A touch of Black Forest in the Coromandel

By SANDRA PATERSON

A stay at the Bushland Park Lodge makes you reflect on the pace of life - and on what is really important.

Not knowing what you're going to be eating can be even better than a good menu. Booking into Bushland Park Lodge by phone, I'm quizzed by owner and chef Reinhard Nickel about my likes and dislikes - and promised a tailor-made meal.

A couple of days later, driving through the beautiful Wentworth Valley near Whangamata, girlfriend Christine and I are already enjoying the anticipation of a surprise gourmet dinner.

Smoke curls from the chimney of the lodge, set in 2ha of gardens, surrounded by bush. Petra Nickel welcomes us and it's immediately obvious what "gemutlichkeit" means - a German word I'd seen on their website. It translates roughly as "more than cosy", perfectly illustrated by the lodge's warm timber furnishings and open fires.

An hour later, we're sitting in the outdoor spa pool, overlooking a waterlily pond. A wood pigeon swoops noisily overhead, as jets of water massage our feet.

All too soon, as the fantails are gathering for an evening chatter, it's time to go back inside for half an hour with a local massage therapist. Last time I had a professional massage was BC (before children). I think I could get used to it again.

Over a pre-dinner champagne, Reinhard and Petra explain how they managed to open a restaurant in a no-restaurant zone. They explained to bemused local councillors that what they had in mind was a "strausse" - a 9th-century term for when vineyard owners were allowed to sell food and drink for four months of the year. The word "strausse" came from the broom stuck on to the front gate to signal food was available.

Petra presented each councillor with a miniature broom - and Nickel Strausse was allowed to open.

There are just five tables, amid walls strewn with German memorabilia.

After a tasty entree and main, Reinhard suggests a three-minute jaunt to a glow-worm grotto. Walking through the bush under the stars turns out to be a brilliant way to make room for dessert. Not too many glow-worms in winter, but several thousand in summer.

Back by the fire, we enjoy some genuine Black Forest gateaux - and a homemade pear-brandy - before heading to the presidential suite where our beds have been turned down, a chocolate on each pillow. A gas fire and large copper lamp throw warm light onto old bricks and autumn-toned furnishings.

Only one room out of four has a televison and while guests are welcome to watch one in the lounge, most don't. The sign on the front porch banning mobile phones also seems appropriate.

It's the kind of place which makes you reflect on the pace of life - and on what is really important.

Most people, says Reinhard, have forgotten how to enjoy the simple things. Next morning, on a 20-minute bush walk, we peer into old gold tunnels, looking for wetas, and walk on a fallen log to cross the river. He grabs a handful of moss and thrusts it under our noses.

"Smell this! It's the scent of life!"

Where to find it:

Bushland Park Lodge & Nickel Strausse restaurant
Reinhard and Petra Nickel, 444 Wentworth Valley Rd, PO Box 190, Whangamata
Ph: 07 865 7468
email: bushparklodge@xtra.co.nz

What it costs:

The "special occasion" package for two is $525 and includes one night in the presidential suite, massage, champagne, three-course dinner, bottle of wine and full breakfast.

Room rates range from $185 a night to $320, including breakfast. Children not usually allowed. Extras Spa $10; sauna $15; massage $40/half hour. (No guest laundry).

Getting there

At the Whangamata golf course, turn off SH25 on to Wentworth Valley Rd. The lodge is 4.4km up the road on gravel, roughly two hours from Auckland or Hamilton.

Access: Not designed for wheelchair access.

Smoking: No smoking inside.

What's good: The bush setting, "gemutlichkeit" decor, Reinhard's steak sauce, the cultural experience.

What's not so good: Light-sleepers in the presidential suite may be woken by footsteps on the upper floor. And the restaurant begs German music, not American.

Things to do: The Wentworth Valley Falls are about an hour's tramp from the lodge; an 18-hole golf course is five minutes away. Other activities include the Whangamata surf beach, fishing, arts and crafts and exploring old gold trails.

Food: Diners at Nickel Strausse can have a "mystery dinner" or select from a small menu. Our surprise meal started with snapper and salmon terrine, with a delicious caper and yoghurt sauce. Another excellent sauce, a cassis brandy and green pepper jus, accompanied the beef eye-fillet main, served with roesti-style potatoes and feta-stuffed tomatoes. The jus takes about a day to make. Dessert was a genuine Black Forest gateaux, made in a heart-shape and brought to the table with a sparkler on the top. Three-course dinner $60 a person; mystery four-course dinner $65, five courses $85. No BYO. Bookings essential, five tables only.

* Sandra Paterson was a guest of Bushland Park Lodge & Nickel Strausse.