Beaches with a twist. West Waikato's iron-rich sands froth with natural thermal activity, making it a unique seaside experience. Photo / Hamilton Waikato Tourism
Head west along the winding roads of Waikato’s rugged hill country for family fossil-hunting adventures and hot spring wallowing, writes Ceana Priest.
Spanning the void between rural Waikato townships dotted along State Highway 3 and wind-whipped dunes beside the Tasman Sea, there’s a rugged hill country shaped by millions of years of ancient landmass uplift and watery submersion. Drive west into this aftermath of tectonic upheaval on quiet, winding roads to a landscape peppered with dormant volcanoes, fossil-rich streambeds, deep forested valleys and iron-rich sand beaches bubbling with thermal activity. Discover limestone bluffs made famous by director Sir Peter Jackson, forest regeneration projects endorsed by Dr David Bellamy and low-key wallowing holes famous only to the locals. Bring the togs, binoculars and tasty trail snacks on these five adventures out west.
Karakariki Track | Whatawhata
Unearth long-buried sea creatures and shells at this fossil fossicking spot only 20 minutes from Hamilton. Wander past grazing cattle and across swing bridges before following a small stream shaded by regenerating shrubbery and trees to the Karakariki Waterfall – which is also a popular summer swimming spot. But even in the cooler months, there’s enough here to keep the kids entertained hunting for fossils lurking in the shallow stream bed and some chilly toe-dipping action. Bring snacks and perhaps a spare set of clothes, as winter sometimes turns this into a fun muddy adventure.
Need to know: Walking only. A mix of dirt and grass paths. Stiles to cross. Allow 60 minutes for a quick out-and-back. No facilities. Drive 5 minutes past Whatawhata on SH23, turn on to Karakariki Rd, then left at Karakariki Christian Camp on to Karakariki Valley Rd. No dogs.
Te Puia Springs | Kāwhia
These natural springs near Kāwhia don’t draw the crowds like Hot Water Beach on the Coromandel Peninsula, so you’ll likely be bathing solo — ideal for unpopulated wallowing beside the Tasman Sea. For two hours on either side of low tide, the vast beach will delight kids, who can wash sand-encrusted limbs in toasty warm puddles after rolling down the dunes. Follow the path over the dunes to a seam of hot water at about “two o’clock” when viewed from the dunes, or wander around the low-tide mark, digging your toes in to feel the warmth of the springs bubbling to the surface. The sand is quite firm, and deep pools are difficult to dig even with spades. But you can make shallow pools and watch the crashing waves. Avoid rogue waves submerging pools with chilly water by visiting when the tide is retreating.
Need to know: A short 5-10 minute dune walk. No lifeguards. Toilets near the car park. From Kāwhia, drive to the end of Te Puia Rd (occasionally signposted as Ocean Beach Rd). Dogs on leads.
Waitanguru Falls Walk | Piopio
A leisurely wander through the moss-draped forest leads to this misty waterfall tumbling 15 metres into a plunge pool surrounded by dense forest. It’s a short adventure but a worthy detour while travelling in the area – a highlight is seeing the hundreds of purple-red parataniwha plants blanketing the damp streambeds. Look out for Denize Bluffs as you drive along Mangaotaki Road; these 90-metre-high and nearly 2-kilometre-long bluffs are where Sir Peter Jackson filmed scenes for The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, including Trollshaws Forest, and where Gandalf bestowed the sword ‘Sting’ upon Bilbo. You’ll need to take a tour with Hairy Feet Waitomo Scenic Film Location Tour (hairyfeetwaitomo.co.nz) to visit the limestone cliffs.
Need to know: Walking only — well-graded path with steps. Allow 20 minutes return. No toilets. 19 kilometres from Piopio on Mangaotaki Rd. No dogs.
Give the legs a workout on this loop which descends abruptly into a forested valley filled with ferns and rimu before levelling out at the Waikuku Stream, shaded by a dense canopy. The restoration of this 1100-hectare native bush remnant was officially launched in 2002 by botanist Dr David Bellamy. Today, the treetops in this regenerating valley are home to feathered natives, including kārearea/New Zealand falcon, kōtare/sacred kingfisher, korimako/bellbird and ruru/morepork. Exit the valley up thigh-hurting steep steps. The last stretch along a fence line has terrific views of Kāwhia before the trail connects with the road for a short walk back to the lodge.
Need to know: Walking only. Allow 90 minutes for the 2.5-kilometre-long loop. Parking beside Te Kauri Lodge at 3679 Kāwhia Rd (SH31) — about 20 minutes before Kāwhia. No dogs.
Ed Hillary Hope Reserve | Waitetuna
This bright patch of regenerating greenery surrounded by barren pasture-topped ridgelines has adventures for all energy levels. The Valley Walk (30 minutes return) is an easy stroll along a 4WD path through the lower valley – ideal for younger children. Or, explore the Mangakiriri Loop Track for an energetic climb along a bush-clad ridgeline that climbs to a vantage point with views across the Waikato Basin (100 minutes return). The former erosion-prone farm is regenerating with thriving tōtara, rimu and kāmahi, attracting many natives, including flocks of kererū/New Zealand pigeons that congregate in late summer to feed on tawa and miro fruits.
Need to know: Walking only. 732 Old Mountain Rd, Waitetuna – about 30 minutes from Hamilton. Toilet near the car park. No dogs.
Ceana Priest is the author of the kid-friendly Outdoor Kid guidebooks. outdoorkid.co.nz