Whitebait season is open. Shoals of fish are riding the tides, striving upstream, drawing fishers to where rivers meet the sea. That perennial cycle begins.
But our cherished tradition of catching a feed will look a little different this year. After many months of consultation attracting 11,500 submissions and a swell of public interest, we have finally arrived at the Government's new whitebaiting rules.
Changes include restrictions on gear placement and size, upstream limits and more whitebait refuges. From next year we'll see a shorter whitebaiting season. Community programmes will work to restore habitats.
Off the table are an end to commercial fishing, a ban on exports, licensing and catch limits. Change is long overdue, but do these new rules go far enough?
Whitebaiting regulations have not changed since the 1990s. Until this week, we've been treating the fishery as if it casts back to more bountiful days. Runs were bigger in decades past. Back in time still, early settlers' journals mention shoals so thick they darkened the water; excess whitebait used as garden manure or fed to hens until their eggs developed a fishy taste. Despite fluctuating catches from season to season, most whitebaiters agree that catches have declined over time.