Sailing in the wake of early navigators

By Nick Perry

Surprised sailors in the Hauraki Gulf could be forgiven for thinking they had travelled back in time 1000 years yesterday, as the voyaging canoe Te Au O Tonga came into sight at first light.

The double-hulled craft, manned mainly by landlubbers, set sail from Rarotonga two weeks ago to ensure that the America's Cup regatta will be launched with a distinctly Pacific feel next week.

The vessel is believed to be a replica of the first canoes to land on the uninhabited shores of New Zealand.

Two women, two former Cook Island Solicitors-General and two New Zealanders were among the crew of 15. The trip was educational for most, with 12 having little or no sailing experience.

Teresa Wells, of Gisborne, said she had dreamed of orange juice and making a visit to "those two big golden arches [McDonald's]" when she got ashore. Being on a mainly male-crewed vessel had been "no sweat."

Jason Poata, of Mt Maunganui, said he just wanted a hot bath. A washing machine would make a change from tossing his dirty clothes in an onion sack and letting the sea tumble them.

He learned a lot from the trip. "I've always been interested in our heritage, and how we got here. I want to bring back what I have learned and teach people here."

Captain Paiau Pirake had hoped to make the voyage in 10 days, but a storm and patches of calm weather extended that to 15.

For almost two days the crew sat out a southerly with all the gear lashed down and 6m swells breaking against the bow.

"When you were trying to sleep it sounded like World War One outside," Mr Poata said.

But the highlights, which included seeing a humpback whale and eating fresh, raw tuna in a coconut and lemon sauce, outweighed the difficult moments.

The hardwood boat was designed and built by former Cook Island Prime Minister Sir Tom Davis five years ago, at a cost of $200,000.

The traditional design had some modern features added, including satellite navigation, liferafts and an inboard engine.

But the crew lived as simply as the early travellers and navigated mainly by the stars.

The crew will be greeted by Ngati Whatua at Orakei Marae this morning.

The canoe will be part of the cup's opening ceremony in the Viaduct Basin next Friday.