Wine is big business in Marlborough, but it's still home to artisan producers making wines outside the mainstream. Last month I travelled to the region to visit a band of exciting smaller players calling themselves "Mana", who have united in their commitment to the region, organic practices and making wines on their own premises.
Huia
"Mana is open to anyone who is organic and has their own winery," explains Claire Allan, who whisks me from Blenheim airport to take me through the pure, elegant wines she makes with husband Mike at their small Rapaura winery. "We're a diverse group of people but with the same objectives of having great vineyards and really good wines. A huge amount is about sharing information and resources - many hands make light work!"
Herzog
Next stop is Herzog where, as on every visit, I find Hans Herzog busy in the vineyard. There he tells me about this special 11ha site on the banks of the Wairau that is warmer than most in the region and whose vast array of soils allows him to grow 27 grape varieties. Over lunch at the esteemed Herzog eatery, I try a dazzling array that spans arneis to zweigelt and includes a rare example of a successful New Zealand nebbiolo.
Seresin
At Seresin, the estate owned by cinematographer Michael Seresin, everything is farmed biodynamically. Vines and wines are managed using the cycles of the moon, while animals roam and vegetables are grown among the vines. In recent years the estate has released a growing number of gorgeous pinot noirs, which I sample with winemaker Clive Dougall. Then it's off to Seresin's Waterfall Bay home in the Marlborough Sounds, where the group mucks in to cook a delicious dinner. It's a convivial gathering that illustrates the group's collaborative philosophy and reflects the engaging and honest nature of their wines.
