20 must-see B&Bs

JILL MALCOLM and GREG HOLDSWORTH independently reviewed around 200 quality B&Bs and self-contained cottages for Boutique Lodgings of New Zealand. We've whittled down the list to give you a snapshot of special places to stay.

The Wheelhouse Inn and Captain's Quarters, Nelson

This view took my breath away. In this highly elevated position, the outlook over Tasman Bay is magic. The Wheelhouse and the adjacent Captain's Quarters are modern, multilevel houses and, at $130 for a whole house, good value.

The fronts of the buildings are mostly glass so there is no shortage of light or access to the view. With the skilled use of timber and quality furnishings, the decor is modern and uncluttered. The nautical theme, using pictures and old boating paraphernalia, adds interest, even for landlubbers.

Both houses have well-equipped, modern kitchens (no dishwasher, but everything else) lounges with great views, TVs, CD players and DVDs.

The Wheelhouse, on three levels, has one bedroom and its own barbecue area on a patio next to the kitchen. The Captain's Quarters (10m away) is on two levels and, off the lounge, has a balcony that overlooks the bay.

It also has a small extra bedroom with "boat-cabin" bunks. The hosts live up the drive, but they make an effort not to interrupt your stay.

Just five minutes from the heart of Nelson and located on a hill that is surrounded by trees and shrubs, it is peaceful and the waterfront is not far away.

* Location and hosts

Ralph and Sally Hetzel, 41 Whitby Rd, Nelson

Ph: (03) 546 8391

fax: (03) 546 8391

Email: wheelhouse@ts.co.nz

* Tariff

$130 for two people, plus $15 for each additional person.

* Breakfast: Charged as extra.

Magic Cottage, Kerikeri

If you had ever thought of truly getting away from stress, noise, pollution and anything defining a city, Magic Cottage is the answer. The only sound is of the bird life and the river lapping against the deck.

It's true back to basics as there is no electricity - the fridge, stove, hot water, heating and lighting are gas - but modern construction ensures you will be comfortable and won't want for anything. The cottage is intimate studio style, but spills on to a deck.

Imagine long summer nights, the river running under the deck, the barbecue. The homestead is a few minutes' walk away, and the river is unlikely to have any passers-by, so this is indeed seclusion.

Host Maureen Elliott is a keen gardener and the 2ha garden is available for guests to admire; here you are likely to see a variety of birdlife: rosellas, grey heron, guinea fowl, shags, geese, paradise ducks or doves.

The pontoon and dinghy are available to use, so you can head by boat down the river to the estuary and surf beach.

* Location and hosts

John and Maureen Elliott, Takou Bay Rd

Waipapa SH10, Kerikeri


Ph: (09) 407 8065

mobile (025) 760 675

Fax: (09) 407 8403

* Tariff

A self-contained cottage, sleeps a maximum of two, is $150 a night.

* Breakfast: Not available.

Ludbrook House, Ohaeawai

Sam and Christine Ludbrook welcomed us into their home as if we were old friends, immediately making us welcome. The house also doubles as an art gallery, and works by a number of Northland and national painters are on display.

Christine is a passionate cook and runs a fine cuisine business, selling innovative gourmet specialties sourced from Northland produce. I recommend spending an evening with these two natural hosts, enjoying the results of Christine's culinary skill and sharing Sam's knowledge of the history of the area.

Ludbrook House is on the 428ha farm that has been in the family since the 1860s. The couple have a wide knowledge of the surrounding area and the Maori pa, burial ground and archeological site on the property.

It is an ideal base for day trips as it is mid-way between the east and west coasts. Lazy people may choose to lie by the pool close to the house but just as alluring are the golf courses nearby, the fishing grounds of the Bay of Islands, thermal springs, glow-worm caves and kauri forests.

* Location and hosts

Sam and Chris Ludbrook, SH1, Ohaeawai.

Ph: (09) 405 9846

fax: (09) 405 9846

Email: ludbrook@xtra.co.nz

* Tariff

Single $304, double, $608 a person, a night.

* Cooked breakfast and dinner and beverages included.

Waikopou, Waiheke Island

If you are into unusual architecture, Waikopou will provide a rewarding stay, with the bonus of bush-clad seclusion and views to the Hauraki Gulf. This earth-brick home is fully self-contained and perfect for a group of two couples or a family.

The construction provides plenty of character and the detail work and furnishings complement the architecture beautifully. The Japanese bath is a unique feature but there are, of course, the more usual shower facilities for the less adventurous.

The hosts live on the same 9ha but are hidden away so you can maximise your privacy. There is private access to the beach just a five-minute walk away, bush walks, a boat mooring and clay pigeon shooting, or you may chose to hide inside with the CD player, TV and video, library and fully equipped kitchen, with just the occasional visit outdoors to the local wineries. There is nothing you could want for here - just bring your wine, food and good company, then settle in for a weekend of indulgence.

* Location and hosts

Louise Thomas and Michael Holden, Cowes Bay Rd, Waiheke Island

Ph: (09) 372 7883

mobile: (021) 663 224

fax: (09) 372 9971

Email: info@waikopou.co.nz

* Tariff

One night/one person $350, additional nights $300, additional person $100.

* Breakfast: Not available.

Stafford Villa, Birkenhead Point

I immediately felt at home here. The house is peaceful and has a bright and happy ambience reinforced by the hosts who emphasise a flexible approach to the requirements of guests.

Chris and Mark are well-travelled and this is evidenced in the excellent restoration of this turn-of-the-century villa. It is furnished and decorated with antiques and art from Europe and Asia, and covered with fabrics and wallpapers from the United States. The hosts treat their guests to fine linen and comfortable bedding and furniture, and there are thoughtful touches such as chunky lavender soaps, bathrobe kimonos and Wedgwood china.

Mark is a fifth-generation New Zealander and the couple have an enthusiastic understanding of this long-established area of Auckland, which is close to the sea, restaurants and nature walks.

My bedroom opened through French doors on to the wrap-around verandah which has a wide view over a gully of mature trees, where I watched native pigeons cavorting in the leafy canopy.

Hardest choice was for breakfast. I narrowed it down to strawberries and melon, whitebait fritters and toasted crumpets, all elegantly served and a very good start to the day.

* Location and hosts

Chris and Mark Windram, 2 Awanui St, Birkenhead Point.

Ph: (09) 418 3022

mobile: (021) 614 022

fax: (09) 419 8197

Email: rest@staffordvilla.co.nz

* Tariff

Single $215, double $245 a person

* Breakfast: Cooked.

Evening meal: $75 a person.

The Monastery, Hamilton

There is still the odd tell-tale sign that this magnificent old building used to be a monastery. I found it fascinating to wander around the old chapel - now a cosy guest living area - and the remnants of the confessional.

Beautifully and passionately restored, this 1907 building has a historic feel, and not at the expense of any comfort. It boasts large open fires, plenty of rimu and kauri woodwork and panelling, pressed-steel ceilings, stained-glass windows and antiques.

Two guest rooms in the house share a bathroom, and two in an adjoining wing have separate entries and ensuite facilities. This configuration combined with quiet verandahs and numerous garden areas lets you be as private or as sociable as you wish.

Breakfast is a feature here - the hosts really spoil their guests. A landscape designer has created a large garden full of interesting and rare plants, including a superb collection of old-fashioned roses. Highland cattle, budgies and horses share the quiet, peaceful, rural 4ha which border the Waikato River. There is even a small beach at the bottom of the garden.

* Location and hosts

Robert and Diana Scott, 212B Newell Rd, Hamilton.

Ph: (07) 856 9587

fax: (07) 856 9512

Email: TheMonastery@xtra.co.nz

* Tariff

Rooms range from $130 a night for a single to $170 for a double.

* Breakfast: Special cooked.

Evening meal: $55 a person.

Endsleigh Cottages, Havelock North

Self-contained, self-catering accommodation is available in three cottages, each capturing the feel of yesteryear and the comfort and convenience of today. The property is a rural hideaway not far from Havelock North. The cottages have been restored the hard way - lots of work stripping paint and preparing the exposed timber using traditional methods.

The larger cottages are fully equipped houses and have kitchens, laundries, bathrooms, sitting rooms with comfortable sofas and open fires and separate bedrooms. The largest cottage has an additional double bedroom with ensuite. The main rooms in the larger cottages open on to wrap-around verandahs, fitting places for consuming the day's wine pickings, then a game of croquet or petanque before dinner served al fresco.

The little cottage comprises a large bedroom and bathroom, which is great for a night or two, but the larger cottages are more suited to a longer stay. All cottages have barbecues and mountain bikes and access to the lawn tennis court.

"A charming place of elegance, harmony and tranquillity" wrote some past guests - we couldn't agree more.

* Location and hosts

Margie and Denis Hardy, Endsleigh Rd and Middle Rd, Havelock North

Ph: (06) 877 7588

mobile: (0274) 443 800

fax: (06) 876 0275

Email: Endsleigh.cottages@xtra.co.nz

* Tariff

Single $100, double $100. Self-contained cottage: single $150, double $150-$200.

* Breakfast: Provisions supplied.

Evening meal: $50 a person.

West Wellow, Taupo

This stately, colonial-style house is on a ridge overlooking Taupo Lake and township and offers quiet pleasure. I was compelled to slow down and take in the house and the garden from every perspective: upstairs the sumptuous cream-and-beige bedroom suites; the guest lounge downstairs with its chandeliers and restful charm; the classical dining room; the semi-formal garden that curves gracefully around the house; the groomed lawns; the rose gardens and the summer house.

Each bedroom opens to a private portion of the long verandah where I sat out and watched the lights of Taupo flick into life.

Ian and Mary can arrange dinner at Lake Taupo Lodge next door, a short walk through a well-lit garden, or they can take you to one of Taupo's many restaurants.

In the morning it was a treat to eat a generous breakfast on the patio under a large sun umbrella as fresh sunlight brushed the water of the lake.

I found West Wellow romantic and chic, attracting visitors from all over the world who appreciate its oasis of serenity.

* Location and hosts

Ian and Mary Smith, 39 Mapara Rd, Acacia Bay, Taupo.

Ph: (07) 378 0453

mobile: (021) 455 975

Fax: (07) 378-0635

Email: bookings@westwellow.co.nz

* Tariff

From $150-$300 a single room, to $300-$450 (double) a night.

* Breakfast: Cooked.

The Lake House, Rotorua

When you leave the Lake House you will probably talk as much about the host and hostess as you will about the setting, which is on the lake edge with its own sandy beach.

Susan and Warwick look after their guests as if they are favoured friends. Their home was built around 1930 as a fishing lodge and has retained its relaxed holiday feeling. A wide verandah runs the length of the front aspect, which faces the lake.

I enjoyed sitting in a wicker chair reading the paper, happy to be close to the lake environment. Susan brought me morning tea with strawberry muffins.

Later I wandered down to the water to try a spot of kayaking. More adventurous guests are welcome to use the windsurfers.

The bedrooms have views of the lake and open on to the verandah. With all the attractions of the lake and the comfortable corners in the rest of the house, you will not want to spend a lot of time there except for sleeping.

Coffee lovers note: there is an espresso machine on site.

* Location and hosts

Warwick and Susan Kay, 5 Cooper Ave, Holdens Bay, Rotorua

Ph: (07) 345 3313

fax: (07) 345 3310

Email: susank@xtra.co.nz

* Tariffs

Single rooms $100, doubles $110-$130.

* Breakfast: Cooked.

Evening meal: $40 a person.

Longwood - The Cottage Collection, Featherston

The Cottage Collection comprises three self-contained dwellings sited in the immense grounds of Longwood, which is one of the opulent, historic sheep-station homesteads of the Wairarapa.

Two of the cottages have been designed in the U-shaped, brick stable complex and each has its own character.

The Groom's Quarters is romantically rustic, with a double bedroom, one with brass-bedhead bunks, and above the dining room (once the tack room) a ladder leads to a loft with twin beds. Above the open fire in the sitting room is the cabinet, in which grooms kept their keys.

The Mews is larger, with a lofty, beamed ceiling, a large, light lounge, mezzanine and ground-floor bedrooms and a modern kitchen and bathroom. The look is contemporary.

The third cottage - the Gamekeeper's - is separated from the other two. It is a timber building of the 1850s, which was originally the cookhouse and is now decorated in a comfortable and understated colonial style, complete with potbelly fire, clawfoot bath and a fascinating antique kitchen stove. We stayed here but any would have been an experience. Stay as long as you can - we loved it.

* Location and hosts

Marguerite Tait-Jamieson and Garrick Emms

Longwood Rd East

Featherston.

Ph: (06) 308 8289

fax: (06) 308 8189

Email: longwood@xtra.co.nz

* Tariff

Single and double rooms from $168.75-$225.

* Breakfast: Provisions supplied.

Edgewater, Wellington

If you don't need to be in the middle of town, Seatoun is a lovely place to stay. Edgewater home-stay is aptly named as it is separated from Karaka Bay by a quiet seaside road. The area is quaint and relaxed, yet is just a 10-minute drive into the centre of Wellington and the airport.

Stella and Colin's large home is a 1970s design. The guest-rooms are located separately from the hosts' quarters, so privacy is no problem. Our room was at the rear of the house, with French doors opening on to a patio, and it felt as though we were the only people around. With tea and coffee facilities, TV and ensuite, we could hide away from the world.

It was wonderful to arrive at our accommodation, slip into our casual gear and meander along the waterfront. I found it a great way to unwind.

As an ex-restaurateur, Stella is no stranger to the hospitality scene and her elegant sense of style and sensitivity towards our needs ensured we had an enjoyable stay.

* Location and hosts

Stella and Colin Lovering, 459 Karaka Bay Rd, Seatoun, Wellington.

Ph: (04) 388 4446

mobile: (021) 613 357

fax: (04) 388 4446.

* Tariff

Single rooms: $140-$230. Doubles: $160-$250.

* Breakfast: Cooked.

Evening meal: $70 a person.

Old St Mary's Convent, Blenheim

The former Saint Mary's Convent built in 1901, is now up-market guest accommodation. This huge building, with its many verandahs, houses the hosts and has four large suites for guests.

The elegantly appointed living areas include a billiard room and, because the convent has recently been renovated, guests are provided with modern luxuries in an environment that reflects the original use of the building.

Newly added is the honeymoon suite, a replica of the old house chapel, which will take your breath away. The convent is on 8ha of immaculately landscaped, formal lawn and gardens which are surrounded by vineyards and olive groves.

Our bedroom was spacious and light with a huge bathroom, complete with a unique, deep, oval bath. All ensuites have baths as well as showers and feature beautiful toiletries.

Breakfast was fresh fruit, yoghurt and cereals and a cooked selection of bagels and lox, waffles and pancakes. There is a historic, deconsecrated church on the property that is mostly used for small functions.

* Location and hosts

Wilfried and Mieke Holtrop, Rapaura Rd, Blenheim.

Ph: (03) 570-5700

fax: (03) 570-5700

Email: retreat@convent.co.nz

* Tariff

From $240, single to $295, double. Suite, $395, family suite $395.

* Breakfast: Cooked.

Broomfield, Renwick

This rammed-earth building has been built overlooking the spectacular garden to the hills surrounding the Marlborough plains.

Kaye and Gary are keen, helpful hosts but their enthusiasm is tempered with an understanding that guests need their privacy. On the patio at dusk, the rural setting, the lime-washed walls of the house and the large, formal gardens foster a wonderful feeling of relaxation where you can enjoy a glass of wine.

There is just one large guest room which is separate from the hosts and has been decorated with the same flair as the rest of the house. There are two guest bathrooms, one with a shower and toilet, the other an ensuite with a bath and vanity. But of course both the bathrooms are for just one couple to use.

Your hosts are garden enthusiasts and there is an abundance of colour, fragrance and creativity.

* Location and hosts

Kaye and Gary Green, 35 Inkerman St, Renwick.

Ph: (03) 572 8162

* Tariff

Single $100, double $140.

* Breakfast: Special cooked.

Wilderness Lodge, Arthurs Pass

This 20-room lodge is nestled beneath the mountain beech forest in the heart of the Southern Alps, surrounded by Arthurs Pass National Park.

Each guest room has superb views of the Southern Alps and the river below. Well designed and spacious, the guest rooms feature New Zealand timbers and have been decorated with flair and imagination.

Twenty kilometres of easy walking tracks radiate from the lodge. Maps allow guests to explore these on their own or a guide may be hired for a half or full day.

Included in the tariff is a daily programme of shorter guided nature and farm discovery tours, including mustering and shearing merino sheep, canoeing on high country lakes and exploring beech forest and tussock lands for birds and alpine plants.

We took a short guided trip with our host and I was amazed at how much there was to learn about the environment here, even in the immediate area around the lodge.

This lodge is associated with Wilderness Lodge Lake Moeraki in the rainforests of South Westland. Both are designed to show that well-managed ecotourism can protect the environment and provide employment to small communities.

* Location and hosts

Gerry McSweeney and Anne Saunders, SH73, Arthurs Pass

Ph: (03) 318 9246

fax: (03) 318 9245

Email: arthurspass@wildernesslodge.co.nz

* Tariff

20 rooms. Single $290-$380, double $380-$520.

Tariff includes a four-course dinner, breakfast and two guided short nature activities daily.

Claremont House, Amberley

This singular homestead on the Claremont Estate was built of hand-cut, sandstone block in 1860, and surrounded by orchards and gardens.

The new owners have returned this heritage building to a state of grace, so that guests can indulge in the sort of privileged country-living that once thrived here. A vine-covered verandah that shades part of the house is a restful place to take tea and keep an eye on the croquet lawn. Several rooms open on to a stone courtyard dominated by a large bolder fountain and a raised barbecue pavilion.

Inside, a wide hallway leads from one delightful room to the next. Downstairs are two sitting rooms, a twin bedroom, the large dining room and a modern kitchen. All other bedrooms are upstairs.

They have luxurious ensuites and are furnished with uncluttered elegance allowing the magnificent antique pieces to receive the attention they deserve.

But a stay here offers more than the house and garden. If you stay for two nights or more, your hosts take you on complimentary farm tour of the 700ha, working sheep, deer and cattle station, which includes a spectacular limestone escarpment with astonishing geological formations such as "God's Marbles".

* Location and hosts

Susan and Richard Goord, 828 Ram Paddock Rd, Amberley.

Ph: (03) 314 7559

mobile (025) 274 7875

fax: (03) 314 7065

Email: stay@claremont-house.com

* Tariff

Single: $260-$325. Double: $350-$435.

* Breakfast: Cooked.

Evening meal: $65 a person by arrangement.

The Weston House, Christchurch

Len and Stephanie are only the third owners of this landmark, Georgian-style mansion and they have spent nearly two years working to return it to its former grandeur within the confines of a category-one, historic grading.

It was once one of Christchurch's most prestigious homes and so it is today. Where the cooks, nannies and housekeepers once lived is now an opulent, two-suited wing for guests. Both rooms have tiled ensuites, dressing and lounge areas and every conceivable convenience and extra, adding up to luxurious accommodation of the highest standard.

At 7pm, we were invited to have a glass of wine with Len and Stephanie and other guests. This was served in the showpiece of the house - the elegant drawing room, featuring lavish russet curtaining, butter-yellow walls and a glorious blend of antiques.

In fine weather drinks are served on the sunny porch overlooking the formal garden, bordered by roses and native and exotic trees. Stephanie has decorated this grand old house with great flair and sympathy for its era. The couple enjoy pampering guests and seeing other people appreciate the house as much as they do.

* Location and hosts

Len and Stephanie May, 62 Park Tce, Christchurch.

Ph: (03) 366 0234

mobile: (025) 242 7325

fax: (03) 366 5254

Email: enquiries@westonhouse.co.nz

* Tariff

$315 a room.

* Breakfast: Cooked.

Mill Cottage, Akaroa

The character and charm of this cottage are hard to beat. The dining area extends to what was the kitchen with bench, tea/coffee and glassware.

French doors open out to the sunny verandah which is a good place to relax with an iced tea, breakfast tea or perhaps a G&T.

This tranquil setting was once the site of Canterbury's first water-driven flour mill.

Hosts Joan and John have enhanced the surroundings with shrubs and gardens that blend in well with a number of well-established trees. Their home is a short distance away and faces away from the cottage to preserve a feeling of privacy.

Rarely have I seen such a good restoration, with such sympathetic decoration and furniture.

* Location and hosts

Joan and John Galt, Rue Grehan, Akaroa.

Ph: (03) 304 8007

fax: (03) 304 8007

Email: millcottage@xtra.co.nz

* Tariff

Single: $100. double $130.

* Breakfast: Special continental.

Tokarahi Homestead, North Otago

I have heard it said you don't really get to see New Zealand unless you are willing to get off the main road. A stay at Tokarahi Homestead gives credence to this.

The lodge is in a secluded inland haven near Danseys Pass and is a picturesque and dramatic entrance to the Maniototo Region. This Historic Places Trust-classified property was built around 1878, and ongoing additions completed the grand limestone homestead around 1891.

Arts and craft-style wall coverings of French wallpaper and gold and silver leaf embossing have been painstakingly restored by Mike and Lyn, an indication of their persistence and passion. Indulge in the fine dining on offer in the formal dining room with your gracious hosts and enjoying an evening of opulence and elegance.

The spacious guest facilities are finished to a high standard and well furnished with period antiques. Some of the rooms have fireplaces, French doors to the garden or clawfoot baths.

* Location and hosts

Mike and Lyn Gray, 47 Dip Hill Rd, Tokarahi.

Ph: (03) 431 2500

fax: (03) 431 2551

Email: tokarahi@xtra.co.nz

* Tariffs

$190-$270 a room based on double occupancy.

* Breakfast: Cooked or continental.

Browns Boutique Hotel, Queenstown

This place is exactly as its name suggests - a 10-bedroom, purpose-built accommodation in the heart of Queenstown. A mere three-minute walk down a lane brought me to the start of the action - the cafes, restaurant bars and boutique shops.

A Mediterranean style is hinted at in the white, rough-plastered walls of the spacious rooms and the glass doors that open to Juliet balconies, where guests have the full advantage of views over the Remarkables, Queenstown Hill and Lake Wakatipu.

Each room is similar and thoughtfully equipped with everything you might need (the two downstairs ones don't have such a good view and have showers but not baths).

The bathrooms in all rooms are fully tiled and modern and the fittings and furnishings throughout are of a high quality.

Downstairs, an attractively tiled and walled courtyard with outdoor furniture and a good view of the mountains is a great place to catch the sun.

In colder weather there is a large lounge/library with an open fire and leather chairs and the ambience of an exclusive club.

A continental breakfast with cold meat and cheese is served in the well-appointed dining room.

* Location and hosts

Nigel and Bridget Brown, 26 Isle St, Queenstown.

Ph: (03) 441 2050

fax: (03) 441 2060

Email; stay@brownshotel.co.nz

* Tariff

Single, $180, double $220.

* Breakfast: Continental.

Lisburn House, Dunedin

Dunedin's first brick-built house (circa 1865) has a distinctive profile. Its steeply pitched rooflines, pointed gable ends and bold geometric patterns formed by cream bricks against the red make it instantly recognisable.

The front door, inset with colourful motifs in glass, is opened to us and we enter into the marble-tiled foyer and a circle of warmth that remains for the rest of our stay.

Seated in deep leather chairs around logs burning in a raised oval fireplace, Alan and Olivia tell us they spent three years trying to buy this Victorian/Gothic-style house. The couple owned and ran Roganos Restaurant in the centre of town for 27 years.

They have set up an intimate and exclusive restaurant in the front drawing room of Lisburn House. Try the seafood chowder and the wild venison - house specialties.

The foyer is a fitting introduction to the style of the rest of the house - its panelled dining room with a heavily carved fireplace inset with copper, the elegant Victorian parlour and the hanging staircase leading to the three guest bedrooms.

These are light and spacious, with whimsical canopies over the beds. This house is a charming place in which to experience some of the history and character of Dunedin.

* Location and hosts

Olivia Richmond-Johnstone and Alan Johnston, 15 Lisburn Ave, Caversham, Dunedin.

Ph: (03) 455 8888

fax: (03) 455 6788

Email: stay@lisburnhouse.co.nz

* Tariff

Single $140, double $175-$215.

* Breakfast: Cooked.

* * *

* The above is an abridged extract from

Boutique Lodgings of New Zealand

* For B&Bs in Australia see: OZ Bed and Breakfast