An afternoon at Natadola Beach riding horses. Photo / Kate Holland
An afternoon at Natadola Beach riding horses. Photo / Kate Holland
For those who prefer to explore rather than park themselves poolside, Viti Levu – the international gateway to the Fijian islands – has plenty to offer, writes Kate Holland
With the vast number of quality Kids Clubs available at Fijian resorts, it’s no wonder families head there in droves. Rest and relaxation for parents meets on-site adventure and activity for children. But choosing to stay put means no gorgeous gardens with celebrity connections, no open-aired bus rides with booming reggae soundtracks, no panoramic views from the highlands and no medicinal mud pools that could induce the best sleep of your life.
Our stay on the west-side of Viti Levu, at the faultlessly friendly First Landing Resort, provided the perfect base for all this and more.
Sometimes even explorers like to feel a little organised before hitting foreign soil. There are plenty of tours you can arrange from home via your travel agent, Viator (which has an app that provides excellent updates and reminders) or direct with the provider. And while many of the same tours are available through the resorts when you arrive, be warned that some bookings might cost extra.
These three tours were all booked in advance and did not disappoint.
A mix of traditional culture, picture-perfect plants and healing hot springs
In just half a day you can deepen your understanding of traditional Fijian culture, meander through The Garden of the Sleeping Giant and treat yourself with wads of mud courtesy of Excite Tours.
The Garden of the Sleeping Giants. Photo / Kate Holland
En route,The next we discovered that Fiji has a history of cannibalism, the story behind the omnipresent Punja brand and how to spot a locally owned restaurant (the name signs are generally shared and sponsored by a certain Cola giant).
Our tour began with a trip to the historical village of Veseisei where the native Fijians first landed, and locals now live a simple, happy, communal life. Following a welcome from the female elders, we were introduced to their wares (jewellery and trinkets neither dirt cheap nor pricey) and supported them accordingly before being taken on a tour past the chief’s thatch-roofed home and through the church which is central to the contemporary village existence.
The historical village of Veseisei. Photo / Kate Holland
The next stop was The Garden of the Sleeping Giants, nestled in the (mostly) cool shadows of two giant mountains and boasting a collection of over 30 to 40 varieties of magnificent Asian orchids and Cattleya hybrids which were once the private collection of late actor Raymond Burr (aka Perry Mason). Walking trails weave across the expanse and can be followed up the hill for those willing to risk a heavy sweat for the reward of stunning views. The complimentary iced fruit drink before leaving tastes, appropriately, like something Heaven sent.
The final stop was the Sabeto Mud Pools, flanked by nature and home to a three-part process of lathering yourself in mud, drying it in the sun until the body itches and skin seems to crack, and washing it all off in the warm thermal springs from which it sprung.
Rinsing off at the Sabeto Mud Pools. Photo / Kate Holland
For travellers, it’s a chance to cleanse and gain supple skin for days. For locals, the site has long acted as their “hospital”, a place for healing due to perceived, and formally tested, therapeutic components in the mud. Coupled with an on-site massage the process can certainly lead to a deep state of relaxation and sensational evening slumber. Bonus: the souvenirs here are cheap!
Arranged directly through the operators, a day out with Salty Dog Tours is the perfect way to fit in fish feeding, snorkelling, fishing and swimming in the beautiful clear waters of the Mamanuca Islands without having to book an overnight stay. In true Fijian style, the welcome songs from the staff at Castaway Island don’t cease even for those briefly stopping by.
Fishing at the Mamanuca Islands. Photo / Kate Holland
Meanwhile, nothing is too much trouble for the Salty Dog crew who provide ample water and snacks, numerous fishing tips, and point out everything from turtles and sea horses to curious looking party boats with Mad Max vibes.
The bumpy boat ride back is an experience in itself – ideal for those who love getting air over waves and don’t mind arriving back to shore wet.
Leaving from the Naisoso Marina (Nadi) it’s possible to arrange a pick-up or make your own way there. Hailing a taxi home is a cheap option but may require some walking to spot one or be spotted.
The centre of Viti Levu is mountainous and home to the Highlanders, a tough breed of people still reliant on animals and hands-on techniques over farm machinery due to the incline. While few cars can make their way up, quad bikes can, and they move at a perfect pace for absorbing the scenery with a small dose of daring.
Taking a quad bike tour. Photo / Kate Holland
Go Dirty Tours offers a half-day adventure that sees you ascend a mountain via snake-like roads, meandering past villages to reach a panoramic view and greet happy horses on a hillside that has a rather impressive echo. Riding through muddy puddles is optional but highly encouraged. Take note, rain alone will not lead to a tour cancellation. The muddier the merrier.
Returning to the flats the tour crawls through central Nadi traffic, offering a front-row seat to a city in action. The final leg back to base is across Womolo Beach (nice, but not sandy white like First Landing!) and the tour ends with a triple stack chicken sandwich washed down with welcomed extra water.
Spontaneous adventure can lead to the most incredible experiences, like an afternoon at Natadola Beach riding horses, swimming with hundreds of locals and learning their language. And to mishaps too, like hour-long bus rides in the wrong direction. It’s how you process them that counts. After all, the communication breakdown that extends a bus ride also delivers an extra hour of sightseeing, up-beat music, mingling and wind-swept hair. Window-free buses are wonderful.
Swimming at Natadola. Photo / Kate Holland
Some other things to keep in mind include the fact that potholes ensure you go nowhere fast, so leave time. As the Fijians love to say, “You drive on the left side of the road, and we drive on what’s left of the road”.
You need to carry cash. This is crucial; for local wares, buses, taxis and often even the drivers that you’ve pre-arranged to take you on tours. Taxis are cheap, especially those you flag yourself, but every one of our tour drivers added something to the experience. Car hire is economical but it’s advisable to avoid driving at night due to rogue horses, dogs, cows and, of course, those pesky potholes.
Tap water is safe but good coffee is hard to come by. It’s a milk thing. You’ll understand when you try.
Your cheeks will hurt from smiling back at the sheer number of people who greet you with warmth, and not just because they must. “Where happiness comes naturally” is not just a clever tourism slogan, it’s a truism.
Bula is more than a word expressing hello and welcome. It’s a beautiful feeling you will never forget.
CHECKLIST
Fiji
Getting there
Fiji Airways and Air New Zealand regularly fly direct from Auckland to Nadi, Fiji.
