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Milan Fashion Week: Mila Schon Fall 2013
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Milan Fashion Week: Mila Schon Fall 2013

Mila Schon has turned to a new team of international designers to usher in a new era for the label. The first collection, cold weather clothes for next year, had an ingénue appeal, with flouncy and feminine looks. The design team created volumes with ruffles and blousy effects that projected an easy-to-sketch silhouette. Fur-and-wool coats had tiered ruffle necks. Sheer black spandex turtlenecks finished with a flourish with long, bell-shaped ruffles that start at the elbow. Ample skirts, short and long alike, promised sashay to any walk. Miniskirts and short coats showed off leather high-heeled boots that disappeared beneath the short hemlines. But hemlines on coats, skirts and pants also were left to trail.

Milan Fashion Week: Gucci Fall 2013
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Milan Fashion Week: Gucci Fall 2013

The Gucci woman next winter is a playful mixture of demure and daring. "She seduces with her dangerous femininity," writes creative director Frida Giannini in her show notes. For example, while the season's pencil skirt has a proper several-inches-below-the-knee hemline, the slits up the front and back are not necessarily ladylike. Or take the little black dress, a cocktail-hour must — until Giannini ups the ante with fetching see-through lace, leather inserts and low-cut backs and necklines. In the constructed collection, jackets are generally small, with either a soft or well-defined shoulder. Coats are cut close to the body, except for a single mannish coat in cornflower blue with a black Astrakhan collar. Skirts are worn high for a delicate take on the waist, and the tapered and short pants are more sweet than sexy. However, the recurrent fishnet tights complete with black seam underlined the fetching mood of the collection.

Milan Fashion Week: Ferretti Fall 2013
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Milan Fashion Week: Ferretti Fall 2013

The latest Alberta Ferretti winter collection could be labeled minimal Victorian. There were many of the elements of 19th century fashion, from the high collars, wide skirts, rich fabrics and austere embroidery, but on a paired down silhouette. A simple sheath takes on yesteryear allures when it comes in rich velvet and prominent jeweled embroidery. On the other hand a suit with hoop skirt and peplum jacket, is updated by making the skirt a little narrower and the jacket smaller. Eveningwear keeps old-age accents, but is cut in a contemporary long and slim style. Fancy fur wraps are reversible with a cozy felt lining, which in a minute can turn posh into pedestrian.

London Fashion Week: Erdem Fall 2013
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London Fashion Week: Erdem Fall 2013

London designer Erdem Moralioglu has garnered a long list of fans with his delicate, ice cream-coloured floral dresses, but this season he decided to put a darker twist on his romantic style. The show began with all-black dress and coat ensembles, with a rich mix of textures to keep things interesting: Feather trims, boucle, exposed zips and shimmering sequins on sheer blouses. There were deep burgundy and black lace dresses with a contrasting pale blue collar, followed by Erdem's signature florals in knee-length dresses. The frocks introduced pinks, purples and neon yellows to the collection's palette, though the color was largely subdued by the sheer black layers over them. The final pieces of the collection returned to just black, playing on sheer layers of lace, velvet and polka dots — sometimes all together.

Wacky and revealing, Pam Hogg dares to bare at London Fashion Week
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Wacky and revealing, Pam Hogg dares to bare at London Fashion Week

Fashion shows have been known to feature a little bit of behind and even racy topless models. But Pam Hogg has pushed nudity to the max. The British designer sent her models down the runway at London Fashion Week in a bold palette of black, red and white done in shiny materials with sculptural hats. But mostly, her models were naked. Actually naked. It was a bold move, one Pam Hogg has toyed with before. But does it detract from the fashion? Here's a selection of snaps that leave just a little bit to the imagination.

London Fashion Week: Burberry Prorsum Fall 2013
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London Fashion Week: Burberry Prorsum Fall 2013

Burberry Prorsum has taken its classic trench coats on safari for a makeover. In a catwalk show that drew stars such as Kate Beckinsale and Michelle Dockery to its front row on Monday, the luxury British brand updated its coats with calfskin and mink in bold leopard and giraffe prints, cinched in with glossy gold belts. The slick runway display - the glitziest of London Fashion Week shows - was just the latest example of how deftly creative director Christopher Bailey combined Burberry's venerable English roots with trendy designs to produce clothes and accessories coveted by women worldwide.

London Fashion Week: Tom Ford Fall 2013
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London Fashion Week: Tom Ford Fall 2013

Ford's show included lacy black tops, brightly coloured metallic skirts, and long, form-fitting black dresses set off by explosive sunbursts of sequinned, metallic colour. The American designer also made use of leopard-printed coats of varying lengths and — in a nod to the 1960s — soft black leather jackets with fringes in the back. Other outfits emphasized a basic colour palette of black and white in interesting contrasts, playing on a zebra-striped theme. The outfits were not revealing but very feminine and flattering, with many jackets offering high neck collars and dramatic shapes.

London Fashion Week: Moschino Cheap & Chic Fall 2013
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London Fashion Week: Moschino Cheap & Chic Fall 2013

Since choosing London as Cheap & Chic’s temporary residence a year ago, Rosella Jardini has infused the young and cheeky collection with some local attitude. For fall, she played to tea-parlor types in an adorably improper way, sending up good girl clothes with a pretty punk spirit, Women’s Wear Daily reported.

London Fashion Week: Vivienne Westwood Fall 2013
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London Fashion Week: Vivienne Westwood Fall 2013

Few designers so consistently mix fashion with politics, or manage to secure her fans' adoration with the same looks almost every season. But Vivienne Westwood is not any designer. The flame-haired grand dame of British fashion on Sunday sent her models marching down the catwalk in her signature tight-fitting dresses and nipped-in jackets, then in the finale joined them wearing a T-shirt emblazoned with a giant image of her own face and a slogan that read "I am Julian Assange." Westwood has been selling the Assange T-shirts to raise funds and support for the WikiLeaks founder, who is living in the Ecuador's Embassy in London. He is seeking asylum from the country to avoid extradition to Sweden to face sexual assault questions. - AP

Inside NOM*d's workroom
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Inside NOM*d's workroom

@iDinsider takes you into the workroom of #iDFW label NOM*d and gives you a glimpse of what designer Margi Robertson will be showing at iD Dunedin Fashion Week 2013.