Nimes is trending post Rugby World Cup 2023. Photo / 123rf
Nimes is trending post Rugby World Cup 2023. Photo / 123rf
With the Rugby World Cup now over, the fans may have left but France remains a top destination for visitors. Take it from a francophile, Nimes is the Roman city with a lot to offer, writes Victoria Trott.
I‘m sitting on a cafe terrace sipping an espresso, a familiar experience in many places in Europe. In front of me a rectangular stone building, bordered by Corinthian columns supporting the roof, dominates the square. I could be in Italy or Greece, but I’m actually in the southern French city of Nimes.
About 40km from the Mediterranean coast, and halfway between Avignon and Montpellier, Nimes became a Roman colony thanks to its location on the Via Domitia, the trade route between Italy and Spain.
The result is that this university city, with a population of 150,000, has a wealth of ancient buildings. The structure in front of me is the Maison Carree (Square House), a temple that was completed in 2CE and is considered to be one of the best-preserved monuments from the Roman Empire. Inside, there is now an informative display on its history.
The Maison Carree (Square House) is considered one of the best-preserved monuments from the Roman Empire. Photo / 123rf
Across the way, and in stark contrast to the temple, is the Carre d’Art – home of the city’s contemporary art collection and public library. The glass, steel and concrete structure, which celebrates its 30th anniversary in 2023, was designed by British architect Norman Foster “as a response to the city which has a monumental grandeur and the richness of small details”.
Heading south along the west side of the ecusson, the name given to the historic centre thanks to its shield-like shape, I pass Le Napo, an early 19th-century cafe whose ornately decorated ceiling is a listed monument, before arriving at the heart of the city’s cultural life.
Measuring 133m long, 101m wide and 21m high, the Arenes de Nimes was built around 100CE and is one of the largest and best-preserved arenas from Roman times. It could originally seat 24,000 spectators, who came to watch gladiator fights. These days, as well as being open for visits, the arena hosts Roman re-enactments, known as the Journees Romaines, in May; a series of pop concerts by French and international artists in July; and bullfights during the Spanish-style Ferias in May or June and September.
The Arenes de Nimes was built around 100CE and is one of the largest and best-preserved arenas from Roman times. Photo / 123rf
Nimes lies to the north of the Camargue, Western Europe’s largest river delta, famous for its salt marshes, white horses, flamingos and black bulls. These animals, smaller than Spanish bulls, take part in courses camarguaises (non-mortal games where young men try and snatch a rosette off the bull’s head), which also occasionally take place in the Roman arena.
The bulls’ prized meat is usually available as steaks or in gardiane de taureau (bull meat slow-cooked in red wine) served with Camargue rice, and a good place to try this dish is Le Nicolas.
I’m staying at Appart’City Nimes Arenes, a four-star apart-hotel in a grand 19th-century mansion five minutes’ walk north of Nimes Centre train station. My room’s kitchenette means I can take full advantage of the foodie delights on offer.
I make a beeline for Les Halles de Nimes, a covered market where I discover some of the best local produce including Pelardon (soft goat’s cheese), olives and olive oil, petit pate nimois (a small meat pie) and Costieres de Nimes wine. There are also a few restaurants, notably the Michelin-listed La Pie Qui Couette tapas bar.
A short walk southeast of the market brings me to the Musee du Vieux Nimes (Place aux Herbes), the local history museum housed in the 18th-century bishops’ palace. The city developed thanks to its textiles, one of which was serge de Nimes (a thick twill fabric) – when exported to the United States, it eventually became known as denim. Early examples of jeans are on display in the museum.
The rugby's gone but the Romans remain in Nimes, France. Photo / 123rf
Denim is once again being produced in the city, using traditional techniques, by Ateliers de Nimes – a pair of jeans costs €180 ($320).
Leaving behind the narrow streets and little squares of the historic centre, I stroll west to the Jardins de la Fontaine (Fountain Gardens). This beautiful green space, with water features, statues and manicured lawns, was created in 1745 on the orders of the Louis XV. It’s the kind of garden you’d find in Paris or Versailles.
Even here there is no escape from Ancient Rome. On the west side are the remains of the Temple of Diana (although not actually thought to be a temple) and atop the wooded hill to the north is the Tour Magne, a 32m-high watchtower offering panoramic views across the city.
Back in the historic centre, I recover with an ice cream. Even that is Roman. La Dolcezza (19 Place du Marche) has a flavour called La Romaine, made with almond, fig and orange zest – apparently traditional Roman ingredients. Hail Caesar!
Nimes is a university city with a population of 150,000 and boasts a wealth of ancient buildings. Photo / Dimitry B; Unsplash
NEED-TO-KNOW
Double rooms at Appart-City Nimes-Arenes start at €89 ($157) per night. Book at appartcity.com.
For further information visit nimes-tourisme.com and visit-occitanie.com. The Nimes City Pass starts at €29 ($51) for two days and gives access to 12 sights including those mentioned here.
