Europe best cities for LGBTQ+ travellers include Paris. Photo / Getty Images
While international travel can, of course, still be an issue for LGBTQ+ travellers, thankfully in the past two decades things have changed beyond all recognition for visitors to most parts of Europe. As a lifelong Londoner, here are my dozen picks, from the comfortably familiar to lesser-known hotspots equally worth discovering.
London
Male same-sex activity was legalised in England and Wales in 1967, and the biggest cities, such as Manchester, Birmingham and Newcastle, all boast impressive LGBTQ+ communities. London is especially dazzling, whether it’s hedonistic Vauxhall, just south of the Thames, or Soho’s long-established Old Compton St. Don’t miss iconic bookshop Gay’s The Word in historic Bloomsbury, as well as East London’s more progressive queer scene, spearheaded by venues like The Glory and Queen Adelaide. To stay in this area book Mama Shelter on Hackney Rd. London’s vast Pride parade, attracting 1.5 million, takes place July 1.
As well as beautiful beaches and a rich history, Malta is one of the globe’s most LGBTQ+-forward countries. One of five countries to make queer rights equal at a constitutional level, it holds first place on ILGA-Europe’s Rainbow Europe Index, which ranks European countries on equality. Pride has grown so popular that this year scenic capital Valletta will host EuroPride, the most major celebration of diversity the islands have ever seen (September 7-17). For one-off LGBTQ+ parties, club nights and a list of queer businesses the best resource is maltagay.com, while a chic accommodation option is Barrakka Suites apartments.
Berlin
Though Berlin was notoriously liberal in the 1920s, same-sex activity was only decriminalised in the late 1960s, with marriage legal since 2017. Berlin’s key LGBTQ+ neighbourhoods include Schöneberg, Mitte and, my preference, Kreuzberg. Head to late-night cafe-bar Melitta Sundström for either a beer or cabaret, while SchwuZ, founded in 1977, is the city’s oldest queer club. A memorial plaque to the gay and lesbian victims of Nazi Germany is at Nollendorfplatz U-Bahn station. To stay in Schöneberg, try “heterofriendly” Axel Hotel, while Berlin Pride runs from June 28 to July 23.
Torremolinos
The third country to legalise gay marriage in 2005, Spain is a brilliantly LGBTQ+-friendly country, from queer capital Madrid – home to Europe’s largest Pride – to Barcelona and Sitges. Fewer people know that its march towards equality started on its southernmost coast. The country’s first-ever gay venue, Toni’s Bar, opened in Torremolinos back in 1962 – under Franco’s dictatorship – and now this lively resort boasts more than 30 bars, stores and other queer-owned businesses, as well as an LGBTQ+ beach visible by its Progress flags. Torremolinos Pride attracts 50,000 (May 28 to June 4); stay at the adults-only Hotel Soho Boutique El Tiburon & Spa.
Ireland
The Republic of Ireland was the world’s first country to legalise same-sex marriage by popular vote in 2015, its capital Dublin boasting a vibrant LGBTQ+ community. Party at LGBTQ+ institutions The George and PantiBar, and stay at centrally-located Temple Bar Inn for the 40th Dublin Pride on June 24. Meanwhile, up in Belfast, Northern Ireland’s capital, the busy gaybourhood is centred around Union St (newest club Libertine is a short walk away). The stunning Titanic Hotel is a strong accommodation choice, while Belfast Pride is July 29.
Mykonos
Mediterranean islands are generally havens for LGBTQ+ travellers, from hedonistic Ibiza to gay mecca Gran Canaria. With same-sex activity legal in Greece since 1951, Mykonos’ rep as queer resort dates back to the 1970s. Nowadays popular venues include Jackie O and Kastro’s, while the Super Paradise Beach Club hotel is handy for the main LGBTQ+ beach. Annual dance festival XLSIOR (Aug 16-23) is attended by 30,000.
Brighton
The unofficial “gay capital” of the UK, Brighton is an essential stop. With dozens of queer-owned businesses centred around St James’s St, which climbs up to the long-established gaybourhood of Kemptown, its friendly atmosphere is quite different from the capital. My tip is a drag crawl on Sunday afternoon, with local queens at popular bars Centre Stage, Charles Street Tap, Broadway, Affinity and the Queen’s Arms all putting on packed free shows. The two most LGBTQ+-friendly hotels are The Amsterdam and Legends, the latter with its own late-night basement club, while the massive Brighton Pride takes place August 5.
Scandinavia’s capital cities – such as Stockholm and Oslo – are easy places for LGBTQ+ visitors to relax, underlined in 1998 by Denmark becoming the world’s first country to recognise same-sex unions. Its capital is home to one of Europe’s oldest gay bars, The Centralhjornet, founded in 1950s (its Sunday jazz sessions are a must). Other venues include lesbian bar Vela, and Bøssehuset (Gay House), home to exhibitions and parties. A well-situated boutique hotel is SP34, while Pride 2023 is August 19.
Glasgow
Same-sex activity in Scotland wasn’t made legal until 1981, with equal marriage arriving in 2014. Yet while capital Edinburgh has long been a safe space for LGBTQ+ visitors, Glasgow is home to a bigger queer scene, from the Waterloo pub, which dates back 50 years, to Merchant City’s “gay triangle”. A must is pioneering LGBTQ+ bookstore Category Is Books on the hip southside. For a well-priced hotel near the main LGBTQ+ district try The Brunswick, while Pride Glasgow on July 15 is the largest in Scotland.
Helsinki
Tom Of Finland, Finland’s leather-clad gay hero, portrayed a macho masculinity during a time when homosexuality was still illegal: now you can take of tour in its capital Helsinki of where author Touko Laaksonen lived, visiting the square in front of Parliament, once a secret gay rendezvous. LGBTQ+ spots to explore include long-established Mann’s Street and Kvääristö for queer women, transgender, and non-binary people. Stay at LGBTQ-friendly design hotel Klaus K. Helsinki Pride takes place July 1.
Rotterdam
The Netherlands decriminalised same-sex activity in 1811, and was the world’s first country to legalise gay marriage in 2001. Its capital Amsterdam is famed for queer-owned businesses, as well as the Homomonument, commemorating those persecuted for their sexual orientation, especially during World War II. While the industrial waterside city of Rotterdam is lesser-known, it’s also home to gay bars and queer-friendly clubs (three to check out are Worm, Tech Noir and Now & Wow), while black ballroom culture is celebrated in regular events, with drag queens and kings performing across the city. Characterful Hotel New York is recommended, while Rotterdam Pride takes place from June 1-10.
Paris
A two-hour Eurostar hop from London takes you to a country where, astonishingly, sodomy laws were repealed in 1791, and the age of consent equalised in 1982. Paris’ LGBTQ+ community has long thrived in the pretty winding streets of Le Marais: if in doubt head to Rues Des Archives for a beer on the terrace at Cox, a city stalwart since the 1990s. Other areas to visit include Montmartre and Oberkampf. Pride takes place on June 24, attended by 700,000, while a boutique hotel to book upfront is Jules Et Jim.