A beachside retreat outside the square

By KAREN GOA


Bounding over the hill towards Rapaki Bay, I'm wondering, where's the beach house? One of only a smattering of houses in the secluded bay, Cavalli Beach-House Retreat is so well-camouflaged that I don't even see it until we're almost at its beachfront foot.

That suits owners Bill and Paula Schwass. On their extensive travels overseas, they "saw what the future looked like" for tourism architecture - and it wasn't square.

Their sail-shaped structure curves down the hillside in an architectural feat so impressive you'll want to have something soft handy to slip under your jaw when it hits the ground.

Says Paula: "Architecture is the one chance to make a contribution to the environment."

In keeping with this credo the Schwasses also use eco-sensitive practices at the retreat - biodegradable, top-quality toiletries, solar water heating and rubbish recycling and composting - without stinting a jot on life's finer things.

"Idleness itself is a luxury," smiles Paula, welcoming us into the Pacifica-inspired Ocean Suite. Tongan tapa cloth wall hangings and tablecloths in the capacious lounge/dining area are a fishy link with the sea and sand-themed decor.

Needing no encouragement for idleness, we sit outside on broad balconies shaped like boat decks, sipping complimentary champagne and taking in spangly blue views across the bay to the protected Mahinepua Peninsula Reserve, where no lines of houses will ever mar the vista.

Beyond, the Cavalli Islands make so picture-perfect a scene that my companion has a Dali-esque dab at art using the easel and pastels at hand in the lounge.

On our pre-dinner stroll we're the only ones on the beach - the only humans, that is. An alert oystercatcher decoys us away from her sole egg, plunked on its rocky nest for any big foot to tread on. We give the egg lots of space and wander away to splash in rock pools, briefly eyeing the kayaks on offer for guests wanting a paddle across the bay to nearby sea caves.

Later, it's worth a short uphill puff through the flax, not only to see the whole of the bay from on high but to soak in the hillside jacuzzi.

Dinner is as beautifully presented as you'd expect from Paula, the ex-chef of Kerikeri's award-winning Rocket Cafe.

While she puts the finishing touches to fillet steak and balsamic mushrooms with crunchy green beans, the ever-gregarious Bill shares a bottle of local wine with us and two American guests.

"We've had a lot of laughs," chortles New Yorker Allan, who with wife Bobbie, has stayed at the retreat more than once.

The American magazine Outdoor Traveler named Cavalli Beach-House Retreat as the only New Zealand accommodation in its list of "Perfect 10" adventure lodges of the world. It takes no imagination at all to see why.

Where to find it

Cavalli Beach-House Retreat, Rapaki Bay, Northland. Contact host or see website for directions. It's a four-hour drive north from Auckland, or a 50-minute flight from Auckland to Kerikeri plus a 45-minute drive to the retreat (complimentary transfers). Helipad onsite.

Ph 09 405 1049; fax 09 405 1043; email

What it costs

For two : Standard room $380 a night low season, $525 high season. Ocean Suite $480 a night low season, $625 high season. House bookings $1240 a night low season, $1675 a night high season.

Wheelchair Access

No.

Children

Welcome with house bookings.

Food

Tariff includes gourmet breakfast and all nonalcoholic beverages. Dinner ($80pp) and lunch or picnic lunch ($30pp) by arrangement. Or try Oceans Restaurant, Matauri Bay, (ph 09 405 0417), Janit's Texas Diner, Kaeo (ph 09 405 0569), Kauri Cliffs Lodge, bookings essential (ph 09 407 0010).

What to do

Use the retreat's kayaks, dinghy and snorkelling equipment in the bay. The hosts can book game fishing or sailing charters, onsite massage, helitours, scuba dive on the Rainbow Warrior wreck, golf at internationally renowned Kauri Cliffs Golf Course.

* Karen Goa was a guest of the Cavalli Beach-House Resort.


Find more information at Cavalli Beach-House Retreat