David Leggat: Night-time tales from Tony's taverna

HUMOUR

Fancy a slice of Athens nightlife in an area which pays homage to the ancient city? Then head straight for the Plaka district.

There, nestled among the ruins, right below the Acropolis, are a hundred cafes, bars, shops and narrow winding streets loaded with history. It's packed every night with Olympic tourists, late-night shoppers and locals enjoying a meal or romantic stroll.

And occupying pride of place in one corner is Tony's taverna. At least, that's its unofficial title, partly in honour of Tony the boss, and partly because the restaurant's name is in indecipherable Greek above the door.

Tony's menu is standard stuff - any number of variations on souvlaki, salads, pastas and baklavas. But the setting and the staff make it the ideal way to get gently plaka'd on a balmy night.

"Hey boys, come," Tony said with outstretched arms when he saw us approach.

There were no tables. No problem. One materialised and was plonked down disturbingly near the middle of the narrow cobbled street.

There was a concert taking place in the ruins, all spotlights and rich harmonies amid columns dating back to the first century.

When a 20-strong motorcade emerged from the ruins, Tony spotted a potential problem. Our table should not have been where it was. There was scope for a car versus dining table collision.

No problem. Tony stood in front, motioning the cars past with less than a metre to spare. There were some seriously full wallets in the backs of these cars but they bowed to the boss' directions.

The staff are a mix. There's the young pony-tailed waiter who spends most of his time eyeing up the women passersby; a couple of gnarled veterans; and another whose specialty seems to be banging glasses down on the tables with real feeling.

But Tony runs a tight ship.

"Anything is possible," said our waiter when asked if there was any chance of more bread.

One thing which most definitely would not be possible is skipping without paying the bill.

Tony is an amiable man, albeit with limited English. But he understands the international language of money.

If you tried a runner my bet is you wouldn't make it to the corner.

Tony and the boys have that look about them.

Not that you would want to try it in this little jewel of the old city.