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Home / New Zealand

Wine: Goodness comes in small glasses

By Jo Burzynska
NZ Herald·
6 Feb, 2014 10:30 PM4 mins to read

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Balancing Act Central Otago Pino Noir; Balancing Act Marlborough/Waipara Sauvignon Blanc; AR Guentota Old Vine Lujan de Cuyo Malbec, Argentina.

Balancing Act Central Otago Pino Noir; Balancing Act Marlborough/Waipara Sauvignon Blanc; AR Guentota Old Vine Lujan de Cuyo Malbec, Argentina.

Research continues to prove that resveratrol-rich wines help our health. But, says wine editor Jo Burzynska, only if we limit our intake.

When news of the so-called French paradox broke in the early 90s, wine lovers the world over raised a glass to the fact that their favourite drink not only was a pleasure, but apparently was good for them as well. However, two decades of research that has seen this assertion both reinforced and refuted has led to confusion over the complex relationship between wine and health.

The French paradox is the phenomenon that although the French have a diet rich in saturated fats, they have a relatively low incidence of heart disease, which was attributed to their taste for wine. According to the Harvard School of Public Health, more than 100 studies have now shown an inverse association between moderate drinking and risk of cardiovascular disease, corresponding to a 25 to 40 per cent reduction in risk.

Though some experts say the type of alcohol consumed makes little difference, other research suggests that polyphenols present in grape skins, with their antioxidant properties, could be behind the benefits.

This subject was explored at last year's WineHealth 2013 in Australia, a conference which brought together experts from around the globe to present the latest findings.

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This included a study conducted by Professor Ramon Estruch, senior consultant in the Department of Internal Medicine at Spain's University of Barcelona, which investigated the cardiovascular benefits of moderate alcohol consumption through analysing the effects of different types of alcoholic beverages.

Its results concluded that moderate consumption of wine and beer (especially red wine), seems to confer greater cardiovascular protection than spirits because of the former's polyphenolic content.

Another Spanish PREDMED study on the prevention of cardiovascular disease assessed the effects of a Mediterranean diet that included the regular moderate consumption of wine. This again connected wine with a consistent decrease in risk factors, but also discovered that when more than 14 drinks a week were consumed, its subjects' blood pressure significantly increased along with the risk of heart problems.

There appears to be a definite tipping point where wine drinking ceases to be beneficial and starts becoming associated with the diseases connected with heavy regular drinking, such as cardiovascular issues and a number of cancers.

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There is also increasing evidence that even one or two alcoholic drinks a day may increase this risk of breast cancer - although a growing body of research suggests adequate daily intake of folate helps mitigate this risk.

The exact point when drinking becomes detrimental is unclear. However, the current guidelines laid down by New Zealand's Health Promotion Agency to reduce long-term health risks associated with alcohol is that women should drink no more than two standard drinks a day - a standard drink is roughly a 100ml glass of wine - and no more than 10 a week, while men should consume no more than three standard drinks a day and no more than 15 a week. The agency also suggests having at least two alcohol-free days a week.

Heavy drinking remains a major cause of preventable death in many countries, but moderate consumption of polyphenol-rich wine does seem to be good for the heart. Whether wine can be viewed as a tonic or a poison would appear to be all down to the dose.

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Balancing Act Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011 $24.99

Resveratrol is a polyphenol present in grapes. Australian GP, Dr Philip Norrie is so convinced of its benefits to health that he's created the Balancing Act range of "Resveratrol Enhanced Wines". In these, extra resveratrol is added to make the levels found in Balancing Act equivalent to 40 glasses of normal wine. His pinot is light-bodied with subtle cherry fruit, a savoury undertone and a hint of herb. From southernwines.co.nz.


Balancing Act Marlborough/Waipara Sauvignon Blanc 2012 $19.99

As most of a grape's polyphenols reside in its skin, which is removed early in the white wine-making process, white wines have considerably lower levels of resveratrol than reds. However, in this example, resveratrol levels are boosted to 75mg per bottle compared with 1-2mg in a standard white. Resveratrol aside, this is an attractive sauvignon with notes of passionfruit, punchy lime and fresh herb. From southernwines.co.nz.


AR Guentota Old Vine Lujan de Cuyo Malbec, Argentina 2010 $33

Some of the most polyphenol-rich wines are those made from thick-skinned varieties grown in warmer climates, with the high UV levels of high altitudes appearing to boost this further. This wine ticks all these boxes and tastes great, too, with its powerful palate of rich, ripe blackberry fruit laced with notes of roasted spice and chocolate and fresh, minerally finish. Available at Wine Direct, Village Winery, Wine Barrel, Wine Circle and Accent on Wine.

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