Contrary to the belief that traveling to Antarctica is exorbitantly priced, budget-friendly options have emerged with the growth of tourism. Photo / Supplied
On an Antarctica cruise, you’ll likely sail past huge tabular icebergs that are as large as cities. Correct. But what about the myths that surround this vast continent? Liz Carlson separates fact from fiction.
Antarctica - the Great White South. The last ultimate untouched part of Papatūānuku. The land of penguins, albatross, David Attenborough, and absolutely no polar bears. Antarctica has long sat in our collective imagination as a pure wilderness. And over the past few years, with the growth of expedition cruising, it’s become more accessible than ever, though in the grand scheme of things, Antarctica is not a place many have visited. Legends and half-truths still cloak the Antarctic in a layer of mystery. Here are some of the common myths that exist around Antarctica and the truths behind them.
It’s so cold, you’ll need to spend a fortune on gear
The first day I was in Antarctica, it was so warm you could wear a T-shirt.
Before visiting Antarctica, I think most people believe it’s the coldest place on Earth and that coming as a tourist, you must be fully kitted out in expedition gear. Only part of that is true. In the dead of winter, the East Antarctica Plateau takes the top prize as the coldest place in the world with a record-breaking -98C. But none of us plebs are going there, let alone in winter. The Antarctic tourism season runs from November to March. With long hours of daylight during mid-summer, the temperatures can range between a more bearable -2C and 8C.
These days there are cruise ships everywhere
Most tourists visit by way of small expedition ships. Tourism is strictly managed by IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators), so you won’t be seeing any of those large cruising ships. Almost all have fewer than 200 passengers on board because the landings are very limited in terms of the number of people allowed out at a time.
Antarctica is ice and snow and nothing else
This leads into another myth which is that Antarctica is only ice and snow. Don’t get me wrong, there is plenty of ice and snow here. Nearly 98 per cent of Antarctica is glacial ice cover. But once summer kicks into high gear, the rocks beneath appear - this is where penguins breed. What month you visit Antarctica determines the amount of white. Early in the season in November and December, it’s still covered in snow and there’s often still a lot of sea ice. But by January, a lot of it has melted and you see more of the land exposed. Each month has its own benefits.
Antarctica is for hardcore adventurists
Antarctica is also not only for hardcore adventure junkies. We see those wild expeditions about skiing to the South Pole or climbing the big mountains, but that is only a small number of people. Antarctica is also dotted with scientific stations represented by different countries as they study this unique place. Protected by the Antarctic Treaty, since the Cold War, Antarctica is preserved as a scientific reserve with freedom of scientific investigation with no military activity permitted on the continent. Port Lockroy is situated on Goudier Island in the Palmer Archipelago and is looked after by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust - many ships call in here. Going by expedition ship means many people of all levels of adventure can visit. For the most part, no one is allowed to stay on land - there are no hotels or places to stay. You sleep on the ship and do landings every day, travelling by zodiac back and forth between the ship. You don’t need to be a mountaineer, intrepid sailor or intense outdoors person to enjoy it all. The ships accommodate most types of traveller, with different options daily.
The sea is wild; the waves are the size of mountains
Another myth is the dangerous and wild seas. The Southern Ocean has definitely earned its reputation with the Roaring 40s, Furious 50s, and Screaming 60s. But it’s only on open sea crossings generally where you might encounter big seas. If it’s too big or dangerous, itineraries change - this is the heart of expedition cruising: Mother Nature dictates the plans. It’s all part of the adventure. If it was like the Mediterranean, everyone would go.
The most adventurous part of a voyage is often crossing the Drake Passage between Argentina and the Antarctic Peninsula, where most tour operators begin and end. It’s a two-day sail that is either calm or insane. There’s no middle ground. But don’t let it deter you - they make great seasickness pills these days, and once you’re in Antarctica, it’s all worth it. Also, once you get to land, everything is a lot more sheltered, often with no swells at all. I’ve seen mirror-like conditions on the water many times.
Visiting Antarctica is very expensive
If I had to pick the biggest myth about travelling to Antarctica, it would have to be that it’s very expensive to visit. Spoiler alert - you can absolutely visit Antarctica on a budget. You can also go wild and splurge on very expensive luxury expeditions too. The longer the trip, like those that include South Georgia, are pricier. One of the great things about the growth of tourism here is that prices have dropped, and there are more budget-friendly companies like Chimu Adventures. Many trips run for less than $17,000 in cheaper cabins, and although that’s not a small amount of cash, it’s not as much as some might expect. If you book far in advance, you can often get better deals, or even half off that price. It’s still Antarctica though - it’s far!
If you have a couple of friends who want to do the trip, a triple-share or quad cabin aboard a research-style vessel can make things a lot cheaper, too. You can also hang around Ushuaia during the summer in Argentina, the port city where most of the Antarctic ships depart from, and often there are deeply discounted last-minute sales to fill the few remaining beds, where you can book in less than a week before for a couple of thousand dollars, even on the priciest trips. Because it’s so expensive to operate these trips, companies often make sure there are no empty spaces on board.