Surfing: Chasing the big waves

Daniel Kereopa catches a big one at Piha. Picture / Herald file

Raglan surfer Daniel Kereopa has achieved about everything you can in the sport in New Zealand, bar winning the national title.

It used to be a burning desire, but with the 2005 competition starting at Opunake tomorrow, Kereopa is taking a relaxed approach and hoping this change of tactic will work for him.

The 26-year-old took time out from competition last year to chase big waves, relax and to work out what he wanted to do with his life.

Hawaii is his one-word answer.

"I want to try and ride the biggest, gnarliest waves that I can."

So he's heading back to the central Pacific island chain because that's where they consistently get big waves. He'd like to pursue other big-wave spots round the world - Todos Santos in Mexico and Mavericks in northern California - but reckons there are also opportunities on the coasts of New Zealand and Australia.

Kereopa has friends in Hawaii and likes the lifestyle. He competes in normal surf contests as well as the big-wave events, and some sponsorship and part-time jobs in between allow him to pursue a great lifestyle.

The attraction in big-wave riding is the focus and commitment it requires, Kereopa says.

Sure, the fear is a big buzz. The speed sensation is incredible. The danger gets the adrenaline pumping.

His best is about the 15m mark.

"You have to be so on to it to surf waves that big."

Papatowai, at the northern end of the Catlins coast in South Otago, has been a revelation to him and others, thanks to an annual big-wave contest that started in the mid-1990s.

After initial forays to King Island in Foveaux Strait and other beaches that catch the swells from the Southern Ocean, Papatowai has taken over as New Zealand's premier big-wave location.

In September, Kereopa and others rode waves estimated at 13m, paddling in rather than taking the safer tow-in method. Kereopa describes it as "a nice wave, a good start to the season".

It was 5C in the water and hovering between minus one and zero in air temperature. Squalls brought hail and snow.

"You couldn't paddle into the waves when it was hailing - it hurt - so we just had to wait for it to pass."

The surfers could have towed in behind jetskis, as in Hawaii, but paddling into the bigger ones was not possible - it would have left them unable to keep ahead of the break.

"You couldn't tell how big they were. On our video, you can see guys diving off 10ft boards as the waves roll over them. It looks like the waves are 60 to 80ft [18.3-24.4m].

"That's the exciting thing. There are still bigger waves out there to be ridden and Papatowai can hold it."

LAST month in Raglan was a big let-down. The hard southerlies mean full wetsuits have been the norm, rather than board shorts as summer should be. And the waves have been blown out.

In Gisborne, the Quinn brothers - Maz, 28, who is three-time winner and defending national champion, and Jay, 21 - have spent the year competing internationally. They have enjoyed better conditions in the warm-up to the Taranaki event, which is the first of four on the national pro-tour.

There were 20 days of consecutive, big surf with off-shore winds in Gisborne through to December 23 and the brothers got their fill of it, though Jay returned from Australia mid-month.

He will have to rely on the Association of Surfing Professionals granting him a wildcard entry to World Qualifying Circuit events next year after he fell out of the top 200, but the association should look kindly on him because a burglary finished off his poor season.

Quinn's boards and passport were stolen when he was in San Francisco on the way to the last contest in Brazil, where he needed only to win his first heat to stay in 197th place.

He missed the event while awaiting new travel documents.

Maz Quinn is 92nd on the world rankings. If he can retain the national title he will join Alan Byrne, another four-time winner.

Wayne Parkes and Iain Buchanan have won five titles since the NZ Open began in 1963.

Blair Stewart, 2003 champ and 2004 pro-tour winner, is the other big contender.

The competition then goes to Whangamata for the Billabong Pro this month and to Raglan for the Rip Curl Pro in February. It culminates with the Lion Red Super 16, where the highest-scoring 16 from the three contests plus the best four women will compete at Piha on February 26.

Then follows the Billabong World Pro Junior contest at Raglan from March 3-6, where competitors from the United States, Brazil, South Africa, Australia and other parts should turn on the best contest surfing of the 2005 season.

Talk that a World Qualifying Circuit event would be held in New Zealand was apparently premature, with about $500,000 in sponsorship needed. Surfing NZ hopes to host an event next year.

Surf events

January 8-15: Nationals, Opunake, Taranaki

January 29-30: Billabong Pro, Whangamata

February 18: Rip Curl Pro, Raglan

February 26: Lion Red Super 16, Piha

March 3-6: Billabong World Pro Juniors, Raglan