Hat trick at launch of Dunedin Fashion Week
Headwear of all sizes, colours and styles stole the show at the official iD Dunedin Fashion Week launch.
Headwear of all sizes, colours and styles stole the show at the official iD Dunedin Fashion Week launch.
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Louis Vuitton moved in a more feminine, sensual direction for fall-winter. "It was about intimacy, the mystery of what's going on behind the door," Jacobs said. "It's Hollywood mixed with rive gauche." Accordingly, models in '50s wigs slinked out of a dozen hotel doors wearing satin dresses resembling slips. A bathrobe made from a man's coat followed a crepe dress made with motifs of an undergarment. But the show was also about Kate Moss. Jacobs, who conducted interviews backstage in red pajamas, said the show grew from his close friendship with Moss, and years of dressing her up in hotel rooms. She made a surprise appearance on the catwalk.
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It was the white collars and sublime colors of Vermeer's masterpiece The Girl with the Pearl Earring on the mood board for Valentino. Using the Flemish masters as a starting point, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli delivered a more varied silhouette than last season in vase, trapeze, tulip and column-shaped. It was a welcome change. Short-skirts and some sporty looks with a cool circular edge pattern in red, pale pink, green and blue signalled a slight relaxing for the house known for its austere edge. But this is Valentino, and the high white Flemish-style collar and frequent full-length sleeves ensured this was not forgotten. Still, not all the looks worked. A red dress with white fur collar looked overly theatrical - but this was unimportant, given the show's rich pickings.
Hermes pared down the energy of last season in what was a more classical, intimate ready-to-wear affair. High waists and furs gave proceedings a glamorous edge, with models sporting Greta Garbo waves in their hair. Long tan coats thrown nonchalantly over shoulders and rich capes slightly alluded to a mystery - evoked also in the show setting.
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The show's 79 varied looks brimmed with ideas, classic and new, and showed that the designer in his late 70s is still a creative force to be reckoned with. Models, including Stella Tennant, walked around the circular globe runway sporting stylish new winter concepts in tones of blue, gray, purple, pink and black. Zippable leather leg sheaths - like leggings that start at the thigh and end at the ankle - were warm but allowed thighs to be exposed. And coat silhouettes were cut away squarely in the middle of thighs so legs are visible even on those cold days.
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The inner city's celebration of fashion continues this week with a whole host of fabulous events taking place for the Fashion in the BIG Little City festival.
Fall-winter saw Slimane move on from the 70s boho of the spring to 'California Grunge.' It was imagined as models stomping down the catwalk in leather miniskirts, oversize plaid shirts, biker jackets and baby doll dresses - with crystal-clad body stockings and combat boots. They were mixed up haphazardly, and thrown together almost indifferently with an adolescent nihilism.
After last season's slouchy-chic, Celine's Phoebe Philo upped the elegance to deliver a beautiful play of lines, but one that lost none of her soft touch. For those with a penchant for loose, structured geometry the Paris ready-to-wear show had plenty to offer. That included wide horizontal bands of fabric, streamlined plunging lapels, triangular wide temple guard sleeves, and large angular collars. Relaxed was the word - like a series of clever, knee length sleeveless dresses. Technically, they weren't actually sleeveless: faux sleeves were wrapped around the torso, like a belt. The arms were folded in dishabille resignation, as if to say: I know I'm stylish, but I don't need to prove it. The collection shows the influential London designer at the top of her game.
Chloe makes ready-to-wear and doesn't pretend otherwise. This honest attitude was on full display in Clare Waight Keller's collection in Paris of 41 highly wearable looks. Who needs a lofty concept when much is said in the quality of each individual garment. There were some neat ideas in blue and neutral black, white and gray. A multicolored thick-striped silk dress had a geeky, graphic look with an angular top and patent leather school shoes. "It's about bringing in a toughness, with more attitude," said Waight Keller, backstage.
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Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are taking no risks this autumn-winter season. Following the trend to de-clutter the catwalk, the Dutch duo known as Viktor & Rolf replaced their normally inventive art-infused style with simpler silhouettes and a muted palette of black and white. "It's a feelling of wanting to be real, a wardrobe for women to wear," Horsting said backstage. "And slightly rebellious," he added. "Slightly" was the key word here. There were some subtle nods to rebellion, like dropped waist lines and short flared minis (a clever play on peplums.) But at times it felt like the boundary-pushing excitement that made them famous in the '90s was in hibernation this winter. Perhaps they are tapping into their commercial potential?
The rich fabrics and draped silks brought to Europe by the medieval crusaders inspired Vivienne Westwood's autumn-winter 2013-14 tour de force. Draped feminine silk silhouettes accompanied some sublime silk-wool jacquards with medieval images of birds, flowers and strawberries; as well as capes and puffed Juliette sleeves. "I have a book of reproduced medieval illuminated manuscripts," explained Westwood backstage. Patterns such as rings, polka dots, interrupted lines and squares were aimed to evoke the decorative patterns on the handmade manuscript borders. But perennial eccentric Westwood, who turns 72-years-old next month, loves mixing up her eras.
Issey Miyake cast a few minutes of sunshine over a grey Paris sky on Friday with a show brimming with colour. Checkered patterns added to the fun, and it was invigorating to see them on models, who actually smiled as they walked. The show's inspiration, said designer Yoshiyuke Miyamae, "comes from landscape seen from the sky." Optical crisscrosses of varying thickness created great dynamic movements on stretch fabric, as he imagined an aerial view of a dense forest. Not all of the 42 looks worked. Some came across as busy, especially toward the end. But the mastery of tonal color really stole the show. Tops in rich ultramarine, vivid jade and vermilion saw colors blocked together in changing intensities. And discords such as green with bright turquoise made pockets stand out.
Balmain focused on the Far East for its fall-winter collection, using bejewelled couture and Oriental wrapped silks to embellish the Paris house's ready-to-wear display. Waists were cinched to within an inch of life with gold and black belts, and glistening regal amulets. High-waisted harem pants in geometric pattern silk lame defined the aesthetic. The 27-year-old designer Olivier Rousteing has indeed come a long way in stamping the house with his youthful exuberance.
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Dries Van Noten thinks fashion is far too serious. That's why the fall-winter 2013-14 show saw the Belgian designer explore his usual menswear-womenswear tailoring via the frivolity of ballroom dancing, feathers and the dancing two-some Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. In Van Noten's world, like in Hollywood, there's no man without the woman, no Ginger without Fred.
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