The Savoy Theatre in London was where fairy lights were first created in 1882. Photo / The Savoy
A London holiday is fun at any time of year, but add in twinkling fairy lights, a forest load of fir trees and the odd blow-up reindeer, and the UK capital has more Christmas cheer than Santa’s hip flask, writes Fiona Whitty
Forget about sack-loads of Christmas markets and ice rinks – you can find them anywhere in Europe. London’s true festive joy lies in its quirkier delights. At this time of year the city is packed with unique and off-the-wall experiences that turn it into a veritable Winter Wonderland.
Here is our pick of the best, all tried and tested - including family friendly things to do and, for extra Christmas cheer, stuff for free.
Reckon you can avoid a soggy bottom and create an even bake under pressure? Get a taste of what contestants on The Great Kiwi Bake Off really go through at the Big London Bake, currently with a Christmas twist. During December you and a partner can pit your kitchen skills against other pairs to create a four-tier festive sponge within an hour and a half.
I’m not one to boast – but when we tried it out, a huge red fondant icing bow, plenty of deep green holly like frills and a splatter of silver balls helped a pal and I land the Star Bakers crown. Sadly no TV contract was offered but we did win a cake slice each.
2. Silent night
Want to elevate a stroll around some of London’s best Christmas lights to the next level? Just pop on a pair of headphones, pump out Christmas tunes that no one else can hear and turn that walk into a boogie. Magician Shaun Ames started up his Silent Disco Walking Tours as a dare after a pal said it couldn’t be done. Oh yes it can.
During December a fairy-light-clad guide will lead you around some of London’s most dazzling displays while you dance and sing your heart out to Wham! and Mariah Carey. Don’t worry if you’re out of tune – the headphones mean you won’t hear it anyway (although the rest of Oxford Street will).
There’s nothing like sipping festive cocktails in the birthplace of fairy lights to get you in the Christmas mood. They were created at the Savoy Theatre in 1882 when miniature lights powered by tiny battery packs were fitted into the dresses of the lead fairies in its production of Gilbert and Sullivan’s Iolanthe.
The clever idea was later transferred to Christmas trees – and a festive tradition was launched. Nowadays you can celebrate this immense invention at the brand-new Gallery bar and dining space at the Savoy Hotel next door.
After arriving through a romantic fluttering of artificial snow in the forecourt and a foyer bedecked with huge white feather-effect garlands you can indulge in lovingly crafted cocktails like Lady Bee with gin and Bessou, a honey aperitif, or a Vesper martini, shaken not stirred à la James Bond. Over Christmas, you’ll be able to try one of their mixologists’ yet-to-be-unveiled festive specials too.
4. The ghosts of Christmas past
Pop into the Museum of the Home to discover winter traditions spanning nearly 400 years, to a 1630 midwinter feast celebrating the shortest and darkest day of the year. Other depictions include a Twelfth Night fancy dress ball from two centuries ago and a family Christmas Day from 1978. Entry is free.
5. Merry Christmas, everyone!
We all love the tale of miserly old Scrooge’s Christmas conversion every year. But how about hearing it read by author Charles Dickens himself - and in his Victorian home to boot?
The Great Christmas Feast is a truly immersive experience where guests are invited to the ultimate dinner party – a hearty slap-up feast of roast duck hosted by Dickens (played by the incredible Alex Phelps), performing a first reading of his brand-new book.
The beloved tale of A Christmas Carol comes with the usual ghostly goings-on – acted out superbly by an ever-more-drunken Dickens – plus dancing, music from Royal Opera House orchestra musicians and even the chance of a starring role for some lucky guests.
6. A festive English fry-up
Every December legendary fish and chip shop Poppies gives a Christmas classic a merry spin by serving it deep-fried in batter. Mince pies, sprouts and even Quality Street – Brits’ favourite festive choccy treats – have all had the Poppies treatment and this year it’s the turn of … Christmas pudding.
If you’re in town, visit the Soho branch between December 16 and 29 to give the battered pud a whirl.
7. Oh come all ye faithful
See in Christmas Day surrounded by an angelic choir (and possibly a few merry post-partygoers) at the free Midnight Mass in the historic St Martin-in-the-Fields.
Once the home of the first-ever free lending library, St Martin’s – dubbed ‘the church of the ever-open door’ - was involved in the anti-apartheid movement and the founding of Amnesty International and today supports 7500 of London’s homeless. The 11pm Mass is unticketed.
8. Art attack
Forget about the presents you’ve forgotten to buy or whether you turned your Christmas lights off by entering a world of utter serenity at Frameless, arguably the world’s most immersive art experience. Its four galleries each bring to life some of the world’s most famous canvases, accompanied by calming bespoke music.
Works including Edvard Munch’s The Scream, Vincent van Gogh’s Self Portrait and Claude Monet’s The Waterlily Pond: Green Harmony are beamed around four walls – and sometimes the ceiling and floor too – and injected with movement to transport guests right into their epicentre. For a Christmas vibe, add in a hand-made mince pie and a glass of mulled wine.
9. It’s elementary, Ebenezer.
Scrooge meets Sherlock Holmes in this mash-up of two of Victorian England’s most famous characters. In the fun stage romp A Sherlock Carol, the grumpy investigator is visited by the ghost of Ebenezer himself, who instils in him the festive love of those closest to him, including Dr Watson and Tiny Tim.
The play, fresh from four Christmases on Broadway, was the first production at the Marylebone Theatre when it opened three years ago and has returned every year since.
10. Window shop
You can look but you’d better not touch … now’s the time to take an entertaining peek at some of London’s most prestigious stores, without having to splash out. Venture down to New Bond Street and simply ogle at the decadently decorated fronts of the rich list’s favourite designer brands.
The sensational sets include a 10m-high jewel-bedecked bow covering Chanel, glittering festive carousel displays at Louis Vuitton, a shimmering underwater scene adorning Dior and a fairy-light-encrusted curtain draped over three storeys of Tiffany.
11. Dance it off
If you’re still standing on New Year’s Day hop along to a free afternoon ceilidh at Festival Hall. Pronounced kay-lee, it’s a traditional Scottish social get-together with music and dancing to country reels with names like the Gay Gordons and Strip The Willow.
All ages are welcome, as are beginners, and novices will be guided through the dances.
Checklist
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to London with one stopover with multiple airlines, including Qatar Airways, Emirates, Cathay Pacific, and Singapore Airlines, often on a Star Alliance Codeshare basis.