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Home / Sponsored Stories

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Whakatāne District Council

A winner by the water

3 Mar, 2019 11:00 AM
NOW PLAYING • Peter Williams’ experience of Whakatane and all it has to offer.
Peter Williams’ experience of Whakatane and all it has to offer.

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Disregard Kate Sheppard, Sonja Davies, and Mabel Howard. The real pioneer of strong, independent women in this country is commemorated at Whakatane Heads and acknowledged by thousands every year on their way to White Island.

She is Wairaka, the daughter of Toroa, the captain of the Mataatua waka which arrived in the area around 600 years ago.

Legend has it that while the men of Ngati Awa went ashore leaving women and children in the waka, the strong tide dragged them out to sea. Women, because of tapu, were forbidden to handle the waka.

But realising the danger they were in, Wairaka took control and brought the waka to shore crying from the bow "Kia Whakatane au i ahau" – I will act the part of a man.

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And so this delightful town of just under 20,000 in the eastern Bay of Plenty, usually the sunniest in the country each year, took its name from a young woman of the water. Centuries later, it might be said that two of its most famous identities are best recognised for their exploits on the water.

Port Ohope, Whakatane.
Port Ohope, Whakatane.

Warren Cole was part of New Zealand's first rowing gold medal winning crew at Mexico City in 1968. The picturesque Warren Cole Walk and Cycleway from the town centre along the banks of the Whakatane River is named in his honour.

Lisa Carrington, raised in the Whakatane suburb of Ohope Beach is, after two Olympic gold medals and multiple World Championships in a kayak, one of the all time greats of New Zealand sport. The locals love her so much, the little roadway leading to the Ohope Beach Surf Club, where she learned her sport, is now named Lisa Carrington Lane.

Not surprisingly then, our weekend in Whakatane and Ohope Beach was dominated by activities on or near the water. We started with drinks and dinner on Friday night at the stunning Fisherman's Wharf restaurant, where the setting sun casts a brilliant light and warmth onto one of the all time great dining and drinking locations on the shores of Ohiwa Harbour at Port Ohope.

Operated by the delightful Tom McGuire, yet another transplanted Aucklander in the Bay of Plenty, the food is big city quality and the experience so popular, every table was taken.

The weekend's first excursion was on the launch "Phoenix" out to Whakaari or White Island, past Wairaka as you leave town. The eponymously named White Island Tours is these days operated by Ngati Awa but the company was founded and run for nearly thirty years by Peter and Jenny Tait. Their history of the remote volcano – 49 kilometres off shore – is required reading on the launch, although if you have a questionable constitution you'd best wait till the calm of Crater Bay!

Our skipper Dave Plews, a local with 30 years in commercial fishing before he went into tourism, doubled as the excellent tour guide for the walk up to the main crater. It's an eerie experience. You feel like you're on the set of a science fiction movie.

On the way back to the boat, try cleaning your ten cent piece, just by putting it in one of the sulphur ridden streams for a couple of minutes.

Active volcano at White Island.
Active volcano at White Island.

The White Island tour has you back at Whakatane wharf by 3pm, in time for a tour of Ohiwa Harbour by kayak with the owner of KG's Kayaks, Kenny McCracken.

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The genial Scotsman, an ex teacher, will have you paddling like Ian Ferguson and Lisa Carrington in no time. Ohiwa Harbour is shallow and easy to navigate. Kenny even provides coffee and muffins on the other side.

We had dinner on Saturday night at Cadera, a Mexican place where the burritos and tacos go down well with the Corona.

Sunday morning started with a spectacular breakfast at Moxi, certainly the only cafe in Ohope built out of a container. Vine tomatoes on sourdough with pickled beetroot and goats' cheese is recommended.

Fortunately there's a good walk nearby to work off your breakfast. From the end of West End Beach to Otarawairere Bay is about 15 minutes, but it's a very good up and down both ways, with sensational views of the entire Ohope Beach at the top.

Not that we had time for a full round, but the town has two very fine golf courses too. Ohope International is a links gem at the end of the Ohiwa Spit, while Whakatane Golf Club is over the other side of town, next to the airport. Both have beautifully draining sandy soils and smooth true greens. No golfer asks for much more.

Then if you finish your weekend at Whakatane GC, it's just a few hundred metres to the airport and your Air Chathams flight back to Auckland. If you've booked early enough, you'll have paid only $89 to get home.

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