Salvation stretches like a strip mall along the length of Buckland Rd as it snakes its way through Auckland's south. There is no shortage of venues in which to find forgiveness along this length of bitumen, and throughout this suburb. This is Papatoetoe, where the prayers of Pasifika are made, if not always answered.
It is early evening, a Saturday. Kids are playing on the footpaths outside the churches, school campuses and driveways of their homes, their smiles outshining the headlights on the cars that drive past. Two young Mormons on mission are making their way back to Temple. If colour were not a barrier to perception, the milieu would be typically suburban, typically Auckland.
This is not a typical evening however, for tonight the Papatoetoe Rugby Football Club is celebrating its 70th jubilee. The rugby here had begun once the war was over, played on farm paddocks. There was a trough for washing, and they had to clear the dung off the field before games could commence. You could say the fans hit the shit before the shit hit the fan.
Rugby grew. The town grew. The Queen drove through in 1953. Papatoetoe High School was built a few years later, and Aorere College a few years after that. Women sewed bras and knickers for Berlei and Bendon. Prime Minister Keith Holyoake opened the Nestle Factory, and the door to the increased industrialisation of the region. Mayor Bob White opened the Kentucky Fried Chicken. The Papatoetoe Rugby Football Club adopted the town slogan as its own: Kia Mahi Tahi - let us pull together, and a wooden hall was built where once stood a small canvas hut.
Tonight, the celebrations are being held in the Kolmar Centre, Papatoetoe's all-purpose home of sport, rather than that old, leaky club house down the path. That is set for demolition soon; its doors are boarded over, tagged. Some of the old-timers don't like that they have to share their new digs with hockey, football and netball, but they'll come around.