holiday, you can all still have a break from one another. The Norwegian Star has a huge children's centre with pool, movie theatre, video arcade, playroom and nursery.

There is even a special area in the buffet restaurant with kid-size tables and chairs, where you can feed the little dears and then pack them off below decks, supervised of course, while you and your beloved enjoy an intimate dinner in Le Bistro - or a spa in one of the rooms designed for couples.

Because this is an American-based cruise line, tipping could be a concern. Your account will include a service charge of $US10 ($23.80) an adult guest a day, which is shared out between the dining room staff and the stateroom steward.

This overall charge is not negotiable, but with a bit of effort you can attain some discretionary power over its distribution.

A few niggles remain. More signposting would be helpful, and it was not always easy to find the lifts. Luggage-handling procedures need to be tightened up, as some people experienced long delays before their luggage arrived in their stateroom. Some people may find the freedom to smoke almost everywhere except lifts and eating places uncomfortable.

However, Norwegian Cruise Lines has largely succeeded in providing freedom and flexibility. The ship is huge and comfortable, and I had no feeling of being trapped afloat. You can do as much or as little to do as you want, no matter what your age or ability.

Would I do it again? You bet.

Case notes

AVAILABILITY: Norwegian Cruise Line's ship Norwegian Wind is conducting 14-day cruises in Australian and New Zealand waters this month. Crown Odyssey, a ship from subsidiary company Orient Line, will also be in the vicinity.

Norwegian Star is based in Hawaii and visits Oahu, Maui and Kauai, and Fanning Island in the Republic of Kiribati.

PRICE: This varies according to the length of your cruise and the standard of your accommodation, but on a seven-day Hawaiian cruise, an ocean-view stateroom with balcony, twin share, will cost between $US2069 and $US2159 ($4927-$5141) a person, plus up to $US30 tax and port taxes.

An inside stateroom ranges from $US1629 and $US1769 a person plus taxes. Hefty discounts are available for early booking.

WHAT YOU GET: The price includes accommodation, meals and entertainment. All personal expenses and shore excursions are extra and specialty restaurants charge a premium above the inclusive price.

The ship has a doctor and a nurse, but take any special medication that you might need.

Don't bother to pack your hairdrier as the cabin has one.

Gambling is not offered on cruises around Hawaii.

CONTACT: Your travel agent - NCL has no permanent representation in New Zealand.

* Phoebe Falconer travelled courtesy of Norwegian Cruise Lines and Qantas.