The country is a Unesco World Heritage site, thanks to its unique Rock Islands and coral reefs. Photo / Four Seasons
The country is a Unesco World Heritage site, thanks to its unique Rock Islands and coral reefs. Photo / Four Seasons
Climb aboard the Four Seasons Explorer in Palau, Micronesia, a ‘floating resort’ considered one of the most luxurious in the world, writes Carlos Marcondes
The first mission of all those who arrive in the city of Koror in Palau is to sign a contract that is then stamped on your passport. It signifies a genuine commitment to respect and act in an ecologically and culturally responsible manner, for the good of future generations of Palauans.
Palau sounds fascinating, but few risk saying they know where it is. It is a speck, a micro country, the fourth smallest in the world in terms of population, with just 18,000 Palauans.
It consists of almost 350 islands, which appear to float in the western Pacific somewhere between the southeastern Philippines and the north of West Papua. Simply being in the middle of nowhere is yet another reason that makes it surreal.
When I check in for my “liveaboard” ship experience, I am welcomed by almost 40 members of the Four Seasons team on the deck of the Explorer, a sumptuous mini-cruise (or mega yacht), which has been sailing in the southern region of the Palauan archipelago since October last year. The Explorer is the first luxury accommodation in the country, which also has a branded resort scheduled for 2026.
Unmatched beauty both above and below the water. Photo / Josh Burkinshaw
The Four Seasons proposal is for guests to feel like they are on their own yacht, relaxed amid an almost untouched setting. Among the accommodations, there are 10 comfortable 20 sq m suites, and a premium 46 sq m suite, with panoramic frontal views of the waters of Palau.
On average there are only 15 guests, which cements the feeling of exclusivity. The attentiveness and smiles on the crew’s faces are routine hallmarks of the services, in addition to impeccable cuisine and daily a la carte menus.
Life below
In 2015, the archipelago banned commercial fishing in 80% of its waters - an area equivalent to 80% of the size of France. However, this level of protection may be changing. A controversial project is circulating to reduce it, which in the view of ecologists, would be a setback.
Tours on the Explorer are divided into two boats, one takes certified divers and the other transports guests to beautiful sites.
They include the world-famous Jellyfish Lake, the mud bath at the Milky Way oasis, or the imposing Ngardmau waterfall (the largest in the country). Guests can also visit a Palauan village to learn about the culture of this matriarchal society of empowered women, and the traditional Yes House where clan leaders meet.
Palau banned commercial fishing in 80% of its waters, creating a massive marine sanctuary. Photo / Four Seasons
Already on the dive boat, my Four Seasons guide, Angela Gitaprakasa (who holds the title of course director, one of the highest PADI certification levels) explains why Palau is so phenomenal. “We have a constant explosion of life here. In one week, you have one of the most complete experiences in the world, with visibility exceeding 50m on the outer reef.”
There are more than 400 species of hard corals, 150 soft corals, and fauna consisting of almost 1500 types of animals found in extreme abundance at more than 50 dive sites. There are 50 shipwrecks, most of them tragic testimonies of World War II. One of them, the Iro Maru, was a Japanese supply ship sunk by an American submarine and is today considered a relic.
Poignantly, Japan and the United States fought the bloodiest war in the Pacific in Palau. The Battle of Peleliu Island, where thousands lost their lives is remembered while partaking in one of the many Four Seasons tours which visit local historic sites.
Palau’s underwater wonders include more than 400 species of hard corals and nearly 1500 marine species. Photo / Four Seasons
Back in the water, the likes of Siaes Corner, Big Drop Off, Turtle Cove, Blue Holes and Chandelier Cave, are among the most spectacular dive sites.
All are south of Koror (Palau’s economic capital) and on the outskirts of the lush region called Rock Islands Southern Lagoon, where dozens of limestone islands, covered in tropical forest, are snaked by coral reefs and the largest concentration of sea lagoons on Earth. This endemic biome is a Unesco Heritage site.
Global stars
Palau is the dream destination for any experienced diver. Perhaps the most coveted is the Blue Corner, where the invitation is to carefully hook up, close to the corals, and enjoy the spectacle of the currents that bring life in abundance to the reef.
Marvel at the parade of dozens of grey sharks (I counted about 50), giant Napoleon fish, schools of barracuda, ‘swarms of swimming clouds’ consisting of thousands of jackfish, snapper, turtles, and stingrays. It was a magical performance and a privilege to witness.
The German Channel is another pearl of Palau. It is the site of the so-called manta ray ‘cleaning stations’, where the tiny wrasses rid the giants of their parasites. In the canal, there are huge schools of fish and a shark festival. In 2009, Palau was the first in the world to create a specific sanctuary for these fish.
On board the Four Seasons Explorer, explore Palau’s famed dive spots, exclusive excursions, and marine conservation efforts. Photo / Palau Visitors Authority
The Ullong Channel is recognised as one of the most sublime drift dives of the seven seas. The site bewitched me.
We entered a garden that looked like the world of Avatar, with countless giant clams and hundreds of groupers of multiple colours, curious but never straying too far from the safety of their overhanging shelters.
Suddenly, a hawksbill turtle swims towards my diving companion; two faces poised with wonder, in an unimaginable moment she exchanges a quick look of tenderness and sends her new friend a very special kiss that closes the distance between them.
This interaction is symbolic: by treating nature with maximum respect, we become part of the harmony.
The Ullong Channel is considered one of the best drift dives in the world. Photo / Four Seasons
Occupations, language and currency
The small archipelago was occupied by the Spanish, Germans, Japanese and after World War II, by the Americans. Although independent since 1994, the relationship with the US is almost equivalent to that of a territory. Therefore, the dollar and English are the official currency and language of the country, while still keeping the Palauan language active. Alli means Hello.
Before entering Palau, visitors sign an eco-pledge to protect the country’s environment. Photo / Four Seasons
Jellyfish Lake
It is one of the few places on Earth where you can find a salty lagoon that is home to two non-stinging species of jellyfish: Moon and Golden Jellyfish. Five years ago, more than five million jellyfish occupied this Garden of Eden but due to slightly raised water temperatures, harming the reproduction of these animals, the population was reduced to a few hundred thousand. Even so, the place is magnificent and the experience of swimming with some of these beauties is not only safe, it’s worth it.
On board the Explorer, don’t miss Marine biologist Oscar Aguilar giving a complete presentation about this site and the underwater life of Palau. His lectures are every day after lunch, and a wonderful way to understand and be intrigued by the life in Palau.
Guests at the Four Seasons Explorer can experience Jellyfish Lake, home to non-stinging jellyfish. Photo / Four Seasons
The luxurious vessel accepts reservations for arrivals on any day of the week. It is also possible to take a diving course on the Four Seasons liveaboard. The recommendation is to advance through the theoretical process before the trip, leaving only the practical tests to be done in Palau.
