Autumn perfect time to visit little-known gem of the Hauraki Gulf.
A wild offshore island glistening with gems just like its night sky - there’s a lot about Aotea Great Barrier Island that many Aucklanders, a mere 90km away, don’t know, let alone those from further afield.
“The island gained international Dark Sky Sanctuary status in 2017, as no streetlights and many of the 1000 permanent residents relying on solar power means there’s little light pollution – and the autumn shoulder season is a perfect time to make a first or a repeat visit”, says Ben Rogers, Brand Manager with SeaLink, which operates a regular car ferry service from downtown Auckland.
“Aotea offers peace and tranquillity. A place to be fully present and disconnect,” he says. One attraction that maintains regular excitement are the dolphins (and sometimes whales) that play round the ferry during the scenic route. Skippers will always put in the extra effort so passengers can get a better look.
April, May and June are a nice time to visit as, with this summer’s expected tail, there’s likely to be settled weather but cooler temperatures for tramping. The island boasts many well-maintained tracks for walkers of all abilities. The more experienced may want to tackle Hirakimata (Mount Hobson) at over 600m, while a family favourite is the short, mainly flat, boardwalk track to Kaitoke hot springs with the reward of a relaxing soak at the end.
Autumn skies are some of the clearest of the year at this Dark Sky Sanctuary – public or private land with that scientifically-judged, exceptional or distinguished quality of starry nights and a nocturnal environment protected for its scientific, natural or educational value, its cultural heritage and/or public enjoyment.
There’s a lot to be seen with the naked eye but, for real exploration of the skies, bring binoculars, a telescope (or see if your accommodation has one) or, for the best experience, book a stargazing tour with the Good Heavens team.
Deb Kilgallon, a stargazing guide and joint owner of Good Heavens, has been on the island for nine years and loves giving visitors the wow factor: “At this time of year you’ve got this beautiful, big sweep of the Milky Way right above your head, as well as some of the great constellations to look at.”
Her tour takes up to two hours, is custom-made for each client and might involve something to eat with a hot chocolate or mulled wine, sitting under a blanket on Medlands Beach, warmed by a hot water bottle if it’s a chilly night.
Rogers says the trip over is a comfortable one – there’s an onboard café for a light snack or refreshments and, if the weather allows, passenger can sit on the bow of the boat for the best view as the island gets close.
Travelling to The Barrier via SeaLink also gives you flexibility to bring your own car and explore an island larger than Waiheke without regular public transport. Having your own transport means you begin your journey straight off the ferry and open up a greater choice of accommodation options, ranging from motels through to boutique homes or baches for rent, right through to Department of Conservation tramping huts or campgrounds.
“Having a car broadens your choice of where to eat as there are a lot of cool little spots,” he says. “There’s even a Thai restaurant and an Irish pub.”
My Fat Puku café and pizzeria at Claris is owned by Julie and Brett Walford, who live right next door in their caravan. For Julie, it’s a connection back to when she was a girl and relatives had property on the island.
“We used to come over for holidays and it was really great, just back to nature, spending time by the water,” she says.
The days of the old manual telephone exchange she remembers are long gone with good mobile phone coverage but so much about the untouched surroundings remain the same.
Andi Ross, the head distiller and founder of Island Gin, has been making the spirit since 2016, sold in a distinctive bottle with the design based on kina, or sea urchin, found in large numbers around the island. She sees the SeaLink trip as a way of disconnecting.
“The further away from Auckland you get, everything kind of just washes out of you and you feel relaxed.” Asked what to do on the island she’s enthusiastic about “little gems” visitors may not know about. “There’s something for everyone,” she says.
“There’s not a bad spot to Great Barrier, honestly. If you come, just enjoy, and respect it and understand not everything happens on townie time.”
For more information on the amazing things to do on Great Barrier Island see below.