Hollyford Valley: enchanting insight into Māori & settler past.

In the stillness deep in the Fiordland wilderness, Sally Bary experienced a moment she will never forget.

It came two days into a four-day adventure along the iconic Hollyford Valley when she stopped and took a moment to soak up the grandeur of where she was.

“I felt like I was going back in time,” she says. “The scenery, ancient forests, the sheer rawness and diversity of it all and the sense of history, of being in the presence of those who’ve gone before, it took my breath away.

“I’ve been on many walks in recent years, but this one exceeded my expectations on all levels. It’ll be the benchmark for sure, I’d do it again in a heartbeat.”

Bary (71), her husband Patrick (75) and friends Sharon and Don Moss from Ballarat in Victoria, Australia, were part of a 14-strong group who in February were led along the trail by their passionate guides, Bard and Talia.

The Hollyford Wilderness Experience – owned by Ngāi Tahu Tourism - is open between mid-October and April and follows flat terrain along the river to Martins Bay on the west coast of the South Island through the remote and spectacular Hollyford Valley, an area largely untouched by human hand for thousands of years.

Accompanied by experienced guides, by day walkers traverse the valley on foot, jet boat and helicopter and at night stay in luxurious lodges - Ka Tuku and Waitai - where they enjoy private ensuite rooms, hot showers and top-notch cuisine served by the lodge hosts.

Adam Dooney, General Manager of the Hollyford Wilderness Experience (located on the northern boundary of the 1.2 million-hectare Fiordland National Park), says it is more than just a walk.

“Yes, you’ll pass through ancient forests with 1000-year-old giants such as rimu, totara and kahikatea before reaching the coast and its tenacious gardens.

“But the human history in the valley is just as incredible as the scenery,” he says. “Manuhiri (visitors) will learn about the original Ngāi Tahu people, their rich cultural heritage as well as how they lived and utilised natural resources to survive and thrive – including the plants they used and how they prepared food and medicine. They’ll also learn about the work the Hollyford Conservation Trust is doing in the area with predator control and the huge impact on the thriving bird life.

“They will hear about European history too; the triumphs and tragedies of the ill-fated Jamestown, the legend of Davy Gunn, the cattle farmer who began guiding tourists through the valley from 1926 until his death by drowning in the Hollyford River in 1955.”

Dooney says Ngāi Tahu’s tourism roots extend back to when its ancestors were guides for many of the first European explorers: “Now tourism allows us to extend to today’s visitors our manaakitanga (hospitality) and provide rich experiences in our natural environment for generations to come.”

The Barys, who live in retirement at Whangapoua on the Coromandel Peninsula, say it is this hospitality which impressed them as much as the walk itself.

“Everything is catered for. The lodges are very comfortable and ‘pretty up there’ but are not overly showy; they fit very well with the environment they are in,” Sally says. “The food was delightful and we were fed constantly.

“Our guides were amazing. Their knowledge of the plant life, topography and history was captivating; it really felt like they were living it. The trail was not hilly and very doable for anyone with moderate fitness.”

She says learning something of the history of the area made her realise what it must have been like for Māori, the conditions they faced and how extraordinarily tough it would have been for early European settlers: “It made me feel very small, but also lucky to be there and to appreciate the opportunity to see the extraordinary beauty of the area.”

Dooney says the walking season runs from October through April with maximum groups of 16 people; bookings are now open for the 2024-25 season. On day one, walkers go by private coach from Queenstown to Te Anau where they meet fellow walkers and attend a pre-departure briefing. The next day they walk for 19.5km surrounded by towering mountains and roaring waterfalls, then arrive at Ka Tuku Lodge for the evening. .

On day three, they have a short walk to Wawahi (Lake Alabaster) before a jetboat ride down a stretch of the Hollyford River, followed by a walk which takes them through towering ancient forests and out to the Martins Bay coastline and an overnight stay at Waitai Lodge.

The final day sees walkers exploring Martins Bay spit before a scenic helicopter flight to Milford Sound. From there a coach takes them back to Queenstown.

Some interesting facts include:

• Pounamu was found mostly on the West Coast of the South Island and was an important resource for Māori. It was taken from the west coast to the east coast. The routes taken were known as Pounamu Trails and the Hollyford trail is a segment of one of those.
• Hollyford Lodges have undergone extensive renovations with the addition of personal ensuites for all guests, an internal refit of Ka Tuku Lodge, and the installation of solar power systems at both lodges.
• The bird life is as impressive as the forest itself. Hollyford Wilderness Experience supports the Hollyford Conservation Trust in a project of intensive predator control across 12,000 hectares in the Martins Bay area surrounding Waitai Lodge. This project has seen outstanding growth in bird numbers since its inception 10 years ago, and the dawn chorus is the proof of success that needs to be heard to be believed.

For more information and your chance to win a double pass to the Hollyford Wilderness Experience: hollyfordtrack.com/competition