A big day out in Christchurch

"You do realise it's cold and there's nothing to do?"

The warning spilled from the mouth of a colleague in Auckland on the eve of my big day out in Christchurch.

How do stereotypes like that persist? It's akin to believing Wellington never has a sunny day or Aucklanders only want to talk about the value of their homes. Actually, that's largely true of Aucklanders.

Yet I was troubled. Would my big day out consist of hours wandering around the Square, discarded copies of The Press blowing against my legs as I played a lonely game of spot the Polynesian among the fair burghers of the Garden City?

Only one way to find out. Head south on the big bird.

Morning in Christchurch dawns cold and wet. I close the curtains and consider going back to bed for the day, but the challenge is to explore Christchurch whatever the weather.

So, a deep breath and out for a brisk pre-breakfast wheeze around Hagley Park. I take heart from the fact the ducks' feet are paddling under the Avon. It's not truly freezing; I just need to harden up. Four tough old buzzards hacking away at balls on Hagley Golf Course are further evidence that the definition of cold is a sliding scale depending on where you're from. They look at my woolly beanie the way my father looks at quiche.

Hagley Park's an admirable distraction. A defining landmark for Christchurch, it occupies ground set aside for this very purpose by the first European settlers in the 1850s. The first trees were planted in 1863 and, today, it's a splendid, mature, green space, the envy of many a larger city, which sprawls for 161ha.

Leaving 160ha for a later date, I opt for a true explorer's breakfast - two strong espressos in the warmth of the George Hotel overlooking the park. My plan for the day is a simple one. I'll go only where my feet or one of Christchurch's famous trams will take me.

And so to Cathedral Square, where I see no discarded newspapers, several Polynesians (there goes that myth), and the low-rise majesty of the surrounding 19th Century architecture. The Victorian Gothic ChristChurch Cathedral dominates, of course.

The religious backbone which has helped give Christchurch a sense of ordered progression from the arrival of the First Four Ships from England in 1850-51, through to a thriving city of 350,000, is embodied by the cathedral. The foundation stone was laid in 1864, but the cathedral was not fully complete until 1904. It is truly the heart of the city. In Auckland, it would have been knocked down for apartments.

Good intentions to explore inside are swept aside by the clanging bell of a tram (it just looked like more fun). Pete the conductor and Owen the driver have the same uniform, the same salt-and-pepper beards and the same dry wit. Only Pete's got two gold earrings, presumably so they can tell each other apart.

He points to a sign in the beautifully restored interior - "Spitting inside the car is strictly prohibited" - before launching into a funny, fact-laden spiel as we trundle along Worcester Blvd, past the magnificent glass and metal exterior of the Art Gallery, to Cranmer Sq, where the first game of rugby was played in Christchurch, past Victoria Sq, and the startling mirror-image architecture of New Regent St, through the tram station and back to Cathedral Square.

Trams

Missing from the city between 1954 and 1995, when they were revived as a tourist initiative, the trams are not to be missed. Among their benefits: They make you take it easy; you get an eyeful and an explanation of the impressive architecture; you can get on and off at any of 11 stops on the 2.5km loop; one ticket lasts for two days; they keep you dry on days like these.

The end of the line for me was stop No 4, outside the Arts Centre, to trawl through the weekend market. If you want handknits, carved greenstone or wetas entombed in glass as paperweights, this is the place. My vote for best stall goes to Sweet, local manufacturer and purveyor of delicious rock candy. Their aniseed rocks!

The grand Gothic Revival buildings which once housed the University of Canterbury, are now occupied by the Arts Centre.

Rutherford's Den, a cramped basement in which Sir Earnest Rutherford worked towards splitting the atom on often handmade research equipment, is perhaps the most obvious reminder that, here at least, before there was art there was science. And when you're over physics, there are more than 40 galleries, shops, theatres, cinemas, cafes, restaurants and an intriguing outdoor international food alley. Whether you're a serious art acquirer or just trying to occupy kids for the day, it's hard to go wrong. Two hours disappeared quick smart.

With a roaring fire, a serious wine list and a menu which includes the simple cold-weather delight of home-made pumpkin soup and bread, Annie's restaurant at the Arts Centre is a lunchtime haven.

Over lunch, I developed a gnawing concern that far from there being nothing to do in Christchurch, I was going to run out of time to do the half of it. So it was directly across the road and down a block to the newish Christchurch Art Gallery, where the open design, free entry and spectacular collection make for a very democratic art experience. Of note is the gallery's New Zealand works including a contemporary collection, 20th century works from the likes of McCahon, Hotere, Tosswill Woolaston and Doris Lusk, and a Canterbury section in which hangs Summer Morn, beautifully painted by Evelyn Page in 1929 and banned from public display until 1978, when the women who modeled nude for Page beside the Karamea River died.

High Street shopping around the central precinct is a fairly lacklustre experience, but check out the trendy collection of fashion boutiques, cafes, music stores and secondhand shops around the intersection of Tuam and High St and through to Lichfield. The Boho atmosphere extends into the adjoining lanes and alleyways.

It's a 10-minute walk back through the Square to Canterbury Museum, where it's pleasing to discover a sign indicating that a refit will eventually provide new, better exhibit space in the adjoining Robert McDougall Gallery.

The museum has some interesting exhibits, but they're crying out for better display, particularly the collection of artefacts from the 600-year-old Moa hunter village found at Wairau Bar, Marlborough.

With the sun appearing for the last hour of the afternoon, there's just enough time to be at one with nature and take a stroll through the Botanic Gardens, beside the museum. They do good gardens in Christchurch, and this is the grandmammy, established in 1863 and covering 30ha.

A big day out has to be followed by a big night, and mine included dinner at Mu steak house, a well-reviewed newcomer and you can taste why, and a long night of music at the annual jazz festival featuring a brilliant retro concert by Georgie Fame. (Thanks Christchurch, I didn't know he was still alive).

I returned to Auckland to rest.

Need to know...

Getting there: Air New Zealand and Qantas fly regularly to Christchurch.

Visitor information: The i-Site is in Cathedral Square, and open every day except Christmas Day from 8.30am. www.christchurchnz.net

ChristChurch Cathedral: Open 9am-5pm during winter. Earlier in summer. Free.

Trams: Adult $12.50, child (5-15) $2.50, family (two adults, three children) $30, under-5s free. Ticket is valid for two consecutive days. Tram and gondola combo tickets available. A dining tram operates. www.tram.co.nz

Weekend market: Saturday and Sunday, 10am-4pm, at the Arts Centre.

Arts Centre/Rutherford's Den: Arts Centre information open daily 9.30am-5pm. Free guided tours available 10am-3.30pm. Rutherford's Den open daily 10am-5pm.

Annie's Restaurant: The Arts Centre. Ph (09) 365 0566.

Christchurch Art Gallery: Open daily except Christmas 10am-5pm (10am-9pm Wednesday). Admission free. www.christchurchartgallery.org.nz


Canterbury Museum: Open daily except Christmas from 9am. Free,but a donation is appreciated. www.canterburymuseum.com

Christchurch Botanic Garden: Open daily. Admission is free.

Mu steak house: 92 Lichfield St. Ph (03) 377 0681. www.musteakhouse.co.nz

Accommodation: The George is the city's only 5-star Qualmark hotel. It overlooks Hagley Park and offers a superb menu at Pescatore restaurant. www.thegeorge.com