World Cup blog: Week 1

An inflatable RAF Spitfire is held aloft as English fans sing the infamous Ten German Bombers song. Picture / Robin Martin

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Sunday


Munich locals were in no mood to let your correspondent miss out on the party after Germany's 4-2 victory over Costa Rica in the Cup's opening match.

While the Munich stadium - which bears a remarkable resemblance to an oversized bouncy castle - may have been sold out, the real celebrations were in the fan parks and out on the streets.

Hell, you couldn't even buy a quality beer in the stadium and this in the land of the famous brewing purity laws. Budweiser! Now just what was Fifa thinking?

Away from the stadium and fan parks thousands gathered at "grill parties" (Kiwi translation: barbecue) to watch the evening's games.

In the Sendlinger Tor quarter I gathered with a colourful mix of "Germans" from Brazil, Africa, Japan, the US and of course a handful of locals to watch the Ecuador/Poland match.

Naturally we were cheering for the underdogs and they didn't let us down.

And hey - apart from the great company there was even decent beer, including Paulaner Weissbier. Now that's better.
- - - posted 11.00am by Robin Martin


Saturday


A reader asks whether I've seen any of those inflatable Spitfires that English fans were reported to be bringing. Yes Paul, I have but no, I didn't ask him if I could have it to send home to you. He looked a bit preoccupied. Check out the picture.
- - - posted 9.00am by Robin Martin


The atmosphere in the Hauptbahnhoff's quarter immediately outside Frankfurt's main train station is unexpectedly serene. With the World Cup kickoff fast approaching, seemingly only small pockets of those most fanatical supporters of the beautiful game are in evidence.

Some, like the English pair camped outside the main entrance to the station, are still engaged in the neverending search for tickets, others are organising German sim cards for their cellphones, and still more bustle around internet cafes.

Perhaps even more surprising is that England start their campaign in this same city over the weekend. Where is the charged atmosphere? Maybe this is just the World Cup in the digital age?

But wait, there they are, a band of England supporters enjoying a beer and bratwurst. There's no singing or baiting of rival fans, but look more closely and the supporters are here all right.

Still more sit under a huge banner which reads, "Born in England, Live in England, Die in England". While begging the question what are they doing here in that case, it is strange to remark that this message would have a certain resonance with the odd German of a certain political persuasion. But, hell, they are Manchester City supporters, what can you expect?

Frankfurt, the birthplace of literary giant Goethe and the home of German democracy, is putting on a friendly face and embracing the World Cup motto, "A Time To Make Friends".

Further into town, stages have been set up for evening entertainment, and small-sided football games are under way. You can also try out your golf swing.

The staff of Bistro Lyon illustrate nicely the quandary facing many of the locals. Whom to back in the Cup? With one colleague coming from Spain, two from Italy, one from Serbia and one each from Morocco and Turkey respectively, they are struggling to find a German supporter.

Meanwhile, outside, more fans are slowly making themselves apparent. Japanese, Brazilian and supporters of Trinidad and Tobago's Soca Warriors are prominent. A West Indian band entertains at a main intersection - now that's more like it.

Paul, an England fan, questions the wisdom of paying €1200 ($2420) to see one of his country's group games.

"I don't mind paying over the odds, but that is just bloody stupid.

"I don't care who I get to see, Togo versus whoever, I don't care as long as I get to see a game," adds the ticketless traveller.

So the scene is set. The world's eyes are trained on one of the planet's great sporting events.
- - - posted 5.00am by Robin Martin


Friday


One day to go before the big kickoff and it is time to settle into base camp.

The English have hidden themselves away in the Black Forest, Sweden are enjoying the delights of Bremen in the north (a town close to my heart for reasons best kept to myself) and the US team has chosen a central city location to minimise the risk of terrorist attack.

I meanwhile find myself the guest of Frau Zopf in the sleepy town of Weinheim, 50km away from Frankfurt.

Like any side embarking on a World Cup "journey" transport links were a priority and, of course, the friendly nature of the natives. And my German "mutti" for these first few days fits the bill nicely, thanks ... fresh coffee in the moring, solid breads and cheese like only the Germans know them. Those German Kiwi connections are proving invaluable.

Weinheim is a short train and tram journey from the Frankfurt World Cup stadium, where the handful of England supporters mingling with the media contingent belie the chaos expected there on Saturday (Sunday) when their team meets Paraguay.

Outside the main train station in Frankfurt the atmosphere is also subdued. A few fans (English) again are on the search for tickets but, here at least, Brazilian, Japanese and Trinidad and Tobago supporters mingle and exchange tips on cellphone connections, internet cafes, accommodation and where to get those ever elusive tickets.

Tomorrow it's off to Munich for the opening game ... wish me luck!
- - - posted 10.45am by Robin Martin


Seen any inflatable Spitfires yet? Can you bring me one back?.... only joking...
- - - posted 10.50am by Paul


Thursday


Well, the World Cup is just a few days away and in a somewhat mad attempt to avoid being crammed into an airliner for the best part of 24 hours and the subsequent jetlag, I chose to stopover in that lovely, relaxing South East Asian city of Bangkok.

Well, at least, I can report that I've slept well and, more importantly, the Thais are going nuts for the World Cup.

Police report illegal gambling operations have scrambled across the border to Cambodia to avoid detection, and economists are predicting a huge windfall for the country as families settle in front of their televisions with billions of baht worth of prawn crackers and soft drinks. All this despite not making the cut.

Nothing unusual there I guess, but then I'm not in a position to brag being a New Zealander now am I.

Thai TV has been showing a relentless stream of World Cup warm up matches and, yes, the All Whites made it on air. Noah Hickey was featured in the Nation newspaper scrabbling to subdue some rampant Brazillian attacker in Geneva on Monday.

I'm aggrieved to report that the paper's football writer chose to describes New Zealand's heroic 4-0 loss to Brazil as a thrashing, but then quickly moved on to describe how Australia had done their best to kick Holland out of contention. So, don't worry, we didn't come out of it too badly.

Better get going, I think I hear my boarding call .... Next stop Frankfurt.


Monday


The World Cup is but a few short days away and your correspondent - on a hardened diet of pickled cabbage, pot-roasted pork and potatoes, washed down with some of Germany's finest beverages - simply can't wait to board the plane.

England's Rooney may look a goner and Michael Owen hasn't played a full match in five or so months but with the likes of Ronaldinho, Adriano, Kaka, Ronaldo and Robinho all lining up for Brazil there should be no shortage of fireworks - and that's just on the park.

In the stands, the Brazilian fans will bring their own unique Samba party to every stadium their team graces and while they are unlikely to be upstaged, the supporters of Trinidad and Tobago's Soca Warriors should at least offer some competition on the dancefloors of the host cities' nightclubs.

The English have meanwhile confiscated more than 3000 passports from known hooligans in an effort to prevent trouble at a tournament the Germans have dubbed "A Time to Make Friends". Well lets hope so, eh.

Australia offers some "local" interest for the long-suffering football fans of Oceania but before we get carried away lets see how New Zealand does in Brazil's only full international before the tournament in Geneva on June 5.

Barring an absolute thrashing it should be a wonderful experience for our boys just to share the paddock with the All Blacks of the world game.

Ten days and counting ... can't wait!