Onsen
Onsen is the Japanese word for naturally occurring hot springs or spas. There are over 27,000 natural onsen in Japan and over 3,000 hot spring resorts. The Japanese use onsen for relaxation, for their mineral health properties and also to socialise. Onsen bathing dates back to ancient times and is recorded in Japanese legends and mythologies. Records indicate that samurai healed their wounds in onsen in the 12th – 17th centuries, and the practice spread to the general public in the Edo period (17th – 19th centuries). Naturally occurring geothermal energy heats the hot springs, and temperatures range from nearly 100˚C to as cool as 20˚C. One of the reasons there are so many in Japan is because of the number of volcanoes on the islands; many of the springs come from heated groundwater close to volcanoes.
Ryokan
Ryokan are Japanese inns, some of which are centuries old; they give visitors to Japan a chance to immerse themselves in Japanese culture and tradition. For a very traditional ryokan experience, swap your normal clothes for yukata (Japanese style robes), sleep on a futon mattress on the floor, eat a kaiseki multi-course dinner and sample a Japanese breakfast typically consisting of miso soup, rice, grilled fish and pickles. Ryokan are usually smaller than a hotel, family-owned and run and attached to an onsen. The oldest known ryokan is the Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan, which dates back to 705AD. It is located 130km west of Tokyo in Yamanashi Prefecture at the foot of the South ˚Japanese Alps and you can still stay in it today. Stylistically ryokan are minimalistic and calming – the perfect countryside retreat and contrast to Japan's fast-paced cities.
Beppu, Oita Prefecture
Beppu is one of Japan's most famous spa towns and is home to over 2,200 onsen. The resort town is situated between Beppu Bay and volcanic mountains on Japan's southern-most main island, Kyushu. As well as hot steam baths, there are also mud and sand baths (you get buried under volcanic sand for fifteen minutes before washing it off), 'hells' which are vibrantly coloured thermal pools for viewing rather than bathing in and plenty of steamed food, including eggs, seafood and dumplings.
Rules to Remember
Japanese bathers disrobe completely before entering public onsen; wearing swimsuits is not generally allowed. You should clean your body before entering the bath, making sure to rinse thoroughly so as to not get any soap in the water. There are usually private baths available if you are not comfortable with public nudity or if you have tattoos (these are generally seen as taboo in Japan). Onsen are also seen as a quiet place of restrained calm: jumping, swimming, splashing and shouting are also frowned upon.
Takegawara Onsen
This onsen located just a 10 minute walk from JR Beppu station dates back to 1879 and has a beautiful, traditional façade. The facility offers sunayu , a special type of sand sauna. Guests wearing yukata lie down and are covered up to the neck by wet sand warmed by the hot springs for around 10 minutes, before rinsing it all off. Traditional hot springs are also available here and the water temperature is hotter than normal baths.
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For more information about travelling in Japan, visit jnto.org.au